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I bought a B&M 24000 since it seems proven with those running a aftermarket converter ( 3200 Vig in mine)
I’d prefer to not run inline since I have the new style QR radiator. I wouldn’t think I’d have to, but when I search no one really specified how they ran the lines.
I figured I ask and see what you all have done and make sure I didn’t need a larger setup. I’ll be honest I’m not going to spend $900 on a Dewitt’s radiator when I can upgrade to a good universal for $250-300
When my new motor is done I’ll upgrade the stock unit. Thanks
I added a nice cooler for about $120 and a cheap fan on a manual switch with my Yank3200.
I bypassed the radiator all together. No need to warm up the trans fluid to the temp of the coolant before trying to then cool it down with the cooler.
I rarely go over 200* like this. More like 180
I added a nice cooler for about $120 and a cheap fan on a manual switch with my Yank3200.
I bypassed the radiator all together. No need to warm up the trans fluid to the temp of the coolant before trying to then cool it down with the cooler.
I rarely go over 200* like this. More like 180
I figured most would just bypass.
I already have the B&M but I can always move it to another project if it doesn’t cool enough. I don’t track my car, but I run a lot of roads like the Dragon and surrounding areas.
Anyone have a list for what else’s is needed?
Since this is universal I need to confirm that two 1/4 npt to hose barb fitting on transmission side and more hose.
I’ll fab some brackets so that’s all I can think of
Anyone have a list for what else’s is needed?
Since this is universal I need to confirm that two 1/4 npt to hose barb fitting on transmission side and more hose.
I’ll fab some brackets so that’s all I can think of
Which cooler are you going with, do you have a link?
I'll take a contrarian view. And I'll even explain why.
I always plumb an external transmission cooler in the the return line to the transmission. Transmission fluid goes from the transmission to the plate cooler in the radiator. Then it comes out of the plate cooler in the radiator and usually into a thermostat bypass block (Derale 25791 or 13011). If it's over the thermostat temp, it then goes to the external cooler and comes back to the thermostat and returns to the transmission after the external cooler.
Two reasons to set it up this way.
The big reason to run through the plate cooler in the radiator is warm up. When first started, all fluids cold, when you start driving, the transmission fluid warms up quicker. Running the warmer transmission fluid through the colder water/coolant in the radiator will help the engine warm up quicker. On transmissions with a torque converter clutch, the PCM usually won't engage the TCC until the engine coolant is up to a certain threshold. The heat from the transmission going into the radiator gets you up to temperature a bit faster and stabilizes the engine coolant temperature quicker.
The Derale thermostat maintains the ATF temperature at about 180°F +/- 10°F in most applications, provided the external cooler is big enough. You really don't want the ATF temperature below 175°F at any time. It operates best between 175°F and 225°F, although when there's electronics or electrical parts inside the transmission bathed by fluid, you want to stay in the lower half of that range.
I've done dozens of coolers in many different trucks, cars, SUV's. Some were used for towing. Some were more off road setups. A few were raced, either drag or autocross. I've never had any issues with the setup that I use. I don't see where any Corvette wouldn't be served by this setup.
I'll take a contrarian view. And I'll even explain why.
I always plumb an external transmission cooler in the the return line to the transmission. Transmission fluid goes from the transmission to the plate cooler in the radiator. Then it comes out of the plate cooler in the radiator and usually into a thermostat bypass block (Derale 25791 or 13011). If it's over the thermostat temp, it then goes to the external cooler and comes back to the thermostat and returns to the transmission after the external cooler.
Two reasons to set it up this way.
The big reason to run through the plate cooler in the radiator is warm up. When first started, all fluids cold, when you start driving, the transmission fluid warms up quicker. Running the warmer transmission fluid through the colder water/coolant in the radiator will help the engine warm up quicker. On transmissions with a torque converter clutch, the PCM usually won't engage the TCC until the engine coolant is up to a certain threshold. The heat from the transmission going into the radiator gets you up to temperature a bit faster and stabilizes the engine coolant temperature quicker.
The Derale thermostat maintains the ATF temperature at about 180°F +/- 10°F in most applications, provided the external cooler is big enough. You really don't want the ATF temperature below 175°F at any time. It operates best between 175°F and 225°F, although when there's electronics or electrical parts inside the transmission bathed by fluid, you want to stay in the lower half of that range.
I've done dozens of coolers in many different trucks, cars, SUV's. Some were used for towing. Some were more off road setups. A few were raced, either drag or autocross. I've never had any issues with the setup that I use. I don't see where any Corvette wouldn't be served by this setup.
That solid advice for most cars, but I’ll explain my mindset. It’s why I think I am going to return this cooler as well.
This car will see drag strip and hammer down mountain driving. Fluid changes and or motor repairs are normally part of that life at least at the drag strip
I like two closed systems even though I admit it probably more preference than some big advantage.
To me it’s easier to work on
That all said after looking at how long the lines are and the extra cost etc. I think I might just go rear mount with a fan. After looking at the setups I think they have some advantages I like. Bigger cooler and no extra restrictions or weight up front.
As far as warm up etc that’s just not an issue . This is a weekend toy and I’m in a warm climate.
I also almost always start my car before a trip and let it warm up in park for 5-10 min.
edit
i’m going to leave what I left posted but I’m sitting looking at the car the rear mounts way too close to the exhaust and differential.
I’d really like it back there, but you would have to duct cooler air even with a fan I’d think.
Ah I’m just trying to over think things now
I added a nice cooler for about $120 and a cheap fan on a manual switch with my Yank3200.
I bypassed the radiator all together. No need to warm up the trans fluid to the temp of the coolant before trying to then cool it down with the cooler.
I rarely go over 200* like this. More like 180
That's fine....IF your aftermarket cooler has a high enough BTU rating, AND you dont drive in cooler temps, say 40°-60°. If you are in a cool climate, its best to heat the fluid up to 185°-195° first, then run thru an aftermarket cooler. Engine efficiency (horsepower AND fuel economy) will improve when the fluid is slightly thinner. I have a 3,200 Yank, and the converter won't lock up until the trans fluid reaches around 85°.
Well took a very mild cruise today and it didn’t go well with stock setup.
I didn’t plan on it but my buddy called at 11am and had facebooked a short cruise invite. Left at 1pm to go up Cesar’s head. Car came close to overheating due to the heat soak of the trans being baked.
I’m glad I’m about to have a transmission built. I hit 250deg before I could get off the one lane rd to cool off. Transmission is slipping from 2nd to 3rd now. It was already starting to so is what it is.
I guess I need to just pay the “Vette” tax on a $800 dewitts and also use the trans cooler.
I ended up calling Dewitt directly and have one on the way. I went with buy once cry once.
After investing in the built motor and what’s looking like a transmission it’s cheap insurance.
I was following that gt500 up the mountain. Was no problem till it was lol
Personally, as I recommended earlier, I'd run the fluid through the radiator first, then the cooler. This does 2 things:
1: Helps warm fluid to normal temps quicker, &
2: Radiator offers water to fluid cooling, hence extra cooling capacity. So, faster warmup, increased cooling capacity, a win-win in my way of thinking. What's not to like?
If it helps anyone, I have a B&M 70264 trans cooler, and DeWitts radiator. If I had it to do over again, I'd get a cooler with an integral fan, thermostatically controlled. Yes, they are more costly, but they can be mounted anywhere.....
Trans cooler inline with radiator or not
