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The factory repair manual goes into detail about making sure a replacement damper goes on the crank at exactly the same position as the factory installed damper. And that any balance weights need to be exactly moved over to the replacement damper. But can this be done when replacing with a non-OEM damper, like the ATI, or Dayco SS?
I can't say about the Dayco, but I installed an ATI on my C-5, and there's no provision to transfer the weights that the factory installs, assuming that you could accurately determine where they'd need to be placed. One thing to keep in mind, is that the extra weights are used only on the stick shift cars.
There shouldnt be any "weights" on the OEM balancer, since LS1 are internally balanced....but if it gives you piece of mind, then clock the new one the same as the old one..
There shouldnt be any "weights" on the OEM balancer, since LS1 are internally balanced....but if it gives you piece of mind, then clock the new one the same as the old one..
The GM field service manual is a good read. These engines with manuals are externally balanced at the factory weights added to the damper and flywheel. If it was my car would add the weights back to the damper in the exact location removed from. Aftermarket dampers have no provision for balance weights.
The GM field service manual is a good read. These engines with manuals are externally balanced at the factory weights added to the damper and flywheel. If it was my car would add the weights back to the damper in the exact location removed from. Aftermarket dampers have no provision for balance weights.
Thank you, that's what I had guessed was the case.
n Just saying i think there are 10' of thousands people putting on aftermarket balancers. If it was an issue i don't think these companies will be able to sell them. Just a though. I lost track on how many of friend i know changed to aftermarket. Maybe all of them got lucky but ,yes ur right there are people that had problems . But i haven't seen anybody on here with this problem.?jmo
And another thing is back then the martial and quality was better. These balaceners are not the same material and quality control these days like the other gm part hence LS7 lifters and other parts
My original balancer failed at about 30k miles. There are numerous examples of the stock balancer failing on C5's. In short, the original is not very good and I would not recommend the original for replacement.
I went with a powerbond balancer with ARP bolt. On my 6 speed car I did not try to transfer any weights and there is no provision for it on this balancer.
Pretty inexpensive replacement and it worked well.
We read about these GM balancer failing all the time, yet I have not read a post where an ATI, Summit, or PowerBond failed.
All, nearly all, of these balancers are made out two pieces of steel connected by rubber. Evidently GMs fall short in either design or material, where the aftermarket models seem to be very reliable.
The GM field service manual is a good read. These engines with manuals are externally balanced at the factory weights added to the damper and flywheel. If it was my car would add the weights back to the damper in the exact location removed from. Aftermarket dampers have no provision for balance weights.
That's ASSUMING that you get the replacement balancer in the EXACT same position that the OE balancer was located, and if there's any minute imbalance that's within the balancers themselves, that the replacement balancer is "off" by the same amount as the original one.
Please see post #5. It doesn't make any difference where the balancer is indexed!!! It is a balanced assembly! The same as your wheel/tire assembly. Clocking a balancer is like clocking your balanced wheel/tire assembly. If you remove a wheel for any reason, do you mark it so it goes back on EXACTLY where it was before, and not "off" a stud??!!! Of course not, would be the answer for 99% of us!!
We read about these GM balancer failing all the time, yet I have not read a post where an ATI, Summit, or PowerBond failed.
All, nearly all, of these balancers are made out two pieces of steel connected by rubber. Evidently GMs fall short in either design or material, where the aftermarket models seem to be very reliable.
In any case, I wish you the best…
Never had an issue with my ASP balancer, either. Fluidamper is another good balancer, though they, ATI, Innovators West, etc., are at the top of the price range...