I have a 2000 6-speed that has become hard to get into gear. Getting it into reverse is almost impossible. With the engine not running, it is easy to shift (including reverse). The clutch was replaced in the past and has a remote bleeder. I have flushed the fluid. I don’t think I’m getting all of the air out as I still see lots of bubbles from the remote bleeder. Would that be the master or slave cylinders that would cause an air leak in the hydraulic system?
TIA.

 

Are you experiencing any fluid loss? Next time you're trying to get into reverse, hold the lever in neutral, then pump the clutch pedal several times before holding it to the floor, and semi-quickly shooting for reverse. Clutch won't have any effect on the lock out solenoid, so make sure the lever goes over the necessary amount before trying the pump process. If there is air in the line or cylinders it should build more pressure, just as a brake will, though it bleeds off quickly.

 

I would check your shifter alignment. I had a hellova time getting mine into reverse and that was my issue. It's quick and easy to do and there are plenty of videos and descriptions of how to do it. You might get lucky!

 

If the checks @redzg and @Bobbo76 don't work, it may be transmission synchros. I have direct experience with all of this and had similar symptoms (reverse really hard to get into), and transmission rebuild took care of it. FYI reverse synchro can be serviced without removing the trans from the car, though the rear end still needs to come off to liberate the differential.

 

I haven’t noticed any fluid loss. I’ll try that.

 

I have aligned the shifter, replaced the lockout solenoid, and also did the “anti-venom” mod. With the engine not running, it shifts great.
Thanks though.

 

Was your’s easy to shift with the engine not running? That’s the part that leads me to believe clutch is not completely disengaging.

 

Honestly, I don't remember. It's been 3.5 years since I did all the big work including trans rebuild.

But, like you I initially guessed/hoped my issue was related to clutch not disengaging, and did everything I could prior to dropping the drivetrain (Tick MC, Katech remote clutch bleeder, shifter alignment, MGW shifter, softer reverse lockout spring, anti-venom mod, etc.)
You can drop the clutch inspection cover (after removing the midpipes, assuming no long tube headers) and watch the slave cylinder and pressure plate actuate. Then you can verify the clutch disk is free to wiggle.

Another quick/easy check you can do is see if you can shift into reverse more easily after going into a different gear (i.e. 2nd) before reverse. Doing this brakes / slows down the trans input shaft (kinda simulating when the engine is off) and makes it easier for reverse gear synchro to engage.
The standard synchro used on reverse isn't as good as the synchros used on most other gears, and as it wears out it will have a harder time braking the input shaft. This combined with worn synchro slider teeth can really make engaging reverse difficult.

One other thought... you mentioned air bubbles exiting your clutch bleeder. Which remote clutch bleeder are you using? It's possible the bleeder screw is allowing in air.

 

I have bled it using both a quick bleeder (new) and a normal bleed screw (new) with a vacuum pump.

 

Try the 2-person bleeding method with a normal bleeder screw.
Both of the methods you mentioned have (in my experience) managed to introduce air bubbles, even if just only to the bleeder screw.
Can also try a few turns of teflon tape or a thread sealant on the threads.