Rear cradle removal question (after searching)
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 128
Likes: 22
From: Florida
Rear cradle removal question (after searching)
Hey guys I'm going to be dropping the rear cradle so I can send my diff to rpm for a refresh and gear change. I have been reading alot and watching alot of videos regarding dropping the rear cradle, but haven't seen anything about the shifter. Where is the shifter disconnected? I've always done most of my own work but the corvette platform is completely new to me.
My plan is to use my motorcycle jack under the cradle and trans jack under the TT. I'm hoping I can leave all the brake lines connected and just remove the calipers as I've seen done. I know there are several electrical connections I need to be careful with as I start slowly lowering the drivetrain. It seems like most disconnect the shocks at the top, while some do the bottom, is one better than the other?
I think I have a pretty good plan but always open for any additional advice! Thanks guys
My plan is to use my motorcycle jack under the cradle and trans jack under the TT. I'm hoping I can leave all the brake lines connected and just remove the calipers as I've seen done. I know there are several electrical connections I need to be careful with as I start slowly lowering the drivetrain. It seems like most disconnect the shocks at the top, while some do the bottom, is one better than the other?
I think I have a pretty good plan but always open for any additional advice! Thanks guys
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,678
Likes: 1,397
From: Orange County, CA
Hey guys I'm going to be dropping the rear cradle so I can send my diff to rpm for a refresh and gear change. I have been reading alot and watching alot of videos regarding dropping the rear cradle, but haven't seen anything about the shifter. Where is the shifter disconnected? I've always done most of my own work but the corvette platform is completely new to me.
My plan is to use my motorcycle jack under the cradle and trans jack under the TT. I'm hoping I can leave all the brake lines connected and just remove the calipers as I've seen done. I know there are several electrical connections I need to be careful with as I start slowly lowering the drivetrain. It seems like most disconnect the shocks at the top, while some do the bottom, is one better than the other?
IMO it's less hassle to undo the top of the shocks (2 bolts) than deal with the big lower bolt. Also the shocks hanging down may get in the way of axles and/or control arms when dealing with the cradle.
If you're only doing the rear diff, you don't need to remove the whole torque tube and trans. You could drop/lower the rear cradle, then jack up the diff/trans/torque tube, support the trans and diff separately, then unbolt the diff from the trans.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 12,414
Likes: 1,750
From: DFW TX
IMO you'd be best served to remove the shifter from inside the car: 2 Torx screws hold the shifter to the torque tube (remove completely), and 1 Torx screw secures the shifter linkage to the shifter (just loosen this screw). Then you can slide the shifter forward a tad, and pull it up and out. The linkage will stay with the trans/torque tube when you remove the rear end.
Yeah you can wiggle the brake lines around to keep them in place after removing (and supporting) the rear brake calipers.
IMO it's less hassle to undo the top of the shocks (2 bolts) than deal with the big lower bolt. Also the shocks hanging down may get in the way of axles and/or control arms when dealing with the cradle.
If you're only doing the rear diff, you don't need to remove the whole torque tube and trans. You could drop/lower the rear cradle, then jack up the diff/trans/torque tube, support the trans and diff separately, then unbolt the diff from the trans.
Yeah you can wiggle the brake lines around to keep them in place after removing (and supporting) the rear brake calipers.
IMO it's less hassle to undo the top of the shocks (2 bolts) than deal with the big lower bolt. Also the shocks hanging down may get in the way of axles and/or control arms when dealing with the cradle.
If you're only doing the rear diff, you don't need to remove the whole torque tube and trans. You could drop/lower the rear cradle, then jack up the diff/trans/torque tube, support the trans and diff separately, then unbolt the diff from the trans.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 128
Likes: 22
From: Florida
Yes sir that was my plan. Since I'm halfway there may as well check everything I can. It's a fairly fresh engine with only 7000 miles but definitely doesn't hurt to check everything out once again
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 12,414
Likes: 1,750
From: DFW TX
I'd be hesitant to yank it all apart unless you have a reason. If it ain't broke.... It's fairly easy to goober up the pilot bearing, input shaft etc. Clutch and rear main seal can be inspected from the inspection plate. At least you can see it and see if anything looks wrong.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,678
Likes: 1,397
From: Orange County, CA
I'd be hesitant to yank it all apart unless you have a reason. If it ain't broke.... It's fairly easy to goober up the pilot bearing, input shaft etc. Clutch and rear main seal can be inspected from the inspection plate. At least you can see it and see if anything looks wrong.
On the other hand, not knowing what's in your car is a big driver for some of the work I do/have done. i.e. don't have any records of clutch replacement, clutch fluid age/condition? Replace it all.
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Instructor
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: Atlanta, GA
If you dont know it's history or if it has high mileage, it can't hurt IMO. I just did the clutch on my '04 at 190k. Overall it wasn't that bad, only a few PITA / cussing moments. The bellhousing was the worst to me. I did a ton of stuff on mine though - new clutch, master cylinder, slave, remote bleeder, new fuel pumps / senders, reverse fix in the transmission, and opened up the H-Pipe to get rid of the motorboat sound. My car was out of commission for a few weeks between when my master cylinder popped and my finishing it last Sunday.
If I did just the clutch, I know I could do it now in a little over a day - faster if I wasn't so **** about things...
If I did just the clutch, I know I could do it now in a little over a day - faster if I wasn't so **** about things...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 128
Likes: 22
From: Florida
Appreciate all the feedback and pointers guys. I went ahead and just removed the diff and cradle. The car is pretty decently built. It has a McLeod rxt clutch that was put in not too long ago. New slave cylinder. New master cylinder. And the remote bleeder. The torque tube had Polly couplers installed also. The differential is actually a stage 4 RPM already. But it has 410 gears in it from when the car was at na build. It's now supercharged with 718whp. The 410s are ridiculous. So I'm sending it back to RPM to go down to a 342 and just do a refresh since it's out. I took my time today and try to learn the car a little bit.. that and having a titanium lumbar spine things don't happen as quick as they used to LOL. I just wanted to say thanks again for the pointers. Hopefully I didn't make a mistake only pulling the diff. But at least now if I have to do it again I'm a lot more familiar with that process at least!
have any of you guys figured out why they put a gazillion bolts in the torque tube plate?
have any of you guys figured out why they put a gazillion bolts in the torque tube plate?
Night Owl for life
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Bugs Bunny should'a made a left turn here
Pro
Joined: Dec 2021
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Appreciate all the feedback and pointers guys. I went ahead and just removed the diff and cradle. The car is pretty decently built. It has a McLeod rxt clutch that was put in not too long ago. New slave cylinder. New master cylinder. And the remote bleeder. The torque tube had Polly couplers installed also. The differential is actually a stage 4 RPM already. But it has 410 gears in it from when the car was at na build. It's now supercharged with 718whp. The 410s are ridiculous. So I'm sending it back to RPM to go down to a 342 and just do a refresh since it's out. I took my time today and try to learn the car a little bit.. that and having a titanium lumbar spine things don't happen as quick as they used to LOL. I just wanted to say thanks again for the pointers. Hopefully I didn't make a mistake only pulling the diff. But at least now if I have to do it again I'm a lot more familiar with that process at least!
have any of you guys figured out why they put a gazillion bolts in the torque tube plate?
have any of you guys figured out why they put a gazillion bolts in the torque tube plate?
Night Owl for life
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 24,739
Likes: 4,569
From: Bugs Bunny should'a made a left turn here
^ not a bad idea. There's lots on eBay at the moment with a wide range of prices. Here's one on the cheaper side
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-2004-C...edirect=mobile
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-2004-C...edirect=mobile
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 128
Likes: 22
From: Florida
Just a thought... since the factory 6mt rear is a 3.42, you can probably easily source a factory 3.42 rear and just keep your complete 4.10 diff, for possibly even less money than swapping the gears. Or you could sell the complete 4.10 diff for a substantial premium over the cost of a 3.42 factory diff, and you could actually come out ahead on the deal. In my mind, you're throwing away the labor cost that you already have invested in the 4.10, and it can't be used again without spending that labor cost again.
And i bought the car with this diff already done so I wouldn't be spending it again directly on the diff again.
And because I already have the stage 4 rpm will freshen it up and swap the gears for $1100 total. Didnt think that was too bad to have a new unit in the car.