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03 Z06-- After removing crank pulley/balancer, and while doing other work, I have lost my mark on crank end to align new balancer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I could be wrong but I was under the impression that with a new after market balancer you can just stick it on there. I do recall something about the stock needing to installed in the same position.
One would think it would be keyed if it mattered, I am changing my this spring and was just going to stick it on there.
LS6 cranks with manual trans do not use keys. Due to my symptoms, I was drawn to the timing chain which is why I removed the pulley but eventually found a broken valve spring. However, thanks to your reply and a quick search I see some dampers are internally balanced. So, thank you. I will look into that.
Exactly!! I have no idea where these rumors start. The HB balancer is itself a balanced piece. It doesn't matter what orientation it is in, and no LS1 OR LS6 ever came with a keyed crank and balancer from GM.
I go to the shop manual first. Then on to experience if something just doesn't make sense or if I think that there has just got to be a better way!! Which I do find often. And the manual does say to mark crank, balancer MUST be installed to the original position. If replacing balancer, remove existing balance weights and install them on new balancer in the same position.
Why is that? I dodged a huge issue with the broken valve spring. Just wanting to avoid trouble that I can easily avoid.
I go to the shop manual first. Then on to experience if something just doesn't make sense or if I think that there has just got to be a better way!! Which I do find often. And the manual does say to mark crank, balancer MUST be installed to the original position. If replacing balancer, remove existing balance weights and install them on new balancer in the same position.
Why is that? I dodged a huge issue with the broken valve spring. Just wanting to avoid trouble that I can easily avoid.
Every other harmonic damper in the friggin' world is keyed ... except the LS. Someone obviously made a cut and paste error in that manual.
EDIT:
If you mark the crank,however, it may make things easier for other operations, such as valve spring removal / changes. But, this has nothing to do with the damper.
I'm working with a Dealer Shop Manual, and I do agree. Every pully that I have ever yanked over 40 years were keyed. Non the less, this crank is just as the book shows. Clean crank, no key, no slot for a key even if I wished it. The pully is clean also, no key slot.
So......are you sayin' just ignore it? Or ask more questions? Just an inquiring mind.
I'm working with a Dealer Shop Manual, and I do agree. Every pully that I have ever yanked over 40 years were keyed. Non the less, this crank is just as the book shows. Clean crank, no key, no slot for a key even if I wished it. The pully is clean also, no key slot.
So......are you sayin' just ignore it? Or ask more questions? Just an inquiring mind.
Ignore it. Just slap it on. I just did this operation and it’s fine. The engine is internally balanced.
I go to the shop manual first. Then on to experience if something just doesn't make sense or if I think that there has just got to be a better way!! Which I do find often. And the manual does say to mark crank, balancer MUST be installed to the original position. If replacing balancer, remove existing balance weights and install them on new balancer in the same position.
Why is that? I dodged a huge issue with the broken valve spring. Just wanting to avoid trouble that I can easily avoid.
The 2000 GM shop manual does have some mistakes. In one place in mine, they show the rod bearings as having a clearance of .02"!!!! I think maybe it was intended as a metric measurement, but dont know. I would post a pic, but manuals are 1,300 miles away, lol