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I just bought a 2000 Corvette Convertible with an aftermarket air cleaner. It has a red tube running from on top of the tube and running down under the front end. It's not connected securely and I wonder if it has anything to do with the bog I have when I push the pedal down to take off a little faster than normal or hit passing gear. I'll include a pic of the setup, but I just don't know where the tube goes once it disappears so I can check the other side. I'm new to being a Corvette owner and am still feeling my way around the car a bit to get it all in order.
The shitty two cone air intake is where I would start. The tube runs to the AIR pump in the drivers side wheel well, they typically have hose clamps holding them on the pump side so I doubt that is your issue.
I agree the two cone air intake isn't the best, but it's all I have for now. I removed it, cleaned the filters and lightly oiled them and more importantly cleaned the mass air flow sensor with the proper cleaner. I also removed the throttle body, cleaned it, replaced the rubber gasket and reinstalled it. I haven't tried it out on the road, but it seems to idle better and free rev, so there's that. I'll test it out tomorrow on the road to see how it's doing. I've included before and after shots of the throttle body for comparison.
Will do that in the morning, along with a test drive. I know there was a lot of codes stored in the car, but I didn't write them down, so that is on my agenda, thanks for your comments
The shitty two cone air intake is where I would start. The tube runs to the AIR pump in the drivers side wheel well, they typically have hose clamps holding them on the pump side so I doubt that is your issue.
Look up your codes. The engine will tell you what’s going on. All those items you cleaned if they were affecting performance the car would be throwing codes
checked the codes stored in the car and none of them were for engine related problems. The only current code was for the actuator door for the hvac system. I also took it out for a drive and it's better, but not
what I would consider normal for a car with 345 hp. Perhaps a tune up is in order, or maybe I just leave well enough alone and concentrate on the air conditioning that's not working. Thank you for your response
the sales information sheet said it has a Corsa performance exhaust and a performance intake manifold, past that I'm blind. I don't see any outward mods, and any that have been done appear to have been there for some time
i would change it back to the stock airbox. That filter set up is just garbage. Car shouldn’t need a tune.
I would do plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc.
That was my next step, that and when this tank is low I'll fill it up with premium. I know a lot of people cheap out and put regular in it. I understand that if you're just using it as a daily driver and not interested in performance,
but according to the manual it should take 91 or better octane for optimum performance. So many other little things to fix, like the HVAC display dimness, HUD dimness, the left side HVAC actuator door, and several other
things. The biggest of which is the air conditioning. I put two cans of freon in it 2 days ago and by morning it was gone, so that will be a major setback. Such is the life of a car guy. Thanks again!
The Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system helps reduce Hydrocarbon (HC), Carbon Monoxide (CO), and Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) exhaust emissions. It also helps to warm up the 3-way catalytic converters quickly on engine start-up so conversion of exhaust gases can occur sooner.
The PCM turns ON the AIR pump during startup any time engine coolant temperature is above -10°C (14°F). The AIR pump will operate for a maximum of 240 seconds, or until the system enters Closed Loop operation. At the same time the PCM turns the AIR pump OFF, it also de-energizes the integral stop valve solenoid so no air is directed to the exhaust ports.
Wow, very informative. So that is how EGR works too?
I was under the impression EGR Moves exhaust gas back to the intake manifold whereas AIR moves fresh air into the exhaust system. Completely different.
Good information. I did already watch a video on fixing the hvac screen and have completed that one successfully. I'm not the best soldering person, but it worked, lol
I've adjusted the dim switch on the hud and in the daylight it's nearly impossible to see, but then again, if you've never had one how could you miss having it...
I'm intrigued by the video of changing the actuator without removing the dash. There's some investigating to do, I hope that can work because I've watched the dash removal and it's not pretty.
As far as the AC, I'll look at those seals before I proceed with other options. I've see videos of the orifice tubes and it does appear that they are an overlooked item in the system.
Good info, and thank you as usual, you've been very helpful. I try to be helpful to people myself when I have knowledge that I can share as well. It's a lost art that should be passed along.
correct. Most c5 owners mistakenly call the air system egr. All in all they are
both useless hahaha
EGR if used properly can improve fuel economy and cool the combustion chamber making it a handy feature to have access to. It gets a bad rap because if you do not periodically maintain and clean the EGR system it becomes carbon fouled up, clogged, something like that. And some manufacturers do not have well designed EGR components which fail. In the theme of keeping it simple the EGR is unwelcome however the IDEA of EGR if implemented in a maintenance free manner is actually desirable if it could be done unobtrusively.
one of those things that sounds good in theory and works good in practice but has an impractical long term influence overall for various reason related to the state of technology and effort allowed on behalf of engineers, cost of components, etc....
If this tube isn't securely connected, it could be causing a vacuum leak or not providing a steady stream of air, which can mess up the engine's performance. Air leaks can throw off the air-to-fuel ratio, which might be why your engine bogs down when you accelerate.
If this tube isn't securely connected, it could be causing a vacuum leak or not providing a steady stream of air, which can mess up the engine's performance. Air leaks can throw off the air-to-fuel ratio, which might be why your engine bogs down when you accelerate.
Also incorrect. Leave that tube off and your only immediate risk is the AIR system and the engine sucking unfiltered air.
air cleaner tube causing bogging?
