When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Anyone know what part# genuine Speed Bleeder brand will work on my 2000 C5? I have been telling people I've never changed my brake fluid, and my brakes are fine. Well, today I've decided to eat a LARGE crow!! I removed my M/C reservoir cap, and OMG....Can't believe my eyes!!! Haven't had that cap off in years. My fluid looks like someone filled the reservoir with black ink!!! I can't in good conscience continue to keep that crap brake fluid. Diesel engine motor oil is no blacker than my brake fluid. I hope nothing is damaged, but if it is, I've got nobody to blame but myself. Thanks, guys, I appreciate any help you can give........
I installed this set. They are pretty damn handy and make it an easy one man job - I had to bleed them again after installing my motor this summer, and it is honestly a 15 minute job to do all 4 corners.
Their parts finder at SpeedBleeder is rather odd. Below is the 2000 Corvette info. But from there you have to take the part numbers shown and do a specific SpeedBleeder search.
The 9407K Speed Bleeder is an SB1010S or SB1010S-SS
I'll leave the other searches as an exercise for the reader.
Probably better off to either send them and inquiry or go with the Summit kit someone posted above.
Screenshot from SpeedBleeder site parts finder.
Last edited by Dads2kconvertible; Jan 4, 2023 at 09:56 AM.
Reason: lol, an earthlink email address. Haven't seen one of those in a decade or more.
I installed this set. They are pretty damn handy and make it an easy one man job - I had to bleed them again after installing my motor this summer, and it is honestly a 15 minute job to do all 4 corners.
I removed my M/C reservoir cap, and OMG....Can't believe my eyes!!! Haven't had that cap off in years. My fluid looks like someone filled the reservoir with black ink!!!
Pull the clutch master cylinder cover and look in that one too. It will probably be just as black.
Lol I saw that post and was/am on your side for the most part still. I've had a few vehicles with black brake fluid and like you, have never had an issue. They were daily drivers, not track cars of course. With that being said, I always bleed with new fluid as part of my "bonding experience" when I buy most cars nowadays. I've never had a problem either way though.
How do these differ from the bleeders that are om the car now ? I cant seem to get all the air out of the lines on my C6Z brakes project and the abs light and service tc warnings are on
How do these differ from the bleeders that are om the car now ? I cant seem to get all the air out of the lines on my C6Z brakes project and the abs light and service tc warnings are on
Factory bleeders are open or closed by hand. Hard to do brakes by yourself unless you have a pressure pump and adapter on the master cylinder. If you crack open the factory ones and then get in the car to press the brake you will expel fluid and hopefully any trapped air, but because the bleeder is still open it will also suck trash back in since you were not there to close it. The speed bleeder has a detent ball on a spring internally which functions as a one-way valve. So you crack it open, go depress the brake pedal and the fluid and air combo will be expelled. However, once pressure is released from the pedal the spring shuts the valve to prevent bringing any junk back into the system. Or in my case once I had a line submerged in a catch bucket which had fresh fluid in it just in case.... but the bucket toppled and I sucked a lot of air back in through my factory bleeders valves.
If you use a pressurized adapter for your master you don't really need the speed bleeders since you can pressurize the system and then travel to your four corners to do the bleed using the normal screws. Just make sure you check pressure on the tank and fresh fluid in the master between each corner so you don't run dry.
If you're catching CELs for brake issues, I am going to go ahead and guess you have air in your ABS module or are low on fluid. A Tech 2 will cycle the brakes and remove air from the ABS system. Clones can be had. Also an OBD2 adapter with free software for a laptop can be had as VxDiag on amazon. Tech 2 clone products like these come in handy time to time. Or see if anyone in your local area has one you can borrow. No one has borrowed mine here in CT but I offer all the time.
Coincidentally, you can bleed the brakes with the Tech 2. Lift the car up, yank all four wheels at once, and follow the guide. I have never done this myself. I should probably give it a go at some point.
C6 Z06 brakes differ from C6 brakes.
First, a question. What year is your C5? Correct C5 bleed orders differ based on line and ABS setup such that:
1997-2000: RR,LR,RF,LF
2001-2004: RR,LF,LR,RF
And you will find that I believe most GM vehicles remain the same as 01-04 from then on. Why? The LF/RR and LR/RF are separate circuits such that if one line fails you don't lose all front or all rear brakes and can in theory safely stop the car with one rear and one front brake still functioning.
With your C6 Z06 brakes, follow the order specified by your car's year. With respect to the calipers and their two valves, I had written down to bleed the inside first and then the outside. I have the same brakes, but not installed yet and don't recall why inside then outside. My guess would be because that it the feeder side from the lines so you are clearing the line first, then the rest of the caliper itself via the outer valve.
Factory bleeders are open or closed by hand. Hard to do brakes by yourself unless you have a pressure pump and adapter on the master cylinder. If you crack open the factory ones and then get in the car to press the brake you will expel fluid and hopefully any trapped air, but because the bleeder is still open it will also suck trash back in since you were not there to close it. The speed bleeder has a detent ball on a spring internally which functions as a one-way valve. So you crack it open, go depress the brake pedal and the fluid and air combo will be expelled. However, once pressure is released from the pedal the spring shuts the valve to prevent bringing any junk back into the system. Or in my case once I had a line submerged in a catch bucket which had fresh fluid in it just in case.... but the bucket toppled and I sucked a lot of air back in through my factory bleeders valves.
If you use a pressurized adapter for your master you don't really need the speed bleeders since you can pressurize the system and then travel to your four corners to do the bleed using the normal screws. Just make sure you check pressure on the tank and fresh fluid in the master between each corner so you don't run dry.
If you're catching CELs for brake issues, I am going to go ahead and guess you have air in your ABS module or are low on fluid. A Tech 2 will cycle the brakes and remove air from the ABS system. Clones can be had. Also an OBD2 adapter with free software for a laptop can be had as VxDiag on amazon. Tech 2 clone products like these come in handy time to time. Or see if anyone in your local area has one you can borrow. No one has borrowed mine here in CT but I offer all the time.
Coincidentally, you can bleed the brakes with the Tech 2. Lift the car up, yank all four wheels at once, and follow the guide. I have never done this myself. I should probably give it a go at some point.
C6 Z06 brakes differ from C6 brakes.
First, a question. What year is your C5? Correct C5 bleed orders differ based on line and ABS setup such that:
1997-2000: RR,LR,RF,LF
2001-2004: RR,LF,LR,RF
And you will find that I believe most GM vehicles remain the same as 01-04 from then on. Why? The LF/RR and LR/RF are separate circuits such that if one line fails you don't lose all front or all rear brakes and can in theory safely stop the car with one rear and one front brake still functioning.
With your C6 Z06 brakes, follow the order specified by your car's year. With respect to the calipers and their two valves, I had written down to bleed the inside first and then the outside. I have the same brakes, but not installed yet and don't recall why inside then outside. My guess would be because that it the feeder side from the lines so you are clearing the line first, then the rest of the caliper itself via the outer valve.
Cheers!
wow excellent information. Thank you so much. I'm definitely going to invest in a pressure bleeder.
Speed Bleeder brand part#.......
