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I have removed my ebcm and redone the solder on several points that looked bad. I would like to put it back on the car and test it quickly before I silicone it back up and put it all back together permanently. My question is do I actually have to start the engine to make the ebcm initialize and go through its cycle and turn off the dash lights? The driver's side front accessories are not currently installed, and the intake manifold is not on there either. So can I just hook up the battery, pull the fuel pump relay, and turn on the key? And then if the abs and tc lights don't come on, then I'm GTG?
I guess I'll answer my own question for the record. Yes, it works.
I finished up the soldering job last night and put the module back in the aluminum case without sealing it. I then took it out to the car and installed it with 3 screws. I removed the fuel pump relay, and I made sure the alternator wires were well protected. Then I hooked up the battery and went and turned the key to on. Frustratingly, the ABS and TC lights were still shining brightly. So I unhooked the battery and walked away from it.
When I woke up this morning, drinking coffee, I remembered that I hadn't actually plugged the wires back into the EBCM. DOH!!! So I went back out, plugged them in, hooked up the battery, and turned on the key. Voila!!! No ABS/TC lights!!! It's fixed!!!
what codes were you getting?? i did the resolder job as well and i’m still getting no comms to TCS
If you are getting a “no comm” to the EBCM the FIRST thing you want to check is power and grounds to the EBCM…there is a “battery” feed and an “ignition” feed…if you have a 12 volt test light you can check both power and grounds !!…pins A,B,F, and G…to check the 2 grounds connect test light to B+ and if test light is bright probing both ground wires the grounds are good.
If you are getting a “no comm” to the EBCM the FIRST thing you want to check is power and grounds to the EBCM…there is a “battery” feed and an “ignition” feed…if you have a 12 volt test light you can check both power and grounds !!…pins A,B,F, and G…to check the 2 grounds connect test light to B+ and if test light is bright probing both ground wires the grounds are good.
I’ve confirmed both power and ground with a test probe. Still getting no comms
Do you know where the 2 splice packs that are near the BCM ??…remove the “comb” from the splice pack and clean the comb with some emery cloth…pin E is a light blue wire and if there is oxyidation on that comb for pin E the scan tool will not be able to communicate with the EBCM !!
Do you know where the 2 splice packs that are near the BCM ??…remove the “comb” from the splice pack and clean the comb with some emery cloth…pin E is a light blue wire and if there is oxyidation on that comb for pin E the scan tool will not be able to communicate with the EBCM !!
2004 ebcm question
