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So this has happened to me twice after start up. And both times within only a few minutes of having shut off the car. This last time (today), I went to the post office, parked and shut off the car, went in to get my mail, came back out and started it up. Put it in reverse to back out of the parking spot and it dies. Started it up again, put in reverse and dies again. Notice message "Remove Key, Wait Ten Seconds" so I did then started it up and it stayed running.
Not sure what I'm doing (or not doing) to cause this to happen. Pretty aggravating (and scary) when backing out in to an opening in traffic then the car dies and I have to sit there for 10 seconds before I can start it again.
Anybody else ever had this issue?
Last edited by Skooter; Feb 18, 2023 at 07:32 PM.
Reason: Spelling
LMC5 didn’t work for me even with the brown wire mod. The car already had the factory steering lock recall and I replaced the ignition switch because the keys were so worn that I could pull it out while the car was running. Battery was also new. I ended up having the fuel cut off reprogrammed to 199mph by a tuner. The factory cutoff is set to 5mph. This is why yours moves a few feet then cuts off. I still get the pull key message probably every other start, but the car will keep running. The tuner said he fixed several that had the same issue with no other fix found (including the LMC5). Probably the best $50 I will ever spend on my 98.
Last edited by John Armond; Feb 18, 2023 at 08:47 PM.
Mine's been doing great with the LMC5 and brown wire mod, then I killed the battery last week (bounced back though) and since then it's been doing the same. . . but mine's tuned out as well. Still annoying to clear that message every time, I'd just as soon tell the BCM to ignore it if I could.
The LMC5 bypasses the column lock mechanism, if the pull key message still occurs it is internal to the BCM, and nothing you do with the external wiring will correct the issue.
The LMC5 bypasses the column lock mechanism, if the pull key message still occurs it is internal to the BCM, and nothing you do with the external wiring will correct the issue.
Yeah. I contacted the LMC5 people and we walked through all the steps while I was reinstalling it after it didn’t originally work. They said occasionally they get a bad unit and offered to send me a new one. The tuner fix was the best thing I could do. Like I said, mine had the factory steering column fix with removal of the physical column lock, and I replaced the ignition switch and keys, and replaced the battery. The car was doing fine then I started getting the column lock message, even with the factory recall fix, then eventually the pull key message. That’s when I installed the LMC5 and ignition switch. The battery was less than a year old but volts were still good. With the tune I shouldn’t have to worry about any of it anymore.
This is on a 98 automatic car with 160+ on the odometer. She is my do errands with a cup of coffee car. I have some manual ones for spirited driving.
Where do you get someone to tune the shutoff from 5 to 199, a dealer? Also want to get the erratic fuel gauge reading (reprogram the PCM) #02-06-04-010A to see if it fix’s my fuel gauge problem if they still can.
Where do you get someone to tune the shutoff from 5 to 199, a dealer? Also want to get the erratic fuel gauge reading (reprogram the PCM) #02-06-04-010A to see if it fix’s my fuel gauge problem if they still can.
Any tuner shop should be able to do it. It’s just a computer thing. I gave them the keys and about 30 min later they said go around back to get my car. There was a guy in the seat closing his laptop and he said problem was fixed.