I'm a basic DIYer and want to change the stock Rotors and Calipers on my C5. Does anyone have any step by steps to guide me through the process. I didn't see anything listed when I searched. Help would be much appreciated.

Thanks :confused:

 

It is pretty simple.
2 bolts on the back of the caliper. You need a open ended wrench and socket to get these off. Remove the Edit: Caliper and do not let it hang by the brake line. Then comes the fun part. You need to remove the caliper bracket. These bolts have a 162 ft/lb torque spec and they really crank them on from the factory. I had to lay on the floor and crank it with my foot to break free. Once the bracket is off you simply pull the rotors off. On the rear make sure the parking brake is off. My fronts came right off. My rear rotors needed a little tapping from a hammer to break them free. I just hit it a few times around the studs gently and it came off. Good luck. :cheers:


[Modified by fdupny, 4:47 PM 2/5/2003]

 

Think that's supposed to be "caliper". Also, I had to get pretty aggressive with my rear rotors to come off due to the parking brake. But, they DID come off. ;)

Have a good one,
Mike

 

Hey.....Thanks. I really appreciate it. Did you have to bleed the brake lines? Doesn't sound like it from your description, but I just wanted to make sure.

Thanks again.....
:cheers:

 

If you're changing calipers, you will certainly need to bleed...

 

This is taken from the GM manual. I inserted my pics.

Replacement of the bolts is up to you.

No bleeding needed if you are just changing the pads and rotors.

I would highly recommend that you flush your brake fluid every 2 years at the latest, more often for track use. I would install speedbleeders from http://www.speedbleeder.com to make this alot easier.


Brake Caliper Bracket Replacement - Front
Removal Procedure

Caution
Do not move the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Failure to obtain a firm pedal before moving vehicle may result in personal injury.




Remove the brake caliper from the mounting bracket and support the brake caliper (2) with heavy mechanic's wire (1), or equivalent; do NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement - Front .

Watch your brake reservoir level, when you compress the caliper pistons the fluid level will increase in the reservoir.
Install large C-clamp (2) over the body of the brake caliper (1) with the C-clamp ends against the rear of the caliper body and against the outboard brake pad.
Tighten the C-clamp (2) evenly until the caliper pistons are compressed into the caliper bores enough to allow the caliper to slide past the brake rotor.
Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.









Remove the brake pads (2) from the brake caliper bracket (3).

Remove the brake pad retainers (1) from the brake caliper bracket (3).

Caution
These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.




Remove the brake caliper mounting bracket bolts and washers.




Discard the brake caliper mounting bracket bolts. These bolts are 21mm and are very tight.

Remove the brake caliper mounting bracket from the knuckle.
Inspect the brake caliper bracket.
Replace the brake caliper bracket if cracked or damaged.
Clean all the bolt adhesive residue from the brake caliper mounting bracket and the knuckle mating surfaces.


Remove the rotor retainers with a 3/8" deep socket applied with lite hand pressure to get them started, Then with gloves on turn and pull the retainers off.



Remove the brake rotor.
Installation Procedure



Important
Whenever the rotor has been separated from the wheel bearing flange, clean any rust or contaminants from the wheel bearing flange and the brake rotor mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in increased lateral runout of the brake rotor, and brake pulsation.


Use the J 42450-A in order to clean any rust or corrosion from the wheel hub surface. I just used a wire brush to clean the area.





Install the brake rotor over the wheel studs onto the wheel bearing flange.

Installation Procedure




Install the brake caliper mounting bracket to the knuckle. the part # for the new bolts are 14067559.

Caution
These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Install the two NEW brake caliper mounting bracket bolts and washers. The new brake caliper mounting bracket bolts will come with an adhesive already applied to the threads. Tighten
Tighten the front brake caliper mounting bracket bolts to 175 N·m (125 lb ft).

Lubricate the brake caliper pin bolts with high temperature silicone lubricant.



Install the brake pad retainers (1) to the brake caliper bracket (3).
Install the brake pads (2) to the brake caliper bracket (3).
Install the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement - Front .

With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.
Slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 11-12 until a firm brake pedal apply is obtained; this will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the proper level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.

Burnishing Pads and Rotors

Road Test Safety Caution
Road test a vehicle under safe conditions and while obeying all traffic laws. Do not attempt any maneuvers that could jeopardize vehicle control. Failure to adhere to these precautions could lead to serious personal injury and vehicle damage.


Burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system.

This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.

Select a smooth road with little or no traffic.
Accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h (30 mph).

Important
Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step.


Using moderate to firm pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop. Do not allow the brakes to lock.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods between stops in order to properly burnish the brake pads and rotors.

 

Good luck pulling the rear ones. If your parking brake is adjusted right you're gonna be doing alot of swearing.

 

GMBlack3,

Outstanding description!!!

If I hadn't done it myself, I would not have appreciated how accurate your procedure was, even if it is borrowed from the manual.

Good pictures, they make it all become clear.

Tom :cheers:

 

This is great....just what I was looking for. Many thanks to all for the excellent assist! :hurray:

 

Just finished my complete brake job and offer a few things:
1) Use a cheater bar to break loose the Caliper Bracket Bolts. My wrench slipped off, hit my lip on the top of the rotor, wham 3 stitches to the upper lip. Got them out yesterday. (Insert "I'm with stupid") Clean the bolts good, use locktite when put back in and torque to spec.
2) You can re-use the caliper bolts, but, make sure they are clean and recoat with loctite. I cleaned mine with Naptha and wire brush.
3) You shouldn't have to re-bleed if you use the same calipers. Never-the-less, it's a good idea to install SpeedBleeders and flush your system out. Use a good Synthetic High Temp Fluid.
4) If you install a cross drill and/or slotted rotor and it's treated with an anti-rust coating, be cognizant of the "seasoning" method for the rotor, then the "bedding" method for the pads. Look at rotor instructions.
Just my opinion of course. Good Luck!!!

:cheers: :blueangel: :cheers: :thumbs: