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I have had my 2004 for about a year and the telescopic steering has never worked. I found so info about the plugs under the driver seat but when i pulled the seat i found a blue plug with no where to plug into the seat! if i put 12 volts to the A&B pins the steering moves in and out! what am I missing! Thanks for any help!
Do you have the memory option? Are your seats the original seats? My ‘99 has the memory option and the drivers seat has two connectors. I also have a set of Sport non-memory seats which only have one connector. When I use the non-memory drivers seat, I lose the telescoping wheel function.
Looks like your driver seat was swapped out at some point that did not have the telescopic column connector (blue plug).
Attached is a doc I created for making the telescopic column work with non-C5 seats. This doc covers installing C6 or C7 seats into a C5, it starts off with a discussion on the telescopic controls.
This is not the only way to do this, you can acquire a C5 drivers seat with the blue connector in it.
Looks like your driver seat was swapped out at some point that did not have the telescopic column connector (blue plug).
Attached is a doc I created for making the telescopic column work with non-C5 seats. This doc covers installing C6 or C7 seats into a C5, it starts off with a discussion on the telescopic controls.
This is not the only way to do this, you can acquire a C5 drivers seat with the blue connector in it.
Gary
I did the seat track fix the other day and noticed that there was no blue plug on my seat. My telescopic steering wheel has never worked. I found this thread and did the fix with the 2 relays. I spliced into the large orange wire on the seat's plug for power and grounded it to a seat bolt. It worked perfectly. The telescopic steering wheel moves in and out with the switch but now my seat doesn't move. It still has power and all of the connections on either side of the plug have continuity like they are supposed to. I'm at a loss. The seat worked fine right before adding the relays. Removing the relays didn't fix the issue (I wouldn't think it would). Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this?
I did the seat track fix the other day and noticed that there was no blue plug on my seat. My telescopic steering wheel has never worked. I found this thread and did the fix with the 2 relays. I spliced into the large orange wire on the seat's plug for power and grounded it to a seat bolt. It worked perfectly. The telescopic steering wheel moves in and out with the switch but now my seat doesn't move. It still has power and all of the connections on either side of the plug have continuity like they are supposed to. I'm at a loss. The seat worked fine right before adding the relays. Removing the relays didn't fix the issue (I wouldn't think it would). Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this?
Some elements of that procedure are cringe-worthy. For future, connecting to a seat bolt is not an acceptable ground.
What type of seats do you have? Did you check fuse 4 and breaker 35 ? Is the SCM communicating on the serial buss?
Some elements of that procedure are cringe-worthy. For future, connecting to a seat bolt is not an acceptable ground.
What type of seats do you have? Did you check fuse 4 and breaker 35 ? Is the SCM communicating on the serial buss?
I got it working. A wire had broken in the seat's harness. It took a while to find it.
I'm curious what is so cringe worthy about that fix? It was fairly simple and it works.
Also why is the seat bolt not an acceptable ground? It has a reference to ground and it's not like I'm grounding an amp. There isn't much current draw on that telescoping motor.
I got it working. A wire had broken in the seat's harness. It took a while to find it.
I'm curious what is so cringe worthy about that fix? It was fairly simple and it works.
Also why is the seat bolt not an acceptable ground? It has a reference to ground and it's not like I'm grounding an amp. There isn't much current draw on that telescoping motor.
I'm legitimately asking those questions. If I'm doing something wrong, I'd like to know what and why.
What is the ground path at the seat bolt? Through the floor somehow? Tangential through the seat rail? Why guess? ....especially when you had a big fat black ground wire(grounded at G205) to tap into? I mean, you already tapped into the organge 12v feed, whats one more connection for a no-brainer ground point?
As far as the procedure, solder ferrules are bush-league, but they do appeal to the masses. In any case, the solder ferrule depicted in the "procedure" does not even show the solder melted, it's still a solder barrel. In order to create a mechanical connection, the solder must get hot enough to go liquidous and wet out. Stuff like this "works" ....until it doesn't. Then the installer is crowd-sourcing 6 different C5 forums for advice on how to troubleshoot.
[QUOTE=lucky131969;1608534171]What is the ground path at the seat bolt? Through the floor somehow? Tangential through the seat rail? Why guess? ....especially when you had a big fat black ground wire(grounded at G205) to tap into? I mean, you already tapped into the orange 12v feed, what's one more connection for a no-brainer ground point?
As far as the procedure, solder ferrules are bush-league, but they do appeal to the masses. In any case, the solder ferrule depicted in the "procedure" does not even show the solder melted, it's still a solder barrel. In order to create a mechanical connection, the solder must get hot enough to go liquidous and wet out. Stuff like this "works" ....until it doesn't. Then the installer is crowd-sourcing 6 different C5 forums for advice on how to troubleshoot.
/QUOTE]
Thanks for your input.
You have a valid point about using the ground on the seat harness. I'll change it tonight. I can tell you that the bolt itself is grounded and it's not using the seat frame.
I have to disagree with you on the solder ferrules. You have to use them correctly but they work great. I use a hot air solder station. I haven't had one fail yet.
What is the ground path at the seat bolt? Through the floor somehow? Tangential through the seat rail? Why guess? ....especially when you had a big fat black ground wire(grounded at G205) to tap into? I mean, you already tapped into the orange 12v feed, what's one more connection for a no-brainer ground point?
As far as the procedure, solder ferrules are bush-league, but they do appeal to the masses. In any case, the solder ferrule depicted in the "procedure" does not even show the solder melted, it's still a solder barrel. In order to create a mechanical connection, the solder must get hot enough to go liquidous and wet out. Stuff like this "works" ....until it doesn't. Then the installer is crowd-sourcing 6 different C5 forums for advice on how to troubleshoot.
/QUOTE]
I have to disagree with you on the solder ferrules. You have to use them correctly but they work great. I use a hot air solder station. I haven't had one fail yet.
Yep, most car stereo installers and auto electric shops will support that. The only time they were permissible in the industries I have worked, was to facilitate the repair of coaxial cable shielding on aircraft. The center conductor was always crimped.
Just finished working on my telescoping steering wheel and I want to THANK all of you on this thread and the Corvette Forum as I was able to learn, identify, and fix my non-working telescoping issue after unwrapping the electric tape on the blue coupling under the drivers seat and found 2 broken wires on the B & F terminal. I broke the G terminal wire in the process which was the next weak link. Everything works like new. Awesome! Thanks again!