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My dad owns a low mileage 02 Corvette which he has not driven in a long time , we would go out about every week or so and start it. He decided to go take it for a drive the other day, Got a Car Wash and filled up the gas tank got back to his place and it died the street. The only way we could get it started was with starting fluid. Then after a few days it wouldn't even do that. The fuel pump is definitely turning on every time you turn the key but I put a timing light on it and there was no spark. There was one code of po335 for a crankshaft position sensor. After I cleared that it never came, back but it has neverrstarted again either. My brother and I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and still no start, I didn't have the timing light to check to see if there was spark but I doubt it. Any ideas?
You may want to check the crank position sensor wiring and connector. The sensor is located next to the starter behind the passenger side exhaust manifold. I removed both the passenger side exhaust manifold and starter for ease of access when I replaced mine.
Unfortunately we just had it all apart,and of course put it all back together, and it didn't start. My brother and i both worked on it, but he put the sensor in,and hooked it up, so i didn't get a good look at the connector and wires. At about 60k miles with stock exhaust, i cant imagine its melted, but who knows, maybe the wiring or connector is a common problem
A quick check to see if it may be a crank sensor is to see if the Tach moves during cranking…no Tach movement is no crank sensor signal…was your sensor OEM or aftermarket ??…if aftermarket that may be your problem…if you have a DVOM and a test light you can do a quick check of the wiring…12 volt power, signal and a reference ground.
I appreciate the help guys. Yes, my brother did order an aftermarket sensor, and he also said the tach did not move when cranking, like before it was changed out. How would I test the electrical exactly? Yes I have a digital volt meter. Thanks
You can just use a incandescent 12 volt test light so with the key on the light green wire should have 12 volts or light the test light and then connect the test light to battery positive and probe the yellow/black reference ground and again the test light should light…connect the test light to a good ground again and tap quickly on the dark blue/white wire and if the signal wire is good to the PCM you will hear the fuel pump turn on and possibly the injectors fire.
Quickly tapping on the blue/white wire is called a “bypass test”…as the crank sensor moves past the notches in the reluctor wheel the 12 volts go to ground then back to 12 volts…you are just simulating that by tapping on the blue/white wire…that is how this “Hall Effect” sensor works.
Mentioned that the car was taken to a car wash, I would remove the passenger wheel well cover and examine the PCM wiring and connectors for water intrusion. C5 corvettes should be washed by hand with a garden hose, many cases of cars failing to start after being washed at automatic car washes.
You can just use a incandescent 12 volt test light so with the key on the light green wire should have 12 volts or light the test light and then connect the test light to battery positive and probe the yellow/black reference ground and again the test light should light…connect the test light to a good ground again and tap quickly on the dark blue/white wire and if the signal wire is good to the PCM you will hear the fuel pump turn on and possibly the injectors fire.
We finally looked again today. The blue wire is not responding. We put a test light ground end to ground, and probed the electrical connection at the blue wire, with the key on. No click, no fuel pump hum, no test light lighting up. The first 2 tests worked fine. The fuel pump does come on when you turn the key. We have a new ac Delco crank sensor buy haven't put it in yet, because I assume we aren't getting power to the blue wire? Any fuses or relays we should check? The computer wiring didn't look bad
I think I f’ed up…I think the crank sensor is a “pull up” design so you would have to connect the test light to battery positive and tap on the blue/white wire to fire the coils and injectors !!..the blue/white wire is the signal wire so you wouldn’t be checking voltage there !!
Thanks , we checked it again that way and the fuel pump turn on, and my brother heard a click in the engine like maybe an injector. Tried to start but battery's dead . Will try again. Thanks