When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I need a wiring harness extension for the coil packs. Actually only need 1, for just drivers side. Reason being I need to temporarily remove the coil pack from the valve cover. Doing this because I have a lifter issue. I want to be able to run the engine without the valve cover mounted so I can see just what is going on, and which lifter(s) is collapsing, or stuck. Thanks guys.....
Mike, just do a “clear flood crank” and you can watch the valve train !!…hold the gas pedal to the floor while starting the car and the engine will just crank…you will not get spark or injector pulse…you don’t need the engine running.
Hi Rob. I don't know if I can see what I need to see from the drivers seat. I don't have anyone I can trust to hold the pedal to the floor. With my luck, they'd let up on it slightly and send the cold engine to 7k!!!
Hi Rob. I don't know if I can see what I need to see from the drivers seat. I don't have anyone I can trust to hold the pedal to the floor. With my luck, they'd let up on it slightly and send the cold engine to 7k!!!
My understanding is the main connector between the main harness and coil pack sub harness is the same on all LS motors but the connector beetween the coil pack and coil pack sub harness varies from coil pack to coil pack.
If you need longer and don't have the tools to pin your own harness, we were talking with EFI Connection to make a harness but the friend made his own connections.
With a checker. Problem is, theres no tick when coolant temp is under 160°. From there until 190°, it just starts tapping louder and louder. I need to find what lifter is collapsing/stuck......
My understanding is the main connector between the main harness and coil pack sub harness is the same on all LS motors but the connector beetween the coil pack and coil pack sub harness varies from coil pack to coil pack.
If you need longer and don't have the tools to pin your own harness, we were talking with EFI Connection to make a harness but the friend made his own connections.
With a checker. Problem is, theres no tick when coolant temp is under 160°. From there until 190°, it just starts tapping louder and louder. I need to find what lifter is collapsing/stuck......
Misfire history for a particular cylinder?
Checked exhaust mainfold/headers for cooler temp with an IR thermometer?
With a checker. Problem is, theres no tick when coolant temp is under 160°. From there until 190°, it just starts tapping louder and louder. I need to find what lifter is collapsing/stuck......
This kind of problem is the worst. Is it that bad you will not drive it??
You can get a stethoscope from Amazon for less than $20 in a couple days. I just bought one and it’s amazing.
I have a stethoscope, but I havent tried using it yet. I'll give it a try in the spring. But it'd be tough to isolate the sound when the rockers are so close together. My plan is to do it visually, because I'd, hopefully, be able to see the excessive lash. I have to be able to access the valvetrain quickly so the engine doesn't cool off. If that happened, the noise will disappear. I'd leave the valve cover in place as long as possible, then remove it to inspect. The coil pack won't come off (IIRC) with the alternator still in place. Removing and replacing the alternator would just slow things down.
Misfire history for a particular cylinder?
Checked exhaust mainfold/headers for cooler temp with an IR thermometer?
That's a good idea. I also have an IR thermometer. Not sure if I could discern a misfire history. When I plug in my old Predator, it says "random multiple cylinder misfire, cause unknown." Probably due to the cam. But the IR thermometer may help. Thanks, Lucky.
My understanding is the main connector between the main harness and coil pack sub harness is the same on all LS motors but the connector beetween the coil pack and coil pack sub harness varies from coil pack to coil pack.
If you need longer and don't have the tools to pin your own harness, we were talking with EFI Connection to make a harness but the friend made his own connections.
Mike, just do a “clear flood crank” and you can watch the valve train !!…hold the gas pedal to the floor while starting the car and the engine will just crank…you will not get spark or injector pulse…you don’t need the engine running.
@C5 Diag Hi Rob. I'm thinking I may just stick with jumping the TDR as we discussed before. Once it's hot, the lash problem could be found with the remote starter. I'll just leave it connected after checking all the zero lash pushrod lengths. Once it is started, Ill get it hot, shut it down, pull a valve cover, and spin it over until the problem manifests itself. Should only take a couple 3 or 4 spins. @lucky131969 I think Lucky had a good idea about using an IR thermometer. I cause the stethoscope to get to the general area, then see if it shows up with the IR thermometer. I still think its a lifter issue. Since it's such a PITA to access the lifters, I just want to be absolutely certain which lifter it is so I can fix it with just one more head removal. If this thing costs much more money, my wife will remove the head.....MINE!!!!!
Last edited by grinder11; Dec 9, 2024 at 06:44 PM.
@C5 Diag Hi Rob. I'm thinking I may just stick with jumping the TDR as we discussed before. Once it's hot, the lash problem could be found with the remote starter. I'll just leave it connected after checking all the zero lash pushrod lengths. Once it is started, Ill get it hot, shut it down, pull a valve cover, and spin it over until the problem manifests itself. Should only take a couple 3 or 4 spins. @lucky131969 I think Lucky had a good idea about using an IR thermometer. I cause the stethoscope to get to the general area, then see if it shows up with the IR thermometer. I still think its a lifter issue. Since it's such a PITA to access the lifters, I just want to be absolutely certain which lifter it is so I can fix it with just one more head removal. If this thing costs much more money, my wife will remove the head.....MINE!!!!!
Thats a simple fix. Just buy her jewelry that's more then what your spending on your car, then she can't give you ****. Learned this long time ago.