When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Problem: Cold start, there is absolutely no electrical power (except maybe some rapid clicking). Jump box attached to the battery cable bolts has no effect. Disconnect the battery and reconnect it and everything works totally normal again.
I found instructions below on establishing the link between BCM and ECU on a BCM seller's site.
Q: Would it be safe to do this "handshake" procedure? I'd hate to mess up anything.
Q: Do you think it would do any good?
Q: Has anyone had good experience with the "rebuilt" BCM sold by O'Reily's and other mass market auto parts stores?
Preparation Steps:
Battery Check: Make sure your battery is fully charged and in optimal condition, as a low battery can cause interruptions in the process.
Radio Off: To avoid any disturbances, turn off your radio.
Window Down: Roll down the driver’s window. This way, you can easily reach inside to adjust the ignition without opening the door.
Doors Shut: Throughout the procedure, it is advisable to keep both doors closed. This will prevent the battery from draining due to interior light and help ensure a seamless programming experience. It is important to note that even if you accidentally open one of the doors, the programming will not be affected. However, it is always better to be cautious and keep both doors closed at all times.
Programming Your Reflashed BCM:
1. Connect the Body Control Module to the vehicle.
2. Insert your key into the ignition. Turn it to the RUN position.
Tip: The run position is where the key stops naturally without force. DO NOT crank the engine.
3. Keep the key in the run position for at least 10 minutes.
4. Now, turn the car to the off position and wait for at least 15 seconds. This marks the end of the first cycle.
5. Repeat step 2, turning the key to the run position and waiting for 10 minutes.
6. Turn the car off again and wait for 15 seconds. You’ve now completed the second cycle.
7. Once more, turn the key to the run position and leave it there for 10 minutes.
8. Turn the car to the off position, this time waiting for 30 seconds. Congratulations! The third and final cycle is now completed.
Battery is new Optima red top installed before buddy drove 1200 miles (with only one nap) to his AZ home.
I don't really think it's the anti-theft system as the entire electrical system is dead, not just the starting system. Am I wrong?
When ever you have to disconnect and reconnect the battery in order to start the car points to the BCM, but make sure all your battery cables are tight including the one that provides power to the engine and interior fuse boxs.
To the OP, please elaborate on no power, when you turn the key to start the car do you have the dash light up, indicators should light up, the gauges should sweep. Need more detailed information because it could also be Ignition switch problem.
I'll get detailed info from my buddy this weekend. I have not personally witnessed it as he's in another state now.
BTW, we replaced the previous redtop Optima with a new redtop Optima because the old battery seemed to be totally dead. It would not charge with my Ctek so I tried my old school buzzbomb charger. The old charger would peg the meter and then cut-off (internal circuit breaker) for a minute or so. We concluded the old battery was a dead short - but after removal it seemed to charge normally. We did not load test the old battery so not certain if it is good or bad. New battery installed, it fired up right away. I'm wondering if we were actually experiencing the current issue and didn't know it.
I dealt with a similar issue of needing to disconnect the battery in order to get the car to start. This particular car had minor water damage to the BCM. It turned out that 2 of the relays on the circuit board had corrosion near them. I had un-soldered them and cleaned the board then re installed. The car has been ok for the last 15yrs after doing this.
This may not be your friends issue, need more info on what the car is doing.
Dead 2001 MT Coupe has happened two times within a week's time.
Unlock with key fob, open door, interior lights come on normally.
Insert key in ignition switch and turn to run position. Gauge needles sweep and dash lights up normally.
Depress clutch pedal, turn key to start position, all power cuts off, no starter action of any type.
The first time the problem occurred, there was a clicking sound "under the battery" which could have actually been in the passenger kick panel area. The second time the problem occurred, he says there was no ticking.
Disconnect one of the battery leads at the battery, reconnect, all systems act normal and he drives away.
Clicking sound usually occur because of low battery voltage. The no power statement ment that the starter did not energize which means that the BCM is the likely culprit. There are several businesses that specialize in repairs to automotive electronics modules or you can buy one and perform the relearn procedure.
Hey lucky 131969 maybe you can offer some help instead of sarcasm, your title is tech contributor not sarcasm contributor.
Merely citing what has not been done....no sarcasm was intended. If my post triggered you, contact the moderators with your complaint, and they will remove the post if they deem necessary.
Buddy reports no codes stored. He checked the ICP and also using his code reader.
He checked the Insane Clown Posse ? ( sorry that's sarcasm ) I believe you mean "DIC" .....
I'm trying to understand the relationship between you and your friend. Are you onsite with him evaluating the car? Who is doing the work, and do they have a multimeter? Why isn't your friend asking the questions?
His buddy is in another state, no mention of his buddy's car knowledge or mechanical or electrical skills, trying to help somebody through a middle man.