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I was removing the bolt to clean the ground terminal under the battery and the stud that the bolt connects to is about to break off. Any idea what I need to do in this situation? Thanks
That's pretty ugly!
Obviously, after you deal with this mess, you will want to inspect the other eight main ground points. Remember that some of these main ground points also have a nearby ground splice that should also be inspected.
I wouldn't go out of my way to break that stud, but if it breaks it's not the end of the world. In fact, it may be so corroded that it may be unusable, even if you do manage not to break it. There is nothing magical about the location of that ground stud; it just happens to be conveniently placed. Should it break, you will need to replicate this ground situation somewhere convenient >>> a battery ground cable direct to either the engine block, or the chassis. These GM-style battery cables are available in many different lengths. A large gauge ground strap, or cable from the engine block to the chassis. And, lengthen the other two smaller ground cables so that you can connect them to your new chassis ground point. It should go without saying that these splices should be properly soldered and heat shrink applied.
That is nasty. If I faced this issue, I would first use a file to remove as much rust as possible on the top of the nut near the bolt stem hopefully exposing some of the stems threats into the bolt. Then I would douse the bolt with Kroil Penetrant oil for 24 hours. Using a pair of vice grip on the stem and use a wrench on the bolt, turn to loosen. If that did not work, then I would just drill another hole and relocate the wires.
The ground stud on the other side broke when I disassembled it for cleaning about ten years back. I drilled and tapped a hole in the same location, cleaned the frame and wire terminals to bare metal, dielectric greased and reassembled with a new bolt. Good ever since.
What I'm trying to figure out is how to attach a new bolt? The frame is like a box and i'm not sure how i can attach a bolt to it other than if i can find a self-tapping screw that will fit.
What I'm trying to figure out is how to attach a new bolt? The frame is like a box and i'm not sure how i can attach a bolt to it other than if i can find a self-tapping screw that will fit.
Just get yourself a hex head self tapping sheet metal screw….I’d also cut the ground wires back an inch or so and redo those too…make sure you have clean copper to work with.
What I'm trying to figure out is how to attach a new bolt? The frame is like a box and i'm not sure how i can attach a bolt to it other than if i can find a self-tapping screw that will fit.
Ideally, the best solution would be to weld the head of a bolt to the frame rail.
Alternatively, per@jim993 , you could try tapping the frame rail. Or, you could try a self tapping screw (probably the least desirable), or drill a hole and use a RIVNUT Nutsert. Nutserts are commonly available in both steel and aluminum. I would avoid aluminum due to concerns with corrosion due to dissimilar metals.
No matter what path you choose, be sure to treat the area with a corrosion preventative so that you never have to deal with this again.
EDIT:
Perhaps you could temporarily use a self tapping screw, so that you can then take your car to a local machine shop to see if they could weld a bolt, or install a Nutsert for you?
I got lucky when I removed the locknut the stud broke with about a half inch of threads. I cleaned all wires and where they connect to the frame and reattached the wires how they originally were and put a thin layer of dielectric grease. The new locknut I was able to find at Home Depot, it is M6-1.0mm Zinc.. i had to do some research if Zinc is ok to use and some say it caused interference and some say it's ok. Brass locknuts are expensive so I hope this zinc one works ok. Thank you all for all your help, I appreciate all your replies.
Here's a picture of how it looks.
The ground that Jim993 was talking about that is on the other side from the battery one looks like it's going to be the same problem...I will wait to see how the car is running before I mess with that one, it seems like it will be A LOT more difficult to reach because where it's located.
I got lucky when I removed the locknut the stud broke with about a half inch of threads. I cleaned all wires and where they connect to the frame and reattached the wires how they originally were and put a thin layer of dielectric grease. The new locknut I was able to find at Home Depot, it is M6-1.0mm Zinc.. i had to do some research if Zinc is ok to use and some say it caused interference and some say it's ok. Brass locknuts are expensive so I hope this zinc one works ok. Thank you all for all your help, I appreciate all your replies.
Here's a picture of how it looks.
Zinc plating is commonly used on nuts and bolts as a corrosion preventative. They should be fine for this application.
Battery ground terminal stud breaking
