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Hey everyone, I’m back at it with another post regarding my C5. I have had a lot of electrical issues but I have finally narrowed it down. My cable from my alternator to my starter was cooked and ended up melting that bolt on the starter. Upon further inspection the connector that sits on the starter was replaced and had a really hacksaw job done. I do not think I can just cut the corroded part out and install a new terminal as the wire is corroded and brittle(pics below). So my question is is it possible to just run a new wire from my alternator straight down to my starter? what are the requirements for that?
The B+ alternator cable uses a 10 gauge fusible link so the cable itself would be normally a 6 gauge cable so you would just cut it to length…you might be able to find a shop that can put everything together for you.
The B+ alternator cable uses a 10 gauge fusible link so the cable itself would be normally a 6 gauge cable so you would just cut it to length…you might be able to find a shop that can put everything together for you.
awesome diagram thank you man. How necessary is a fuseable link? What would happen if one was not installed?. And is it possible if re wiring is the requirement to just add a new one that runs along the path of the old one without removing it? I have a 4 gauge wire that is the perfect length to do that granted it doesn’t have a fuseable link. When you referred to a shop putting it together for me did you mean having them wire the car themself or just making me that 6 gauge with a 10 gauge fuseable link? thank you!
awesome diagram thank you man. How necessary is a fuseable link? What would happen if one was not installed?. And is it possible if re wiring is the requirement to just add a new one that runs along the path of the old one without removing it? I have a 4 gauge wire that is the perfect length to do that granted it doesn’t have a fuseable link. When you referred to a shop putting it together for me did you mean having them wire the car themself or just making me that 6 gauge with a 10 gauge fuseable link? thank you!
Just making the cable with the fuseable link…most use a hydraulic swagging machine that you can pick up on Amazon.
A fuseable link on the alternator output cable prevents full battery power flowing in case of a alternator short to ground. It would burn up the wiring harness and cause a fire.
A fuseable link on the alternator output cable prevents full battery power flowing in case of a alternator short to ground. It would burn up the wiring harness and cause a fire.
is an in-line fuse the same thing as a fuseable link?
A 4 gauge wire that length is likely good for around 150A. The alternator is rated 110A or 130A I believe. I'd use a 150A fuse.
You could also run the wires straight to the battery instead of the starter or even to post on the under hood fuse block. The solenoid was done so the wiring could be installed before the car was assembled, but it's not the ideal way to wire it.
10 gauge fusible link can carry way more than 30A. Likely good for around 60-90A continuous considering its protecting 6 gauge wire.
A 4 gauge wire that length is likely good for around 150A. The alternator is rated 110A or 130A I believe. I'd use a 150A fuse.
You could also run the wires straight to the battery instead of the starter or even to post on the under hood fuse block. The solenoid was done so the wiring could be installed before the car was assembled, but it's not the ideal way to wire it.
10 gauge fusible link can carry way more than 30A. Likely good for around 60-90A continuous considering its protecting 6 gauge wire.
I have 6 gauge wire, is that going to work for this? would you recommend running it straight to the battery? Is it easier to just stick with running it to the starter?
A 4 gauge wire that length is likely good for around 150A. The alternator is rated 110A or 130A I believe. I'd use a 150A fuse.
You could also run the wires straight to the battery instead of the starter or even to post on the under hood fuse block. The solenoid was done so the wiring could be installed before the car was assembled, but it's not the ideal way to wire it.
10 gauge fusible link can carry way more than 30A. Likely good for around 60-90A continuous considering its protecting 6 gauge wire.
The B+ alternator cable uses a 10 gauge fusible link so the cable itself would be normally a 6 gauge cable so you would just cut it to length…you might be able to find a shop that can put everything together for you.
hey! so i re installed my starter and I ran a 6 gauge wire with a 10 gauge fuseable link down to the starter. i also replaced the fuseable link that runs to the other wire on the starter. I reinstalled everything and torqued it to specs. It is my Original starter that has been remanufactured. It is an ACDelco alternator and a new battery. My car still says charge system fault. It’s better then it was last time as the car actually charges, but i’m scared of the charge system fault that keeps showing up. What else is there for me to do?
You have to measure the voltage on the smaller gauge wire that you replaced the fuseable link, it should have full battery voltage at the connector that plugs into the alternator. Inspect the alternator connector and connector that plugs into the alternator for corrosion as well.
You have to measure the voltage on the smaller gauge wire that you replaced the fuseable link, it should have full battery voltage at the connector that plugs into the alternator. Inspect the alternator connector and connector that plugs into the alternator for corrosion as well.
how do i test for the battery current on that connector? just put it into the connector and then ground it somewhere? or do i have to test it at the starter
Alternator to Starter Wiring
