Doing the HVAC Actuator Doors
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Doing the HVAC Actuator Doors
I've had the dash off before so I'm not intimidated by the process. But, are there any secrets I should be aware of that will make the job go easier? Like how to reach that third bolt on the pass side at the back of the actuator?
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Make absolutely certain you get the later controls. Early ('97-'00) had actuators that didn't have a "stop" built in. These are still out there as NOS items. You can usually go by price, as the newer style is considerably higher in price, and the NOS ones are a lot cheaper. This was fixed in '01-up C5s. The early ones with no mechanical stop built in can easily go out of range of their useful position when calibrating. This can happen even though the actuators are functioning correctly. Just make sure the ones you install are the later style. Best of luck... .
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From: Indiana Cornfield
Make absolutely certain you get the later controls. Early ('97-'00) had actuators that didn't have a "stop" built in. These are still out there as NOS items. You can usually go by price, as the newer style is considerably higher in price, and the NOS ones are a lot cheaper. This was fixed in '01-up C5s. The early ones with no mechanical stop built in can easily go out of range of their useful position when calibrating. This can happen even though the actuators are functioning correctly. Just make sure the ones you install are the later style. Best of luck... .
I got the Dorman Products, 604-106. They were just under 80 bucks a piece. Lyle from C&S Corvettes makes this same recommendation in one of his vids. Great source for parts and knowledge. Hit them up for whatever you may need.
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I successfully changed out the actuators. I have a couple of helpful tips that I will post in a day or two. Now, question: On the driver's side, the electrical snaps right in like it's supposed to. I noticed a pigtail of a two pin connector running in that loom that wasn't connected to anything. I didn't unfasten it. What is it and do I have to have this connected for the system to work right? I'm going to search the net and search the dash for the female end of this. Will report back when I have an answer.
I thought maybe someone here would know. In the future, if you need advice on how to do the actuators on a C5, PM me. I may be able to help.
I thought maybe someone here would know. In the future, if you need advice on how to do the actuators on a C5, PM me. I may be able to help.
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Thought a long time about pulling the seats. It's a 10 minute job. Then I decided I wanted somewhere to sit while I did the fix. I need to put the dash back together. Maybe tonight. Now that I know the actuators are fixed, I'm resting easy.
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Thanks for the luck! I think I'm going to work on it today. It's a bright, sunny, beautiful day here. Perfect to ruin with some frustration. JK, I like to work on my stuff. I've been waiting for warmer weather though. I have the dash apart, now I need to change out the actuators. It's 50 something in my garage and I really don't need to drive.......yes I do. Forget that.
I got the Dorman Products, 604-106. They were just under 80 bucks a piece. Lyle from C&S Corvettes makes this same recommendation in one of his vids. Great source for parts and knowledge. Hit them up for whatever you may need.
I got the Dorman Products, 604-106. They were just under 80 bucks a piece. Lyle from C&S Corvettes makes this same recommendation in one of his vids. Great source for parts and knowledge. Hit them up for whatever you may need.
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I didn't buy the actuators from Lyle's shop. Why? I'm a dumbass. I did buy the ones that are about 80 bucks a piece though. I found the pass actuator was NOT working at all. Driver side seemed to be ok. I checked them while they were hooked to power and I was opening and closing the doors, watching the actuators work. They both worked well when I was done.
Here's a more or less cheerleading video. I show you where these things are and what you'll need to get them out. I thought this was supposed to be hard? All it takes is time. You can reach the bolts on the pass side through the glovebox and the driver's side can be accessed normally from the side with a 1/4 inch socket drive. 7/32nds socket. Deep well. Go buy one and load the boat on swivels, extensions and a nice ratchet. You owe yourself if you're about to save 1000 dollars by doing this yourself.
Here's a more or less cheerleading video. I show you where these things are and what you'll need to get them out. I thought this was supposed to be hard? All it takes is time. You can reach the bolts on the pass side through the glovebox and the driver's side can be accessed normally from the side with a 1/4 inch socket drive. 7/32nds socket. Deep well. Go buy one and load the boat on swivels, extensions and a nice ratchet. You owe yourself if you're about to save 1000 dollars by doing this yourself.
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I used Dorman **** style actuators at 80 bucks a piece. They work. I just drove the car and the automatic temperature went on heating the car correctly. I didn't know how to act. I don't know Lyle but I doubt he would sell anything less than ideal products.
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From: Indiana Cornfield
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Uh, I may be wrong here, but the only brass gears I see Dickman selling are for HEADLIGHT actuators, NOT HVAC actuators. If he does sell them, could someone please post a link to the HVAC actuators? Thank you.