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Old Nov 17, 2023 | 12:48 PM
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Default broke a ground post

I have a 97 coupe. I was cleaning the ground post and snapped the post by the passenger side headlight. Any suggestions on how to replace or repair it. It looks like a copper post. Does it have to be welded or can I drill a hole and use a self tapping screw to replace it. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Nov 17, 2023 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by hmr868991
can I drill a hole and use a self tapping screw to replace it?
Yes. You'll want a way to keep it from backing out so plan on a lock washer or spring washer and/or maybe some blue loc-tite.

Last edited by Dads2kconvertible; Nov 17, 2023 at 05:26 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2023 | 04:58 PM
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Thank you I'm going to try it
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 05:48 AM
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Not a fan of using self tapping screws for electrical connections. I would drill a hole and use a long screw in from the bottom area and
one nut to attach to the frame. Then use another nut to attach the ground wire. Use stainless or brass hardware to prevent rusting.
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by LWSZ06
Not a fan of using self tapping screws for electrical connections. I would drill a hole and use a long screw in from the bottom area and
one nut to attach to the frame. Then use another nut to attach the ground wire. Use stainless or brass hardware to prevent rusting.
I agree in principle that there is always a better way.
The OP asked if it was possible and that answer is yes.

One drawback to your way is you need access to the bottom side, and space to fit the screw in from that side. Then a nut on the top, and another nut to hold your grounding hardware. The very definition of project creep.

Don't let perfect be the enemy of good.
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Dads2kconvertible
I agree in principle that there is always a better way.
The OP asked if it was possible and that answer is yes.

One drawback to your way is you need access to the bottom side, and space to fit the screw in from that side. Then a nut on the top, and another nut to hold your grounding hardware. The very definition of project creep.

Don't let perfect be the enemy of good.
Without going out and looking, I believe this is the same ground stud that I once broke. GM certainly could've welded it to the frame rail better. This was almost 20 years ago. I do know that the one I broke I successfully repaired with either a self tapping screw, or I drilled a small hole and used a sheet metal screw. Basically what you suggessted. No problems ever. If I was a purist, I'd probably try grinding the broken stud flat, and have a good welder weld an M6×1.0(?) stud back on, then I'd repaint it, aka one Helluva job to retain originality! Self tapping/sheet metal screw ftw!!!!
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 08:41 AM
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All of the above responses just go to show “there’s always more than one way to skin a cat”. Damn I’m getting old if I remember that saying.
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 08:44 AM
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I appreciate the suggestions, all seem like they will work. Drilling a hole and putting a screw in from the bottom and using a nut to secure it and another nut to ground it does seem like a good option, however getting a screw in from the bottom is difficult, very little room. I'm going to try a self tapping screw, if it doesn't work I can always remove it and use the drilled hole the use the screw and nut process. Thanks for the input.
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 11:23 AM
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I’m not sure what you have for space but Riv nuts are strong and reliable

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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 01:22 PM
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I used the self tapping screw for the time being, it seems strong and tight. I'm having an issue with my a/c, heat control panel, it shut off about a month ago while driving and comes back on and turns off again. I've cleaned the grounds under the hood hoping that was the problem, it was not ,I'm trying to check for a loose wire next. Basically I'm trying to trouble shoot what the problem is by process of elimination. Has anyone run into this problem.
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by hmr868991
I used the self tapping screw for the time being, it seems strong and tight. I'm having an issue with my a/c, heat control panel, it shut off about a month ago while driving and comes back on and turns off again. I've cleaned the grounds under the hood hoping that was the problem, it was not ,I'm trying to check for a loose wire next. Basically I'm trying to trouble shoot what the problem is by process of elimination. Has anyone run into this problem.
Electronic, or manual A/C? More info you provide=more (and accurate!) info on repair. Does it actually work, or if electronic, does display go dim/out?
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 06:02 PM
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Everything was working fine, a/c ,heat, front and rear defrost, temp, speed, everything, no problems. The display went right on and everything worked. Suddenly while driving with the a/c on it just went out the display went out and wouldn't turn back on. Suddenly the display lit up again and it began working again, I shut it off and it wouldn't turn on again. The check engine light then went on. Now it will randomly go on and shut off. I haven't any control over it. I was thinking either a bad ground or a loose wire. I ran a diagnostic check and six codes came up. I find it hard to believe all six things went at once. I'm baffled.
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 06:18 PM
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Have you looked under your battery tray to see if the electrical box under there has corrosion from a leaky battery years ago?
A test light on the power pin in the connector should tell you if it has a good ground.
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 06:27 PM
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I haven't tried that, but I will tomorrow
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Old Nov 22, 2023 | 11:13 PM
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Default Repair stripped radiator shroud nut?

One of my four 10mm shroud cover hold down nuts won't tighten down (Dealership stripped out the female threads years ago). What is the best way to repair it? I have a 10mm Helicoil kit, but not sure if the frame rail is thick enough for that? Rivetnut or Cross Nut fastener maybe?
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Old Nov 22, 2023 | 11:34 PM
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Moving this to C5 Tech for more discussion.
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