When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am in the process of building my own stroker motor using the 6.0 block. I was thinking of using the stock crank but didn't know how much it would hold up to.I am wanting to shoot a 200~300 shot on top of it.
What size of cams are everyone using? I currently have a 226/230 .571/.575 114lsa. I am thinking I might need more duration.I am going to give some of the forum vendors a call tomorrow to see about getting a self installed stroker kit.
But am also curious about using the stock crank and maybe having it hardened.I am not so worried about having the stroker motor( I really want it though:D) as much as having a very stout bottom end to handle the nitrous.Help me out guys :cheers:
The stock cranks are very stout and can be nitrated and heat cycled to make sure they are up to the challenge. If you want more cubes, then upgrade to a 4.000" or 4.125" crank.
From: Elmhurst, IL (West Suburb of Chicago) & Home of MEGA Horsepower
St. Jude Donor '06
Re: 382~427 Owners Come Inside (MY1Fast99C5)
As we speak MTI is building me a 427 6.0 liter ironblock, which will stay naturally aspirated and will utilize a 4.060 overbore and 4.125 crank. I am going with MTI's ball to the wall hyd. S1 cam with specs of 244/244, with a .612 lift and 112lsa.
If your going 6 liter and unlikeme planning on big bouts of spray, then i think your best bet is boring the ironblock to 4.030 (the most you can bore with big spray or F/I) and may as well do it right and spend the extra money for a 4.00 crank which would put you at 408 beautiful cubic inches. I would match this motor to the best heads that you can afford to buy and professionally matched with the most aggressive cam you can choose that also loves the N20 (gas). This engine with the best forged internals should be fairly well bullet proof and ready for some big shots of N20 and 10.0 to high 9 second time slip! :smash: :crazy:
Otherwise, talk to some of the top engine builders about using your stock crank and off setting it, which i believe could put you close to around 390 cubes or so, but my vote is for a forged 4.00 stroker crank with 4.030 bore and 408 cubes! :D
If you have it apart, and are spending the money, I would go with a Lunati crank, especially if you plan on a 200-300 shot. I am adding a direct port nitrous system to mine right now, and also plan on 200-300 shot. I have a complete Lunati lower end. To me it's just piece of mind! :yesnod:
a nitrided stock crank will hold up fine. many of your machine shops can perform that process for you on your crank. Having it checked for runout and all journals inspected. you can bore the 6.0L block out more if you have the water jackets filled with Rock Block or some other hardener. this will hold up fine to the nitrous. I am bored 4.08" on the 6L block and use copious amounts of nitrous because of this fact. I also have a stock crank offset ground and nitrided. motor is very stout, was built for nitrous (forged nitrous pistons, rods, rock block-filled) and best of all it was $7K cheaper than my super-stroker bretheren.
The stock cranks are very stout and can be nitrated and heat cycled to make sure they are up to the challenge. If you want more cubes, then upgrade to a 4.000" or 4.125" crank.