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Old Jul 15, 2023 | 08:47 AM
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Default Electrical issue

Hello all, I have a 2001 c5 that has been giving me some issues lately. When I try to start the car the coolant gauge will max out and the fuel gauge goes to zero followed by “reduced engine power” and occasionally other messages. There is also a buzzing noise from under the hood near the coil packs. I charged the battery thinking it was a low voltage issue but has still been present since. Any help is appreciated thank you
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Old Jul 15, 2023 | 09:03 AM
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First step for electrical gremlins is to disconnect the battery for about half hour.
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Old Jul 15, 2023 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by yellow2007
First step for electrical gremlins is to disconnect the battery for about half hour.
The first thing I did was disconnect it and charge it and it hasn’t made a difference. Car will only start if I disconnect the battery and reconnect it but then it dies shortly after
Also lost control of the windows but got it back when I disconnected and reconnected the battery

Last edited by Dnacc5; Jul 15, 2023 at 09:44 AM.
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Old Jul 15, 2023 | 09:44 AM
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Sounds like the “classic” serial data bus issue…you will see the fuel gauge go to E, water temp gauge maxes out, power windows don’t work, and all all those DIC messages appear…what happens is one of the cars modules power or ground “back feeds” onto the single wire data bus and all heXx breaks loose…many times it’s the driver door connection inside of rubber accordion boot you see when you open the door…try shaking it a few times or pull the boot back and check the connector…if not that there are some other items we can check…if you have a DVOM that would be helpful…the data wire is pin #2 on the DLC and you can check if there is 12 volts or ground there when your problem occurs…I’ve actually demonstrated what you’re seeing by taking a jumper wire and putting 12 volts or a ground on that single data wire…won’t damage anything though…moving this to Tech.

https://www.youtube.com/live/f_NEEdgZSlE?feature=share

Last edited by C5 Diag; Jul 15, 2023 at 09:52 AM.
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Old Jul 15, 2023 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
Sounds like the “classic” serial data bus…you will see the fuel gauge go to E, water temp gauge maxes out, power windows don’t work, and all all those DIC messages appear…what happens is one of the cars modules power or ground “back feeds” onto the single wire data bus and all heXx breaks loose…many times it’s the driver door connection inside of rubber accordion boot you see when you open the door…try shaking it a few times or pull the boot back and check the connector…if not that there are some other items we can check…if you have a DVOM that would be helpful…I’ve actually demonstrated what you’re seeing by taking a jumper wire and putting 12 volts or a ground on that single data wire…won’t damage anything though…moving this to Tech.

https://www.youtube.com/live/f_NEEdgZSlE?feature=share
Yeah that’s what I was worried of. I tried messing with the accordion thing on the door with no luck. When I have some spare time I’ll take a look at the connectors. Unfortunately I don’t have a DVOM.
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Old Jul 15, 2023 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Dnacc5
Yeah that’s what I was worried of. I tried messing with the accordion thing on the door with no luck. When I have some spare time I’ll take a look at the connectors. Unfortunately I don’t have a DVOM.
If the issue is not at the door connector you will need to check for 12 volts or ground at each of those 2 splice pack connectors near the BCM once you removed the “comb”…when the 2 combs are removed all the modules are isolated…you can then check for 12 volts or a ground on each wire with the key on…if this is something you want a professional to handle take the car to Danner Automotive in Bethel Park.
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Old Jul 15, 2023 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
If the issue is not at the door connector you will need to check for 12 volts or ground at each of those 2 splice pack connectors near the BCM once you removed the “comb”…when the 2 combs are removed all the modules are isolated…you can then check for 12 volts or a ground on each wire with the key on…if this is something you want a professional to handle take the car to Danner Automotive in Bethel Park.
Ok thank you for your help. I’ve never used a DVOM before but I’m sure I could figure it out. At my wits end with this car
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Old Jul 15, 2023 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Dnacc5
Ok thank you for your help. I’ve never used a DVOM before but I’m sure I could figure it out. At my wits end with this car
If you’ve never used a DVOM before I’d HIGHLY recommend you take the car to Danner Automotive and let them handle it…this diagnosis can get involved.
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Old Jul 15, 2023 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
If you’ve never used a DVOM before I’d HIGHLY recommend you take the car to Danner Automotive and let them handle it…this diagnosis can get involved.
probably a good idea. I’ll give them a call next week. Still gonna look at the connectors in the door, really hoping that fixes it
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Old Jul 17, 2023 | 04:19 PM
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Short update. Pulled out both connectors in the driver and passenger doors and checked for corrosion or loose wires with no luck. Moved on to the star connectors and disconnected the bar from both of them and the car still acts up. Is it possible that it’s a bad ground causing all these problems?
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Old Jul 17, 2023 | 04:32 PM
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It could be a bad ground but a ground for one of the modules…since you removed both “combs” and if with the key on all the modules are isolated you you shouldn’t see what you saw initially…if you jump the light green and dark green wires on the splice pack the car will start because the BCM and PCM need to communicate with each other.
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Old Jul 17, 2023 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
It could be a bad ground but a ground for one of the modules…since you removed both “combs” and if with the key on all the modules are isolated you you shouldn’t see what you saw initially…if you jump the light green and dark green wires on the splice pack the car will start because the BCM and PCM need to communicate with each other.
Might try that tomorrow. Even with both combs unplugged the car would do the same thing. Not opposed to having that shop look at it but I’d rather not have it towed there to save me the headache. I also checked all the bcm fuses under the passenger footwell and they all looked good. Ground g104 looks kinda crappy so I’m gonna clean that one next. I appreciate all your help!
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Old Jul 21, 2023 | 06:09 PM
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Ok another update. Replaced ignition switch and tested the battery with no luck. Cleaned the grounds behind the headlights and the g104 grounds next to the battery. Checked grounds on the block on the passenger side and the driver side and both were tight and clean. The car will start if I jump the pcm and bcm. Anything else I can do before I take it somewhere?
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Old Jul 21, 2023 | 06:15 PM
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If you get that DVOM remove both “combs” and while probing each splice pack wire with the key on see if there is 12 volts or ground on any of those…a good reading will show as a voltage dancing around .2 to .3 volts.
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Old Jul 24, 2023 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
If you get that DVOM remove both “combs” and while probing each splice pack wire with the key on see if there is 12 volts or ground on any of those…a good reading will show as a voltage dancing around .2 to .3 volts.
messed around with the multimeter today. Three of the wires on the first splice(brown, orange, brown/white) were going from 0 to .01. The purple wire was around .04. Not sure totally sure if I’m reading them correctly. Had the multimeter set to Volts and checked each female pin with the red lead
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Old Jul 28, 2023 | 08:39 AM
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It was a loose ground g106
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Old Jul 28, 2023 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Dnacc5
It was a loose ground g106
G106 is the battery negative cable and has a ground for the PCM…interesting !!…did you take the car to Danner Automotive ??
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