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I just got the car back out after installing a rebuilt diff. I noticed once the engine is warmed up (190F) and at idle (40lbs oil pressure at idle) I'll get an occasional ticking. I'm using a Melling high volume pump with a DRM oil cooler. I'm confident that it's only one cylinder on the drivers side. They're LS7 lifters and I've got the bronze trunnion upgrade. The cam is intake .614 and 276. Exhaust .624 and 292. Nothing crazy. I'm guessing 10k miles on the build.
The motor is a 383 with an A&A kit making about 10lbs of boost. The most I'll spin it to is 7K but normal enthusiastic driving I'll keep it at 6.5k or lower. Extremely rare I'll hit the rev limiter. It's got new plug wires too. I checked last night for any arching to be 100% sure.
A few of us did a 160 mile drive yesterday with a number of good pulls. The car might have used a pinch of oil but i checked it not long after the drive so perhaps it used next to none. It will use a bit anyway due to ring gap for BOOST.
My plan is to pull the rocker assembly and take a look at the push rods, see what the plungers feel like and check the trunnions. I'll be draining the oil and cutting the oil filter just for fun as well.
Any other thoughts or suggestions? Throw out the LS7 lifters and get some Johnsons?
I just got the car back out after installing a rebuilt diff. I noticed once the engine is warmed up (190F) and at idle (40lbs oil pressure at idle) I'll get an occasional ticking. I'm using a Melling high volume pump with a DRM oil cooler. I'm confident that it's only one cylinder on the drivers side. They're LS7 lifters and I've got the bronze trunnion upgrade. The cam is intake .614 and 276. Exhaust .624 and 292. Nothing crazy. I'm guessing 10k miles on the build.
The motor is a 383 with an A&A kit making about 10lbs of boost. The most I'll spin it to is 7K but normal enthusiastic driving I'll keep it at 6.5k or lower. Extremely rare I'll hit the rev limiter. It's got new plug wires too. I checked last night for any arching to be 100% sure.
A few of us did a 160 mile drive yesterday with a number of good pulls. The car might have used a pinch of oil but i checked it not long after the drive so perhaps it used next to none. It will use a bit anyway due to ring gap for BOOST.
My plan is to pull the rocker assembly and take a look at the push rods, see what the plungers feel like and check the trunnions. I'll be draining the oil and cutting the oil filter just for fun as well.
Any other thoughts or suggestions? Throw out the LS7 lifters and get some Johnsons?
Thanks!
Are you certain the tick isn't normal? LS engines aren't known for being the quietest engines. Also, you list what I think are the gross duration figures. What is the duration at .050 lift? That could help explain some of the valvetrain noise. Injectors on these engines are also pretty noisy. Hard to dianose online. FWIW, I have LS7 lifters (I think all LS engines, except newer DOD engines, use one lifter, and it's just commonly called the LS7 lifter.) in my modded LS7 engined C5. I haven't had any trouble with them, so far.....
I don’t think it’s normal because it’s only on the one side and it’s intermittent.
Yes the (ID1000) injectors are noisy but this is a more metallic sound.
Also the noise is only after the car is fully warmed up.
I certainly appreciate your response.
Thank you!
Youre welcome! We're here to try to help. I would definitely check the rocker arms to see if they're tightened, or maybe PRs for any bent ones. I've noticed that a couple of times thru the years that when I've bolted my rockers down they can sometimes be just a bit cocked, or not fully seated/nested in their mounts. For that reason, when I do this now, I make sure that as it nears being fully seated, I wiggle the rocker back and forth between my thumb and index finger just a little bit as I'm tightening it. It will usually be fully seated when the tip is directly over the valve stem. Then you can torque them to spec confident they're positioned and seated correctly. Works for me. IIRC, the torque spec is 22lbs/ft, or 264lbs/inch......
Common failure on those bronze bushings. It’s well documented over on LS1 Tech.
Some companies developed different oiling solutions. Other companies said it was an oiling issue with the engine. Yeah, right.
Do some research.
Myself, I didn’t like the bronze approach, so went with the Tooley series II needle bearing approach with no issues.
I believe I made a mistake with the previous trunnion “upgrade”. I won’t say who I got them from but suffice it to say I didn’t do enough research.
So aggravating when you perform an "upgrade" when in reality it's a downgrade and you gotta do the job twice...
That BTR kit would be my go-to if/when I ever get into it.
Like Ron I decided to go with a premium needle bearing to replace my "upgraded" bronze bushings. These noticeably quieted down the valve train and so far seem stable. http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=9356
Common failure on those bronze bushings. It’s well documented over on LS1 Tech.
Some companies developed different oiling solutions. Other companies said it was an oiling issue with the engine. Yeah, right.
Do some research.
Myself, I didn’t like the bronze approach, so went with the Tooley series II needle bearing approach with no issues.
I also have the same BTR series II trunnions. No issues here, either...