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in my earlier post I was checking for a water pump leak when I saw that my balancer had moved. had marked it a couple years ago with white out as a witness mark. they moved about a couple inches apart. now weighing my options. option number one is have my career mechanic and current LS racer friend replace it which I'm leaning that way. it's winter here and no heat in the pole building. option two is me do it this spring. I think I probably could but i would be very slow with this repair. I just turned 78 so I would have to pace myself. I have done all the repairs on the c5 since I bought it myself. i have seen a gazillion repairs on how to do this, some easier than others. it looks like if you removed the rack your there. when I replaced my ac compressor with a four seasons kit last summer I watched a video where the member just removed the thermo housing and jacked the engine up about an inch and removed the compressor without removing the water pump. that's what I did and it worked out well. I was just wondering if you could do the same and get high enough past the rack to remove and replace the balancer. looks like a close call down there. don't know if you would hit something on the top side if you got the engine that high or if it just won't work out. to get that ac compressor out did not go very high. always nervous when jacking the engine but my friend said it should not be a problem when going up an inch or so. I'm going out and look under in a few minutes and give it an eyeball test. with some of the special tools needed or rented i'm thinking more about option one.
Since you have an early car like I do, it is ridiculously easy to get the whole entire rack and pump assembly out in one piece since there is no EBCM in the way.
If you are gonna have the water pump out anyways I would consider yanking the radiator out as well which is literally just 4 more 10mm bolts giving you wide open room to work.
I personally would not mess with jacking the motor up or dropping the cradle in this instance (I've done both for various reasons in the past).
thanks for the response Black. it's nice to see someone mention the EBCM. just came back in from the barn and jacking the engine up is a no go. never removed a rack but looks like it might not be as bad as i think. do you have to remove the lines and i'll have to look at some video's to see which side to remove it or can you tie it up out of the way? my guy said i could use his remover and installer if i decide to do it myself. also the tool that keeps the crank from turning is a must have. i always get a little nervous about a repair like this but they seem to be good to go when done. i'll probably have to just dive in and figure things out when confronted with them.
thanks for the response Black. it's nice to see someone mention the EBCM. just came back in from the barn and jacking the engine up is a no go. never removed a rack but looks like it might not be as bad as i think. do you have to remove the lines and i'll have to look at some video's to see which side to remove it or can you tie it up out of the way? my guy said i could use his remover and installer if i decide to do it myself. also the tool that keeps the crank from turning is a must have. i always get a little nervous about a repair like this but they seem to be good to go when done. i'll probably have to just dive in and figure things out when confronted with them.
I've done it both ways. Removing the lines and removing the rack, pump, lines, and reservoir in one complete unit. When I removed the whole unit the radiator was out though.
Taking the lines off and removing the rack itself is super easy, it's just messy.
Last edited by Mr. Black; Nov 29, 2024 at 01:03 PM.