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No need to pull the fuse. If active handling / traction control lights are on you don't have ABS and can drive the car without them.
If you want to investigate why the lights are on pull the codes and see what is current. Start recording with your phone before you start the process so you don't miss the first couple codes.
No need to pull the fuse. If active handling / traction control lights are on you don't have ABS and can drive the car without them.
If you want to investigate why the lights are on pull the codes and see what is current. Start recording with your phone before you start the process so you don't miss the first couple codes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4
I race my car and this is not really right. Perhaps if you keep the speeds down to street speeds maybe this is OK. I do not know. I have been fighting EBCM ABS malfunction for the last 1/2 year. It started out intermittent and finally has become permanent on my C5Z racecar. When the abs and TC light are on even if TC is punched off when I fly into the braking zones at triple digit speeds the ABS will sometimes lock all 4 wheels and flat spot ruin my tires. Sometimes only 2 wheels will lock and I get thrown into a spin! This is hugely dangerous. I thought I got it all fixed for my Sebring race but just leaving the grid my ABS light came on. I knew I was screwed. I continues onto turn 1 only going about 80mph hit the brakes and got 4 wheel lock-up and then just left off the brakes completely to coast the corner. With ABS light my brakes are unsafe and unusable. You mileage may vary.
My solution before my new ABS unit arrives was to remove the 20 and 40 AMP fuses. This completely disables the ABS/TC and it's like 1980 no ABS just the factory GM brake bias that can be tuned with pad selection. Car works great this way and quite frankly I might just keep it this way. It is reliable now and I have no fear of no brakes going into turns are 150mph.