The Buick sensor is used with a relocation hose and a 1/4" NPT fitting on the end of the hose. You could use a stock sensor with M16 x 1.5 Threads with the correct fitting.
After installing the relocation kit, the sensor will be easily accessible and it should take about 5 min to replace. It is very easy to see the difference between the NPT and
the Metric threads.
About 35 years ago, my buddy was having problems with the front brakes rubbing hard against the rotors on his Plymouth Volarie Wagon. Took it apart and the
caliper pistons were FIBERGLASS and warped so bad I had to drill them out. Talk about cheezey sh*t!

Larry

 

I don’t know about the Volarie but my buddies 2005 Ram 1500 motor craft pads had stainless steel that road on the caliper bracket I was like genius why would Chevrolet not do this on a Cadillac or a Corvette . Which I have had a few and always rusty crusty New England brakes that attract rust like a Bee to honey. I am curious about the adapter were does the sensor park being attached to a rubber hose and is the rubber hose braided stainless? After plugging in is there a mounting bracket or a park position for the new sensor location or are we zip tying to the power booster hose . There is no sarcasm! After this I will go to top flight and look up the relocating kit . I have bought from Top Flight and been 100% satisfied every time . So I am going to look

 

Here’s a relocater kit on Amazon. It’s set up for the standard Chevy sensor.

To adapt for the Buick sensor the fittings circled in red would be replaced with Aeroquip fitting below.

Some people zip tie this to the fuel rail, or just lay it up under the cowl.

An option is to just buy the individual fittings and hose for about $50.

 

Going to keep my opinion to myself. But that is exactly as bad as I thought it was going to be . Just because something Is hard to swap out . Would not = that abomination under my hood with a sensitive sensor bouncing around or zip tied were ever . If I were looking at a corvette to buy and I saw that I would be all set . I really think that the guy that takes off wiper cowl and breaks out the hole saw is a cleaner look because after the cowl goes back he is the only one that knows what he did ! And he knows what he did . It is not a great job it actually hurts my back more than anything, and I have hams for hands so snug but doable the thin socket made for the sensor, 3/8 drive socket and a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer 1/4 cv swivel with a 1/4 6” flex braided extension. I use a piece of ground copper wire from house wire, I’m sure a metal coat hanger would probably work just as good , to lift the tab on plug to keep it open everything tied off to the passenger wiper base simple pull plug lefty loosen and I have already tied the old sensor off a couple of pieces of black electric tape in the socket so new sensor does not fall out of the socket even though it is tied off with a slip not , walk in by hand snug up plug in the socket and untie everything at that point Bob’s your Uncle. I got 52,000 out of this one I drive maybe 3-5 thousand a year so in 2-10 years if god is good we change it again . I know that there also ladies on the forum but that extension looks like a sore D*<k ! Again just my opinion. When I was 18 I would probably go the hole saw route .But even
when I was 18 I would and could not do that extension set up .I have so learned to just do it right the first time , even if it is hard . If it were easy there would be a lot of really clean unmolested Corvette’s out there that is why a nice one sells close to double what a molested one sells for. And I have no problem doing a mod but I save the OEM part in case I want to go back , or if I sell new owner has a pickup truck full of parts to bolt back on if that is his jam . I hope this saved at least 1 Corvette

 

You’re welcome.

 

I had looked it up myself and was trying to keep my opinion to myself


but I got the email that I had information on a thread that I was following. But seriously Thanks

 

So I hop in the Vette yesterday, two months after I swapped sensors, and when I start the car the DIC says "Service Engine Soon". The reason was it was showing 0 oil pressure. No oil leaks anywhere, checked the oil and it was fine, so I drove to the grocery store about two miles away. Nothing seemed off with the car and the oil temp was increasing at the usual rate, so I assumed the problem was the sensor. I get groceries, start the car, still no pressure reading, still saying "Service Engine Soon". Before I was out of the parking lot, the pressure reading came back on both the gauge and the DIC and was reading as normal. Fairly certain the Chinese sensor is the problem, but anyone have something similar happen? I'm hoping I didn't damage the electrical connection when I replaced the OEM sensor. Getting the connector off was by far the hardest part of the sensor replacement because of the direction the clip was facing.

Aside from it consistently reading about 10psi higher than the actual pressure, this is the first hiccup I've had with the new sensor.

 

How do you like the adapter? How long been running?

 

I got this one . looks better and a bit less $$ ........Working dandy . The thing I was weary about was dropping pieces down the intake ports . They are almost straight up.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/176810135074

 

I've had a brand new one fail within 24 hours of install. When they fail on the top the car will not become finicky. When they fail on the low end causing low end fluctuations the dash sounds off all the
alarms like a slot machine. Just as you've described. Buy a new one from your local parts store and swap it in. Likely your problem will be solved.