When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've got a Tick master in my car. Recently it has become intermittent. Sometimes it will work as advertised and the car goes into gear no problem. Other times, it won't go into gear at all. Pedal is firm and feels normal. I've bled it and there's no evidence of leaking. Slave was replaced fairly recently, so I'm hoping it's not that.
To clarify, the issue is that sometimes it won't go into gear?
Can you be more specific? i.e. 1st gear, 2nd, 3rd, all gears...? Engine on or off, engine hot or cold, etc.
At this stage I'd drop the midpipes and clutch inspection cover, and watch the slave/pressure plate move when the pedal is pushed. The clutch disc should free up completely, and if not then it could point to a clutch issue. If it does then we can start looking at other things.
I dug into this more, and am just as stumped as ever. I inspected the slave and clutch area. No signs of leakage, and proper actuation was observed.
With the car on jack stands I tested the clutch. Pedal in, car in gear and the wheels don't move. Release the pedal and the wheels start to move. Push the pedal back in and the wheels stop. I held it for about 60 or more seconds, and still no movement with the wheels (indicating no pressure decay due to leak).
Then at an autocross yesterday I was right back to the intermittent bullshit. Sometimes it would work 100% perfectly, and other times it was like the clutch wasn't working at all. When it wouldn't work, I'd shut the car off, put it in gear, and restart and sometimes it would even jump like it was in gear with the clutch partially engaged!
I'm thinking maybe an air bubble in the master cylinder? I haven't had the system open in over a year, and the problem has started after quite a bit of problem-free operation.
The only bright spot I can offer is that when I’ve had this kind of problem it has been an internal leak with the master cylinder. Did you need the Tick? I worry that they can over extend the slave.
I dug into this more, and am just as stumped as ever. I inspected the slave and clutch area. No signs of leakage, and proper actuation was observed.
With the car on jack stands I tested the clutch. Pedal in, car in gear and the wheels don't move. Release the pedal and the wheels start to move. Push the pedal back in and the wheels stop. I held it for about 60 or more seconds, and still no movement with the wheels (indicating no pressure decay due to leak).
Then at an autocross yesterday I was right back to the intermittent bullshit. Sometimes it would work 100% perfectly, and other times it was like the clutch wasn't working at all. When it wouldn't work, I'd shut the car off, put it in gear, and restart and sometimes it would even jump like it was in gear with the clutch partially engaged!
I'm thinking maybe an air bubble in the master cylinder? I haven't had the system open in over a year, and the problem has started after quite a bit of problem-free operation.
Certainly can't hurt to try bleeding the hydraulics if it's been a year already.
No. It has happened on cold starts, or after stopping after an autocross run, idling in the grid for a few minutes, and trying to move for my next run. I haven't established any kind of pattern. I can't reliably reproduce it, nor can I reliably correct it. I'm wondering if maybe there's an air bubble in the master that moves around? Is that a possibility?
I'm still dealing with this problem. Given that this car only sees the light of day for a few autocross or track events per year, it's been a really low priority.
I think it's an improperly shimmed slave cylinder. That REALLY sucks, because 1. it's my fault, and 2. I've gotta pull the driveline to fix it.
I'm going to throw a Tick slave at it when I've got it apart, and make sure that's the LAST time I need to **** around with the slave on this car ever again.
Nothing against Tick, but $460 for a slave cylinder. For that kind of increase (more than double GM Z06 part pricing) I’d definitely want know what the warranty difference is.