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WOW !!...this is your first post after 20 years ??...lucky you !!...OK, so if this a "crank no start" you'll have to see if you are getting fuel, spark and air...is this something you just want advise on what it "may" be if you are taking the car to a shop or something you want to try and diagnose yourself ??...first thing is always check for any stored codes.
Display is showing Reduced engine power and service traction control. they will not clear when I hit the reset button they come right back on the display.
My scan tool is giving me a code of P0601 but with engine not running.
This is what I am doing.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
It's not responding?
Any thoughts
Thanks
Bob
Last edited by Casinobob; Jan 7, 2023 at 05:06 PM.
Bob, you can get codes whether the engine is running or not…P0601 is a PCM code which is comparable to a computers “blue screen of death” !!…this is usually a PCM change…OUCH !!…if you have a voltmeter unplug the MAF sensor and see if you have 5 volts on the yellow wire with the ignition on…the PCM supplies 5 volts to many sensors on the car and I’m curious if it’s not putting out 5 volts and is basically “dead”…the MAF is an easy sensor to get to…below is Alldata info for the P0601.
Seeing the 5 volt reference is at 6.5 volts may be due to the PCM ground being "elevated"...if you were to read 1.5 volts on the PCM ground you should see the 5 volt reference raised 1.5 volts to 6.5...there are 4 PCM grounds and the PCM ground is above the starter co located with the battery negative cable...the 0651 may be because of the dead battery but since you can't read codes (may be a communication error too) and erase them I'd disconnect both battery cables wait 30 minutes and then touch the cables together and reconnect the cables..this should erase the codes...if the car was mine I'd check the 3 power circuits and grounds to the PCM before condemning it...this is maybe something you would want a shop to do...you can check fuses 16 and 23 in the underhood fusebox and make sure they are not blown...is your check engine light on BTW ??...if you would have caught me 2 years before moving to Florida from Monmouth County I may have been able to help you out...LOL !!!
The check engine light is on.
Radio works, windows and doors work.
Dash cluster works and all gauges work when i put the key to the start position.
I will check fuses tomorrow.
I was able finally to get into OBD. and I will write down the codes.
What modules would be the most helpful?
Should I clear the codes as I go through them.
Back to you tomorrow.
If it's just the P0601 DTC you have you should concentrate on the PCM...you can try clearing the code and see if it may start and possible set that DTC again...calling a bad PCM is hard especially if they are expensive or hard to get...that's why I mentioned checking the power and grounds at the PCM...if you can't get under the car or to the PCM it may be best to take it to a professional...video below to get an idea of where the PCM is located and how to get to it...watch it from 12:20 minute mark.
As soon as I clear the PCM P0601 the code returns.
Guess I have to find a good repair person. Any you know in South Jersey?
At 72 years old don't think I can do this job.
72 ??...down here in Southwest Florida as a Corvette owner you'd be considered a "spring chicken"...LOL !!!...OK, so the BCM can't communicate with the PCM so that in itself will cause the car not to start and it can't communicate with the EBCM either...the P1518 may play into this P0601...the TAC module in what causes that code to set is either being shorted to ignition power feed or to ground OR battery voltage may have been low...I see you said you had a dead battery...don't know if it was low trying to start the car...I would say try and disconnect the TAC module but instead you can try to remove fuse 17 (THROT CONT) in the underhood fuse box and see if the P0601 comes back again if you can clear it...seeing that elevated 5 volts is making me think there may be something with a ground...I'm wondering if the TAC module which sits above the PCM is F-ing things up with the PCM...you can try Conte's Corvettes in Vineland but I don't know how good they are with diagnostics and electrical...most "Corvette specialty shops" are parts changers just like dealerships and general repair shops but they only change parts on Corvettes...call them and see if they can handle this...if you want I can call them after you do and explain my thoughts…actually auto electric shops are better prepared for this kind of work....this may be a bad TAC module and PCM !!
I will pull the fuse and try that.
I will let you know
Before this all started I did try several times to start the car. It was slowly turning over. I thought it was going to start, then I just got the clicking noise. Not turning over at all.
I charged up the battery then tried to start, this stuff happened.
Last week i drove my baby twice with no problem. We were having great weather for January.
I pulled the fuse 17.
Cleared the codes.
Code came back within seconds P0601.
Going to buy a new battery over the weekend.
I guess there is no way to by pass the computer(s) so I can drive to repair shop.
I do know of a local shop that did auto electrical a few years ago.
I will be back to you, if this does not work out.
If there is anything you can think of please let me know.
I thank you for all your help.
Bob
My baby is home! cost $ 2026.60 No codes, PCM replaced part cost $1650.00. Running great.
I did find a used one on ebay for $350.00 but i didn't want to take a chance that it might not work and would have to have it re-flashed.
Thank for all the help..