Hi all,

I did receive an excellent/ very excellent answer in my first post.
However, if I may can I explore further some options with our "brain trust" of forum members.

Check Engine Light Check ABS Light Service ABS / Traction Control/ Active Handling on the DIC.

Code is C1225 and rarely C1225 with C1226.
Excessive front wheel speed variation.

I have no doubt that this is caused by the Goodrich steel brake line. No doubt.

I need to do something because with this error message ABS does not work. Thankfully I already needed new tires so I did not flat spot/ waste a set. (Sometimes it is just not practical to reset/ clear the code with the DIC while driving; if re-set the problem goes away...for a while).

Well, electrical gurus.....how can I sheild this sensor, wires and what everl to stop this f*****g code.

I am desprite, do I solder a ground wire to the brake line (no...would be my thoughts).

Do I wrap aluminum foil around the whole componet and wire? Around the brakes lines?

I would be disappointed if I have to pull the steel lines as a last decision point.

Would someone please offer some theroy or practical advise. Maybe even someone has the cure :).

Thank you.

P.S. Is there spell check on this forum? My spelling/ typing can suck and I apoligize in advance.

 

Before blaming it on the steel brake lines, have you check the sensor wires to make sure they have no broken insulation, a wire broken inside the insulation, connection of the connector, etc.
Measure the resistance of the sensor 850-1350ohms.
Disconnect the EBTCM harness connector and measure resistance between terminals 15 and 31. Resistance should be within 850-1350 ohms. Wiggle the wire harness, especially at the sensor to see if the circuit opens.
If all tests are ok, go to Radio Shack and purchase some shielding and wrap the wires and brake lines and see if the code resets.
One thing that leads me to believe it may not be the brake lines is that C1225 (LF sensor) sets all the time, while C1226 (RF sensor) is only intermittent. Is the routing of the right and left brake lines the same? If right and left brake lines have the same clearance to the sensors, then if the brake line is causing the problem, C1225/26 should both set. If the clearance is different, can the LF line be routed differently?
As for the spelling checker, you can add one to IE to check your spelling online by going to http://www.iespell.com/ and download the free software.
Then to perform a spell check, all you have to do is right click in this little message box, and pick "Check Spelling." I have used it for about six months with no problems.






[Modified by WhiteC5Vette, 6:24 PM 1/16/2003]

 

Routing comparision.....Great idea thank you!!!!!!

Additionally, I will do some jiggling to comfirm.

In hindsite, since my codes are setting too often, I need to focus on the wiring and not concur with the brake line concusion.

Lastly, in the interim, I went to Radio Shack plus our local area professional electronics store.

Here's some addtional info in no particular order:

1) If the code is being set by an RF frequesncy, the frequency wave is more like a sphere...engulfing the area.
2) Need to identify where the "leak" is coming from.
3) Is it the sensor in the hub?...Is it the pins in the connector?...Is it the wires leaking?
4) Could a panel be fabricated to brake up the interference from the brake lines?

The wires could be upgraded to a shielded wire with a casing that has mylar and a ground wire running with the mylar. That wire is then grounded to the chassis.

Shielding the hub is more difficult ...I need to look at it to see options.

Further the wiring could be encased in a thin stainless steel housing/ cacoon and again grounded.

We have one other member who is suffering from this problem as I, hope this repete and further "digging" is helping.

 

Are you saying you changed the brake line? If you did I've got to ask why?

 

Hello...to answer the above.

Still have Goodrich Steel lines on.

(Went from rubber OEM to the steel line to attain a firmer feeling. Yes, they are firmer. The increase in feel is not as noticable as changing to steel lines on a motorcycle.....however, I am "giving" that there is an improvement making the cost worth while).

Again, the code setting sucks, but I will find a cure and offer any findings to my/ our co-members.

 

Run 20 hard laps with OEM rubber brake lines. Notice pedal feel and total deflection. Replace brake lines with Goodridge SS. Repeat above. Big difference!

 

Sometimes I wonder with all the parts and functions of the C5 being so inadaquate that they are allowed on the road. :confused:

 

The key word there is "road" instead of track. Big difference!

 

Ken,
In my business our montra when troubleshooting is, "its gotta be simple, cause we can't fix the hard ones".

I'll do some digging in the manuals later but for now I vote for a poor connection in the sensor (hall effect) or a problem with actuator (magnet).
Lots of folks use hard lines with no issues.
I'll read up and watch this post.
Good Luck

 

Thanks Bugster (for the motto laugh too)

Going back to the second post I agree too many people are running Goodriches without what I am stating is excessive code setting on my Vert.

You all will love this.

I run Firestone Runflats, which the fronts were "toasted" and replaced last night. The code did not set at all today.

Could it possible be interferrence from the tire steel belts???? Just thinking out loud. Was a wire jiggled with the rim R&I??? Perhaps.

Additionally, I have found that the "pig tail" connector is available part # 1216-2343 so if the wires/ pins are indeed faulty I have easy replacement part availability for the hardest part of the harness...the male connector.

Will keep diligently reporting (if anyone has an interest) and I really appreciate the other sets of eyes and hands that my co-members are offering as assistance

 

When you drive the car hard and use the brakes hard, the mushy feel of the brake pedal makes it hard to modualte the brakes properly. If you don't drive the car that waythen you don't need stainless steel lines. If you do drive the car that way and are not bothered with the mushy feel--my compliments :cheers:

 

Haven't felt it at all and the ABS works it fine.

 

Kenny, I had the same problem as you but mine was real sporadic. At the time, people on the forum thought I was crazy. I got tired of the codes so I put the rubber hoses on and the problem disappeared. When I checked the stainless braiding to chassis ground, the fronts had a small ac voltage while the rears read 0 volts. I was trying to find some small flexible wire to ground the stainless braiding to the chassis but finally gave up. Could not find any in my area. I even thought of trying to wrap the sensor wires like you said and then tie both ends to chassis ground. Never did it though. I really feel grounding will solve the problem. The sensors generate a low ac signal and it would not take much to interfere with it.
Good luck!!!

 

Thanks Yellow,

I read you have been there done that.
We are both even thinking abount the grounding and sheilding.

Excellent research about the fronts having volts and the rear not.

I did not have any time this weekend to look at the situation.

Never the less, since the new front tires...no codes. Unbelievable.

The braided wire...What do you think Yellow. A short peice soldered onto the line and then onto the bracket when the line attached to the frome on the inner fender well?

Of course I still need to do some jiggling (which could be an ugly sight - joke) ....wire jiggling that is.

 

Kenny, did you have runflats on and had codes and now that you put different tires on you don't have any. I had a low ac voltage in the millivolt range on the front hoses to ground but not on the rears. never could figure out why. Didn't spend more than a couple of hours looking into it. If the stainless braid is made from 304 stainless then it will have some carbon and can be magnetized and could affect the sensors. If it is 316 stainless, it should have next to no carbon in it. As far as the ground, take a meter set on ohms scale. Put one lead to the chassis ground and touch the other lead to the front suspension parts. Should read very near 0 ohms to be a good ground. If I remember right, the front aluminum suspension was a good ground. It has been 2 years since I checked this so you better double check.
I was going to clamp a ground lead to the hose up high and go to a ground to test. I had problems finding a small copper braided ground wire that was flexible enough to try. I just gave up and put the old hoses on the front. Anything else let me know.