Hello all - I found a 98 C5 here locally for 14k with 66k miles. Its only had 2 owners. Test drive etc. went well. Car ran/pulled great. I had a Pre Purchase inspection done yesterday that found a couple of issues. I thought I would "ask the audience's" opinion and get some general insight feedback etc. The overall score was the car was in good-fair condition.

(1) - "Seepage around the rear main seal" - Obviously this isn't something you want to hear. My question is: Is this common for a 98 with 66k miles and a deal breaker? Looks like its around 2k (ish) to fix. Is it worth fixing?
(2) - "Seepage around valve cover". Not to worried about this and it doesn't appear to be an expensive fix. Is this fairly common?
(3) - I can tell the AC isnt cooling properly although it does function. PPI guy said the same thing. What are the most commonly known issues with the C5 AC? It could just be low on freon. It also could need a full replacement. Dont want to have to sink a bunch of money into a full replacement. Not to state the obvious LOL. Here in Houston, its impossible to drive without AC in the summer.
(4) - Last but not least. TPMS Sensors seem like they need replacement.

Are these things to be expected and worth replacing? Or would those with more knowledge/insight on the C5's suggest I walk away on this one?

 

If not already done, I suggest reading the 'Sticky's on the C5 platform. Some thoughts. Will you do repairs or will have others do a repairs? The electrical gremlins in the C5 platform are a real pain to sort out if there is no experience doing so. If others will do the work, is there a shop/dealer locally that has the experience working on the C5 platform? Although the mileage is low, the issues that have been found does show some disregard to keep the '97 up to reasonable driving condition. I do not know your budget, but when I was considering the C5 platform, I wanted a low mileage no inspection issue 03 or 04. It took me 2-3 months to find what my must haves but I did while going to several surrounding States.

 

I would have to have a shop do everything but the TPMS sensors. Initially I am thinking on using the report to get them down on price and using the difference for the repairs. Budget is 15-16K all in. Including repairs. I am kind of worried that since its only had 2 owners it may have sat for longer than it should. The car fax DOES show regular service though.

I have read the stickys

 

Hard pass on a 98 overall. If I were in the market today, I would be looking for an 01-03.

 

I would not bother about rear main seepage except to negotiate a lower price. Replace the valve cover gaskets should be all that's needed for the valve covers.
In Houston though- no way I would buy a car with A/C problems. It's just miserable to drive without it half of the year.
You say budget is $15-16k all in, if that includes repairs that come up (did you activate the ABS during the inspection? Pull the codes?) and all fluid changes (how does the clutch fluid look?) then you're already at the upper end of your budget even without any unforeseen issues.

 

Look also for the dreaded issue with the harmonic balancer. It is a two piece pulley thing, bonded with glue, and it separates. It starts as a mild, intermittent squealing sound that for all the world sound like a simple issue with the belt or tensioner. And in fact it can be quieted down, at first, with belt dressing or wetting the belt with water. But it gets worse. Eventually it gets loud and happens all the time. The imbalance that results can cause the front main seal to leak. It can be especially bad if it separates fully. And, it seem to happen between 60K and 80K miles - its pretty common.

Make sure the horn works - there is an issue that develops with horn membrane under the plastic steering wheel cover. That membrane can be obtained and replaced. By the owner. Not terribly difficult but you do need to fool with the airbag to do it. Get the service manual and read up on it before attempting.

Is the fuel gauge working. Yet another typical issue. When fuel level is not full, there can be dead spots in the sending unit. Its said that is due to some deterioration that can be prevented by using Top Tier gas, or the equivalent additive (Techron is one but not the only one). I do not know if it can be reversed using an additive after it has happened.

Does it have the fix for the steering wheel lock. That can close while driving, locking your steering wheel. There was a factory recall and fix. There was also an aftermarket fix that works fine, but it works differently from the factory fix. It simply disable the locking mechanism, but then include some electronics that fool the car into thinking the lock is working.

 

The inspection did check the codes and nothing came back on that side of things. Brakes checked out etc...

Initial thought was to get them down on the price using the inspection as a negotiating tool. Say maybe, 10-12K. They are asking 14k for it. So basically, I'd have 2-3 k to fix the main issues right away.. That would be close to my 15-16K budget. On the other I hand it may not be worth all the BS.

 

1998 V8s without “seepage” are few and far between. If it isn’t dripping you can keep pretty well up with seepage with a can of brake cleaner at oil change time.
Otherwise, you don’t mention whether 6 speed or slush box. If it’s a stick car you’ll want to see if the seats slide back and forth 1/4” or so. Less problematic with an auto, an annoying distraction at every shift with a stick. Not a deal breaker, but fixing requires seat removal and disassembly.
Parking brakes often don’t work, both from lack of shoe adjustment and from grease in the hand lever solidifying with age.
Radiators tend to suffer cracking in the driver’s side tank, as does the fitting on the bottom of the coolant recovery tank.
AC has three common issues. Old compressor seals can leak, and low refrigerant reduces system efficiency. Pretty easy to check or have checked. Bigger issues are loss of vacuum and/or inoperative blend door actuators. Vacuum is used to control HVAC air path, and breaking of the small rigid plastic line is common, leading to HVAC output coming out all vents, including the defroster, at the same time. Time consuming to find and fix. And, finally, HVAC output temperature is controlled by electric actuators moving blend doors. The actuators have plastic gears that tend to crack. These are fun, since nominal replacement requires removal of the dash pad.

 

Remember if the AC needs freon, it's leaking, period. Freon is not used up. You'll need a competent AC mechanic to find the leak or leaks, then fix it, without creating a new leak. I'm a freak about Cold AC. That could be very costly. Rear seal seepage would stop Mr in my tracks, valve cover seepage. To me, I have to say, what else is going on, un noticed. I would guess this car is not being well maintained.

 

Yep, thats kind of the way I feel as well. Unfortunately in Pre Purchase Inspections they dont diagnose. Just identify. As for the RMS "Seepage" I dont know how bad it is. Could be minimal. The car has only had 2 owners. The first one owned it for 19yrs. 2nd one for 7 ish.

I totally expect to have to fix things on a 27yr old car but definitely don't want to get stuck with a bottomless pit. I am going to use the PPI to get them down and see from there. That said, most of the things identified seem to have made their way to other vehicles on the forum! This is a great site and lots of good members. Thanks for the input.

 

Welcome. Also the Harmonic Balancer akways goes out and the shift cable if its auto, akways falls off so Id check those out too. To me, the worst thing about used car dealers of any kind is their steadfast "we've already priced it where it needs to be and, it's an old car. 27 yesr old cars are going to have a few issues. You have to have a firm price and walk otherwise. The more you try to convince them they are wrong, or they didn't catch something, you'll probably loose in that regard. They have a price and it doesn't matter what you think or what you think is wrong. Have they had it a long time? Every day of carrying it, cost them x dollars. Look at me telling you how to buy, lol. Good luck. The only car I had with a rear seal problem, had an notorious engine record. It will get worse and may start making a knocking noise. Good luck.

 

Thanks to all for the responses. I am walking from this one. My quest for a C5 continues! I WILL be back!

 

Good choice. Look for a 2001-early 2003. Just better all the way around.

 

Yeah, there are a few of those around here in Houston. Most thus far, seem to be Convertibles. Not really into those. Its to Hot here except for a couple months of the year.

 

It was a 6 hour drive when I bought my 1999 ....18 years ago. It was well worth it for exactly what I wanted.

 

Good, I think that's wise. With all this thought and prep, you'll get a good one. I had 4 C5's 2 convertibles, and 2 Targa top. I just got a 2018 C7 Stingray Z51 LT3 and still have my 2002. Hopefully with spring coming on I'll get it sold soon.

 

These are minor problems that every C5 of every year has or will have.
Buying a later model is not going to make any difference. The later ones have their own distinctive and expensive problems.
Still all C5s are good.
At this time of their life condition is more important than year.
If you don't know anything about cars or Corvettes have the car checked out by a mechanic who knows Chevrolets from the early aughts.

 

Not true

 

It'll make a HUGE difference if you need an EBCM, need TPMS sensors, SWPS, etc. Also, FWIW, the early blocks lack some provisions for lifter oiling that the '99 and later blocks have. They also contain less aluminum (not as strong as later blocks), and the early blocks can not be overbored/honed more than .005". The info is out there. Not saying the early C5s aren't desirable. Just saying the later ones do have some advantages. I have a 2000 model. The '01-up have some of the above advantages that I missed out on. FWIW....

 

Don't rule out a car based on no service records. It could mean proper maintenance wasn't done regularly. BUT-It also could mean the car was maintained by a knowledgeable owner. Carfax is a tool, which may, or may not, mean something good, or bad. Condition of the car will speak volumes on the maintenance.....