It’s that time of year to pull the car out of storage and having a difficult time making sense of what’s causing some new issues that weren’t an issue last time the car was driven months ago.

1. Noticed security light flashing and dinging when drivers door was open with key removed from ignition.
2. Headlights function, low beam, high beam and on occasion driver side will open though passenger is stuck in closed position. 75% of the time when trying to get them to open they both remain closed. There is a very audible clicking sound coming from both lights when lights are turned to off position and ignition is off.
3. Running lights flicker, though extremely dim when ignition and key are removed.
4. All rear lights operate as they should, and turn off as they should. No issue there.

Battery hooked up to a tender, car cranks and starts immediately.

4-5 months ago everything was good, no issue at all. So the question is, what would cause all of this at once? I’m leaning toward headlight module though would that cause the door chime and security flashing? Also thought about maybe the multi switch on steering column but everything functions fine other than lights flipping up. I’m confused! Anyone experience the same issues together?

 

The Security light should flash with door open and no key in the Ignition switch, but it should not ding. The Ignition switch has a separate set of contacts that detect that the key is inserted, those contacts are actuated by a small rod, try spraying a dry lubricant into the switch. The headlights not working could be the headlight module or the plastic gears that are part of the headlight mechanism.

 

Yes ^. Security light flashes with the door open but does not ding.

If your lights were on with the door open it does ding.

 

I should have mentioned, the headlight gears have already been replaced. It’s not the typical sound of a failing gear. When the door is open there is a chime, not just the typical security flashing on the dash. Just find it extremely unusual that the ignition switch & head light module would fail simultaneously.

 

I’d start checking all the splice packs. MFS sounds ok to me… if the HL doors aren’t working in unison, I’d look at the door control module.

 

I think this is where I’ll start, the ignition / door chime may be a separate issue. Just weird how everything happened at once.

 

Headlight issue: Pull the connection between the motor and the module making sure the contacts are clean and tight. That is what fixed my issue.

 

Culprit #1 - 2 of the contacts are very corroded. What did you use to clean them?

 

"Culprit #1 - 2 of the contacts are very corroded. What did you use to clean them?" Answer: I disconnected the negative ground from the battery that I do whenever I mess with C5 electrical. 1) use wet/dry sand paper lightly on the connectors to remove the stuff, 2) squirt CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner in the connector to clean; 5). apply Dielectric Grease to the connectors.

After all is done make sure the connectors fit tightly. It worked for me.

 

Well, one thing let to another. Found to be getting voltage through my coolant (electrolysis) in a brand new radiator. Proceeded to find evidence of gunk in brand new coolant through sight glass. Isolated the radiator, issue went away. Went to ground the radiator and immediately noticed that the ground on the frame rail was hanging on by a thread. D&T through frame, will be attaching a new stud tomorrow and we’ll see if everything works properly again. Also, very throughly flushed the coolant! While things are apart decided to throw some new DRL’s in

 

Sand paper will only take it down to bare metal, and just promote more aggressive corrosion. Start with a nylon brush and contact cleaner. Blow it out with compressed air.

A huge no on the dielectric grease. Dielectric grease is an insulator, and will only increase the contact resistance. The connector itself has a seal to prevent water ingress.

 

Contact cleaner & Scotchbrite seemed to do the trick.