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Car has been running fine, but today no starting action at all when turning the key. Thinking battery first I tried jumping the car with no change- turning the key did nothing. There is some electric working and it's enough to allow the dash to light up and to go to the DIC for codes.
I am getting current codes U1000, U1064, U1176, and U1160. This relates to loss of communication with the BCM, RFA, and LDCM. I am not a mechanic but wondered about asking for advice on the chance there is something I might check or do before heading to the local shop for help.
Thanks for any advise
Since this sounds like a communication issue with your car with those “U” codes the car may not start or if it does it can start and then stall…does the security light go off when the key is turned on ??…we tell everyone here with this issue is to open the driver door and shake that rubber boot between the door and frame…there are connections under there that get compromised so you can try that…if no luck and since you are not a mechanic I’d suggest taking it to a diagnostic or auto electric shop in your area…general repair shops and dealerships aren’t too familiar with diagnosing this…you can ask them if they are familiar with diagnosing a possible class 2 serial data bus issue…if they look at you with a quizzical look on their face go elsewhere !!…where are you located ??…I may know of someone in your area.
Appreciate the response. I guess the security light would be the blinking red light that I somewhat remember. There is no light blinking now.
The rubber boot part? I don't see anything other than what I thought was the ductwork connection to allow for air to circulate to the door vent.
I am in the Bethesda,MD. area .
I see there is a Superior Auto Service in Rockville and they do electrical repairs…you can try them…just shake that rubber boot a few times and see if it starts !!..pic is passenger side…drivers is similar.
Got it- thanks for the picture and the Superior Auto Service suggestion. Never heard of them.
I pulled out the boot conduit from the door and gave the wire a few tugs. No happy surprise, but definitely worth a try if you have heard of it working before.
Appreciate the help
Since shaking and pulling did nothing, disconnect the connector and make sure all the wire connections are tight. A heads up, doing any electrical stuff, I suggest disconnecting the negative ground from the battery.
Good News and many thanks for your comments.
Re- booting our computers can sometimes re-set whatever is an issue. So I did disconnect the neg. terminal of the battery as you mentioned and without doing anything else, car is now running.
When I reconnected the neg. terminal, the horn started blaring,- so I pulled out that fuse, got in the car, turned the key, and the engine started right up.
So the next step could be find out why that happened- or wait till it happens again and deal with it again.
At any rate, your input got me started. Thx
David from Bethesda
You are full service, thanks.
I do not see a blinking dashboard light when closing up the car. You mentioned the security light earlier. Should there be a blinking light on the dash to confirm a security system working- and that may be connected to the horn which I said went off when reconnecting the battery.
Glad I got you at a time where you could help.
Problem continues,
Got back in the car and same as before, would not start up.
Opened the hood, disconnected and reconnected the battery, car starts up.
Not sure where this leads to solving the issue, but at least it's more information to help.
When you have to disconnect and reconnect the battery in order for your car to start usually means the BCM will have to be repaired or replaced. The BCM is the silver box located in the passenger footwell area behind the toe board, the interior fuse box is beside it.
C -5 not starting
