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Just wondering if anyone else has done this to extend the life of the original joints, etc?
Never even considered it....ever. I started working on cars when when oil change intervals were every 3,000 miles, and plenty of zirc fitting to grease. Sealed assemblies are one of the many advances of the 20th century....enjoy them.
I will admit, if we were living in a post-apocalyptic world, where replacement car parts were no longer available, I might resort to using that needle.
Last edited by lucky131969; Jan 10, 2025 at 05:55 PM.
By the time those sealed joints need new lube they'll be worn and ready for new parts. Way back in the late '70s I had a Chevy Blazer 4×4. Installed a lift kit, and needed new U-joints. I thought it was great that the new U-joints were greaseable, with their own zerk fittings, where the "junk" OEM units were sealed. OEMs went 100,000 miles. Even though the new joints had grease zerks and I kept them greased, I was lucky to get 10,000 miles out of them! Lucky is right, sealed is best. Ironically, the company I worked for made the machine that sealed the U-joints.
By the time those sealed joints need new lube they'll be worn and ready for new parts. Way back in the late '70s I had a Chevy Blazer 4×4. Installed a lift kit, and needed new U-joints. I thought it was great that the new U-joints were greaseable, with their own zerk fittings, where the "junk" OEM units were sealed. OEMs went 100,000 miles. Even though the new joints had grease zerks and I kept them greased, I was lucky to get 10,000 miles out of them! Lucky is right, sealed is best. Ironically, the company I worked for made the machine that sealed the U-joints.
I've always been curious how they permanently greased the ball joints at the factory.
Basically replies are saying no. Can this cause harm? What reasons for the no?
I'm pretty sure that the boots have a seal to the body of the joint, which keeps contaminants out. To insert the "needle", you break the integrity of that seal. However, I do remember back in the late 60s-early 70s, when Ford first introduced the "permanently lubed ball joints", and then had issues with them. The dealers were drilling a small hole in the upper caps of the joints, and installing regular zerk fittings. I remember one of my neighbors mentioning it, back in the day, in regards to his Ford Galaxie.
Back in the day Ford just put plugs in the joint and you had to put fittings in. They were saving a buck. No drilling. That came later as in the 60’s Ford was cheap. The trunk floor in many cars were just the top of the gas tank. Including the Mustang.
The truth is leave the joint perfectly sealed. It has all the lubricant it needs and just filling the boot is not going to extend it.
The silicone can and may fail ten you expose it to all things damp, dirty and evil.
Generslly when the ball joints fail the bushings on the arm need replace. Complete control arms are available at a reasonable price. Just do the whole arm. If you drive much it will drive much better. Many cars are driving on bad bushings.
I've always been curious how they permanently greased the ball joints at the factory.
Done on a machine with hi temp molten plastic. The steel alloy required to last under these is near the toughness and hardness to M4 steel. It is Hell to grind. Requires a special Borazon wheel, but still a total PITA....
Last edited by grinder11; Jan 12, 2025 at 02:59 PM.
I use one of those on my Jeep on the lower ball joints. The zerk is a flush one that is a PITA to reach. I can squeeze it between the seal and the knuckle. I use it after having the rig submerged or a lot of wheeling in deep snow. The rest of the fittings (all 21 of them) with zerks get a greasing as well. On a vehicle that does not get thrashed off road I would not compromise the seal.
I've always been curious how they permanently greased the ball joints at the factory.
Couldnt tell you that. I only ground parts that worked on the machine that sealed the U-joints. The plastic (back then) was a pale orangish color, and was injected into them as a hot, molten plastic.....
When these greaseless joints first appeared the upper ball joints on the Ford LTD's were failing in the early 80's. They learned and fix it and now nearly all use sealed joints. As long as the boot is not opened these joints lose little grease and no dirt gets in. Dirt and moisture kill these things.
But be aware they do wear. Even if you grease them they wear. So many have blown boots because they were not greased properly.
The arms on the C5 are easily found new and are very affordable. They include the bushings that also wear. By the time they fail it would have been the same time and miles as most greased joints.
Inspect and replace as needed but do not over think this. I see on the web so many things get over the top because many obsess over things that really are just normal wear or conditions. I agree if it ain't broke.
Many have no idea how to even check a bad ball joint or know the spec needed.
Greasing the chassis
OEM units were sealed. OEMs went 100,000 miles. Even though the new joints had grease zerks and I kept them greased, I was lucky to get 10,000 miles out of them! Lucky is right, sealed is best. Ironically, the company I worked for made the machine that sealed the U-joints.
