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I am about to replace original shocks on my 2004 I bought new with Bilstein HDs. Wonderful car! 78,000 trouble free miles except for fuel gauge which I have learned to live without.
(I just put in new seat foam in drivers side bottom which is truly an improvement and highly recommend.)
The lower rear shock 24mm bolt is the subject. I have read the current view for torque is 107 ft/lb rather than 162 and was wondering what spec y'all used. Also, have any of y'all replaced the nut and bolt or just reuse the old ones?
The lower rear shock 24mm bolt is the subject. I have read the current view for torque is 107 ft/lb rather than 162 and was wondering what spec y'all used. Also, have any of y'all replaced the nut and bolt or just reuse the old ones?
The OE specs specs call for 162lb and to not reuse the bolts and nuts. Probably $2-3 at the hardware store for a new bolt/nut so probably worth it.
When I had my 99 coupe I attempted to torque a new bolt to 162 lbs and it broke.
Yes, I read a thread of around 2015 wherein there was a notice to change the spec to 107. Vetteman Jack commented there. Apparently lots of bolts were breaking at that spec. I was hoping for any update available from the forum on this issue.
Try buying the proper size stainless steel bolt at a marine parts shop. A friend that is into mega boating and racing said stainless steel bolts/nuts are much stronger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetteman Jack
This might help you out with torque numbers on various C5 parts. FYI...
There is still some controversy, but from everything I can find on the research I've done... the REAR LOWER shock bolt torque spec is WRONG on that sheet... NOT 162 ft lbs...
Bill Curlee used 100 lbs of torque for his Rear Lower shock bolts... I figured if Bill was comfortable with that so was I, so that's the one I used. Many rear lower shock bolts have been busted trying to reach the 162 ft lbs...
Copied from a GM service manual bulletin
1997 - 2005 Chevrolet Corvette 2004 - 2005 Cadillac XLR Lower Rear Shock Attaching Bolt May Break After Torqued .
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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in the PI.
Condition/Concern:
The rear shock lower attaching bolt may break when tighten to the proper torque of 162 ft lbs (220 +/- 40 N/m) after being removed for service.
.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Anytime the rear lower shock bolt is removed for service. Replace the shock attaching bolt with part number: 14048990 and Nut with part number: 11516383. The bolts are torqued to yield and are one time use only. Torque the bolt to the new torque of 107 ft lbs (145 +/- 10 N/m) as opposed to the current released torque of 162 ft lbs (220 +/- 40 N/m) in SI2000.
Note: When tighten the new bolt to factory spec, The nut must be held secure and the torque should be applied to the bolt head only.
.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
.This is the post that creates my dilemma. VERYSOON
Try buying the proper size stainless steel bolt at a marine parts shop. A friend that is into mega boating and racing said stainless steel bolts/nuts are much stronger.
If you need to replace this bolt for what every reason, just make sure it's a 10.9 rated fastener. Besides the dealership parts department, your local Fastenal store can be your best source vs. say Lowes, Home Depot or Ace Hardware.
I've always just used German torque on those bolts. Hand tight with a 1/2" drive ratchet is plenty. Reused the stock bolts I don't know how many times.
I've always just used German torque on those bolts. Hand tight with a 1/2" drive ratchet is plenty. Reused the stock bolts I don't know how many times.
Agreed, I've reused the bolt multiple times. Not like it's an M5 bolt...it's stout. Some blue locktite for good measure and give it an ugga dugga.
You just don't want the nut coming loose. The bolt is in double shear and won't go anywhere.