I have a 97 base model with a wobbly harmonic balancer that needs to go. I went over the tensioners and pullies and they felt pretty rough so I want to replace them plus the water pump while I'm at it.
Since I have limited experience with GM cars(only owned EU cars up until now) I'm a little unsure about what manufacturers are reliable and could use a sanity check on my shopping bag.

DAYCO PB1117N Harmonic Balancer
I know many on the forum love the ATI harmonic balancers but unfortunately with shipping, taxes and import fees it would be over $500 more expensive when compared to PowerBond, and I have a hard time motivating that extra expense. The PB seems like a decent option but I'd be keen to hear what you think.

ARP 234-2503 Balancer Bolt Kit
Seemed solid and I like that it's spec'd in torque instead of degrees.

GM Genuine Parts 296-02 Engine Front Cover Seal
Figured I couldn't go wrong with oem. Was about the same price as alternatives.

ACDelco Professional 252-846 Engine Water Pump
From what I understand ACDelco makes a lot of the OEM parts so I figured it was a safe bet. Comes with gaskets.

MotoRad 524KT Thermostat and Housing
I'm a little unsure if I need this. But I read that water pumps from 04 and forward was of a different design and needs a new thermostat housing. I've used MotoRad before so that's mainly why I picked this. Comes with gasket.

Gates 90K-38194 Complete Serpentine Belt Drive Component Kit
Gates 90K-38196 Complete Serpentine Belt Drive Component Kit
Kits for AC and accessory side belts with pulley, tensioner and belt. No clue if Gates are reliable or not, reviews seemed fine. Thinking about getting new bolts too.

Dayco 71981 Upper Radiator Hose
Dayco 71983 Lower Radiator Hose
Current hoses are getting a bit cronchy so I figured I should go for new ones. Dayco seems to make decent HBs so I figured they know their rubber.

I can borrow puller, installer and flywheel lock from a friend.
Thanks!

 

I would order the AC Delco p/n 251-744. Yes it's more expensive, it's also better quality. The thermostat bolts and gaskets are included.

You are correct. Unless you find an NOS pump, the replacement pump like the 251-744 will not accept the old LS1 housing. I went with the ACDelco p/n 15-11057 includes the housing, gasket, and thermostat.

Order replacement bolts for the water pump. 3 out of 6 of mine were corroded. You can get them under the GM number or ARP.

 

That seems resonable. 251-744 is the same as GM Genuine right?
Great! Thanks for the confirming that. And new bolts sounds like a solid idea.

You don't happen to know what the p/n is for the pulley and tensioner bolts? I'm struggling to find it.

I really appreciate the help! Thanks!

 

Correct. OEM !

I do not. I reused mine.

 

Cool cool. Maybe it'll be fine then Thanks again!

 

Save yourself an hour or so ..no need to remove the starter or use the fly wheel lock

Summit balancer lock plate is an Excellent Time saving Alternative

Excellent Tool for any future LS work


While you are at at the Summit eight rib balancer

… is the way to go if you ever intend to to go HD Supercharger
​​

 

So grain of salt to be taken from everyone obviously.

On my 03 Z I did a Fluidampr instead of ATI for my own reasons. It's a bit different to install but from my experience I will say a crows foot for the power steering lines help a ton.

As long as you have a good torque wrench with some flex to the head you will have enough room to do anything.

I believe you can use an LS2 water pump with the same size pulley and two piece thermostat housing which just has better flow. It could be the LS3/7 that is more popular with Spec Vette racing and easier to fit.

For belts, Bando is the OE supplier for many brands and I use them exclusively after issues with Gates in my Land Cruiser and Subarus.

You can rent a Chrysler Balancer tool from a part store and the "OEM Tools" branded balancer installer will work fine.

I didn't have to use a flywheel holder any time I have done a balancer.

I just get the balancer bolt out with an impact. My M12 Stubby did it fine but I did use canned air held upside down to freeze the bolt.
Some people use a breaker bar, have the car in gear, on the ground, e-brake on and wheels blocked with some success.

It's more work to get the starter off and back on with headers so it's not worth dealing with that.

 

That sounds interesting but I can't seem to find anything like that on Summit. Do you remember if it had a p/n?
And I don't see my self going forced induction to be honest. I might go with spicy cam and headers later on if I have the budget but I'll probably stick with NA.

I've heard good things about Fluidampr, but they unfortunately fall in the same category as ATI for me right now and are just prohibitively expensive to get to this side of the pond.

Is this different than the 2004 and onward pump though? I got the impression that the 2004 LS1 water pump was more or less identical to the LS2 water pump.


Interesting. I was planning on to just ugga dugga the bolt out but I figured that torquing the new bolt down to 235ft-lbs would require fixing the crank. Putting down the rear on the ground while the front is on the lift sounds a little bit sketchy though.


Thanks to both of you for the feedback!

 

For the water pumps it's the LS3 (searched it again) pump that weighs less & flows better. The only difference is the thermostat and how you will need to cut the LS6 hose. Should also be easier to get the belt on too. Lots of people also bypass the throttle body warming hose when doing so as well.

You should be able to install the Power bond or other balancer just the same without putting a flywheel locker on but it's up to you. I have Quickjacks so it was easy to lower the car with the rack gone, zip out the bolt with all wheels on the ground, then raise it back up.
​​​​​​As for getting the new balancer torqued, ARP has their instructions which is basically Ugga Dugga the old bolt on, torque it to xxx then remove, install lubed up ARP bolt as instructed, and Ugga it tight then torque to xxx.

FWIW I'm deeply against pinning a crank for numerous reasons and have a about 20k miles on my new balancer with 20 track weekends and dozens of Autocross events. I bolt check the vehicle every other event and it's not changed since the install.
​​​​​​

 

Look up “Toys for Life” You Tube

Several threads related to this

Best And Fastest. …. By Far

Is the “Cradle Drop”. Method Along with the Summit Tool Above

No need to Remove Rack or Starter

and Install torque is taken up by the summit tool

no reason to have the rear on the ground. Ect.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-906007


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-906008?rrec=true

 

This led me down a rabbit hole. Seems like there are some gains to it but I'm kinda wondering if it will actually make a difference, you know what I mean? Something I didn't find a clear answer to was the diameter of the inlet and outlet, supposedly it's larger than on the LS1/LS6 so I'm a bit unsure on how the C5 hoses will fit. I will need to dig deeper.

That's a fair point. In my mind I was thinking no rack - no wheels. I got access to a proper lift so shouldn't be a big deal.

Yeah I feel a bit hesitant about pinning as well and wasn't planning on doing it. Like maybe if I was doing a drag build but my C5 is mostly stock and my summer daily driver.
I really appreciate the feedback. Thank you!

Okay I might actually need to get that wrench plate. That'd make things a lot easier. Thank you so much!
I have watched some of Toys4Lifes videos but haven't seen the cradle drop. Will definitely look that up.

 

I have the Cheaper one and used grade 8 bolts if I recall correctly

​​​​​​ Either plate will work

Search cradle drop on this forum

and you’ll probably find the process and some comments

be careful to Avoid using an Impact on motor mount bolts. They are an internal weld nut and it’s best not to risk breaking it loose. And same when reinstalling


FOUND IT!

excellent detail if you read through this thread

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ring-rack.html

…. read the above thread thoroughly there are a lot of really good tips involved in it be absolutely certain that you lock your steering wheel straight I use ratchet straps to avoid any clock spring problem…



I am up to another one myself …starting next Friday.

Good Stuff!!

 

I think I might try to fabricate one my self. With shipping, import tax and fees even the cheaper one would be about $150. We have a cnc plasma cutter and mill at the shop and and I could use a good excuse to screw around a bit.
That certainly seems like a quicker way to do it, but to be honest I'm a little bit worried about balance if I'm gonna support the engine with something like a transmission jack. The hoist points(hockey pucks) are so damn close together, it sketches me out. But maybe that's just me

Again, thanks. I appreciate the input.