I have a '99 Vert A4, 9,000 miles & 3.15 gears. I have installed Corsa Indy's, Cyclone Air Induction and a Delco/Mongoose 400 SS package.

This package included the following:

Ignition Timing Tricker, Throttle Body Coolant Bypass, 180 Degree Thermostat, Max Modified Air Flow Sensor, Low Resistance Ignition System with Low Resistance Red Wires, Low Resistance Plugs, ported Throttle Body.

I was told this package @ $1,599.00 would yield 400hp @ the rear wheels. I also had a Hypertech PPlll installed a few months later by my mechanic.

Well, I had the car dyno'ed on a DynoJet system....307hp & 314 torque.. :U

Needless to say I was :mad :mad I called the person who installed the Delco/Mongoose package. He said, it may be the Dyno...and that I should have not put in the HPPlll. After a few dyno's we put it back to stock with the same results. He wants me back to look it over.

My question: should I just put back the original parts...eg: stock throttle body, stock thermostat, stock MAF, stock plugs & wires, stock timing, etc., and forget anymore time driving 2.5 hours...? I was told that these bolt on's could not produce 400hp.

Any one like the stock with a HPPlll..?

What should I do here....307hp :mad :cuss :cuss :mad

Thank you!!!

 

Well to be short the only way you would hit 400 at the wheels with your A4 is a good head/cam package, turbo, supercharger, or nitrous.

I would return everything to stock except the filter/exhaust if I was you as none of those mods really make a difference. The PPIII will do you some good with firming up your tranny.

I think they honestly mean 400 crank hp on an MN6, that would be somewhat believable if the kit included an aftermarket air intake.


[Modified by C5-VERT, 12:59 AM 1/29/2003]

 

To put it a nice way, it sounds like the salesman was not very honest with you. However, all these parts that you installed are common mods that are worth spending the money on. The exhaust is usually not a big HP booster, but they look and sound great. Being that you car is a 99', you may have needed to replace the plugs and ignition wires due to the age of the parts. Most ignition components do not offer a SOTP increase except maybe throttle response. You can never go wrong with a lower temp thermostat, but again this is not a big bump in performance. Throttle bodies and mass air sensors are usually not effective until after you have done some of the other mods, but again they are worth the money. A throttle body may not be worth anything on a stock motor, but after heads/cam it may be worth a solid 7HP at the rear wheels.

It has been proven in the past that some mods complement each other. For example: I installed a throttle body on an LT1 engine that gave around 7 HP. Next, I installed a cat back exhause that was worth around 9HP. Then, I installed them both and saw a combined total of about 20 HP (more than both parts were worth seperately).

You just took a slightly different route in picking which mods to do first. This could be considered a GOOD thing. A car in top running condition will be more responsive to mods than one that requires attention. Now, when you install a 2001 or newer intake manifold, you may see a HP increase on the high end. Same may go for a header install. BTW, only install headers if you get long tubes.

Keep at it and you will be satisfied with the results you get.

 

hey Jesse....shoot me an email as a reminder and I'll lend what info I can :)

 

There is no way the mods that you had installed is ever going to yield 400 rwhp. On an LS1, especially with an A4, there are only 2 ways to get that much hp, either heads and cam or supercharger.

 

Get your money back !!! :bb
You're gonna have a lot of heart burn going this route.

*** Call ->> http://www.norris-motorsports.com/ <<- ***

 

Thank you all for your input and advice! :cheers: :seeya

 

Mark, will do. Thank you! :cheers:

 

Ignition Timing Tricker 2-5rwhp depending on air conditions
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass 0-2 rwhp
180 Degree Thermostat 0 rwhp
Max Modified Air Flow Sensor 2-10rwhp
Low Resistance Ignition System 0rwhp is stock is sufficient
Low Resistance Red Wires :rolleyes:
Low Resistance Plugs :rolleyes:
Ported Throttle Body 5+rwhp on a modified car
I dont know what the vendor was thinking. These mods are NOT hp mods.
Phillip

 

That Shaner Throttle Body is nice, though. As for the $1,500+ for these, you have got to be kidding me. The salesman is lying to you. There just is no way!!

 

Thanks Phillip...


Thanks for your input. I am trying to get a full refund... :yesnod:

 

I would tell the company that sold you this bill of goods that they have two choices. They can do the right thing and refund your money or you can sue them for false advertising and also expose them on this forum for the thieves and liars they are.

 

I have recommended choice one to them and they refused. I am going to contact the site in which they are a vendor and attempt to get the site owners to help settle the matter, if not, I will move on to legal action.

Thanks for the info... :cheers: :thumbs:

 

Sorry to say, you just got SCAMMED . You paid $1599 for about $200 worth of crap. :cry

307rwhp sounds about right for those mods. The shop sounds like its praying on people with fat wallets and an ignorance about mods. If I were you I'd be :mad right about now.

Stuff like this makes me so mad. This is why I started learning about cars because I didn't want to be made a fool of like this. Spread the word about the con-artists.


[Modified by jmX, 9:30 PM 1/29/2003]

 

I'll break down the parts for you here:
1) Ignition timing tricker is a $0.10 cent resistor
2) Throttlebody bypass is a $1 hose coupler
3) Thermostat costs a shop $40
4) Modded air sensor, either they did a free mod, or paid $40 for some metal "ends" that go on the sensor. I'd guess they did the free mods to yours.
5) Low resistance ignition system..lol..this one cracks me up. $12 for NGK TR55 spark plugs and $45 for GM "performance" red wires
6) Ported throttle body, this is free except labor. Took me about 2 hours work to do mine. $50 an hour for these con artists brings it to $100.

All of that stuff can be installed in about 2 hours. Maybe they make $600 an hour? :rant:

 

To say the least..you got:

 

Take the money you get refunded and put a set of 3.42 gears in the rear and be prepared to hang on... :smash:

 

:yesnod: :thumbs: Thanks...

 

Jesse, I am sorry about the misunderstanding. I hope everything works out for you my friend :cheers:

 

I can't count the number of times I've seen a lot of hard earned cash go out on either unproven mods or combinations of mods that impact performance and reliability which actually reduces your net power. With that said... May I suggest the following:

1. Keep your cat-back exhaust if you like the quality and sound of the system.

2. Replace the stock filter/housing. A cyclone unit was mentioned. This should work fine, however, if the issue of ingesting water from the shroud-fed unit is a concern, then an excellent option is the Donaldson Blackwing unit. A new shroud may be required if you go with the Donaldson due to the shroud being previously modified.

3. Upgrade to the factory '02 Z06 MAF sensor (not a calibrated/moded unit). This is available from PACE Performance. Also obtain from PACE, the harness adapter, new coupling and clamps. I just recently purchased these myself for ~$192.00. Remember, you'll have to replace parts as they wear out and you need to be able to obtain the same replacement part from anywhere in the country. Also if using the stock air bridge, you'll need to remove IAT sensor and plug/seal the opening left. This mod will help by giving smoother more accurate idle A/F setting as well as a finer resolution of the air flow measurement to calculate the proper A/F required.

4. To take full advantage of the MAF conversion you need to have the MAF tables set to the stock '02 Z06 tables.

5. Upgrade to the 3.42:1 differential (This will require a PCM mod to set the proper value for the differential. The HPPIII can do this for you.)

6. Install a set of long tube headers (FLP or TPIS) and if not coated, have them Jet-Hot or HPC ceramic coated inside and out to reduce the engine compartment heat.

7. Install a slightly higher stall torque converter (with a stock cam 2000-2400 stall) This will slightly impact factory drivibility. To minimize the impact stay around 2000RPM.

8. Then obtain LS1Edit along with AutoTap's EFILivePro and have the PCM professionally tuned on a Dynojet dyno with a wide band O2 sensor. Arrange to be able to keep the unlocked data files loaded for future replacements or additional mods. You want the PCM programming mods to be unlocked so you can view the changes performed where others or yourself can help later with any future tuning. Use EFILive to log the data from the PCM so you can determine if adjustments will be needed or to troubleshoot future problems.

These mods will definitely give you a SOTP improvement. You may not get to 400RWHP but it will feel like it. Hope this helps.

Phil


[Modified by Philip Long, 9:19 AM 1/30/2003]