When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My car is an autocross HPDE one and I pinned the stock HB and it held up until I broke a lifter. The car live in the 4000-6000 rpm range so the OEM balancer held up. If you are DIY then get the aftermarket lifter unless you have degree attachment for your ratchet. ARP bolt is tightened to torque and OEM bolt is degree of stretch
Looking for new HB for my c5. Seems like there are failures even on some of the aftermarket dampers. Would appreciate others opinions. Thx.
Aftermarket balancers may occasionally fail. However, I have never seen that happen and I would be willing to bet the OEM balancer has a higher failure rate than good aftermarket balancers. For reference I've run the same ASP 25% UD balancer on my LS7 engined C5 for nearly 20 years/80,000+ miles. It has outlasted 2 427 engines......
I went with the Dayco/PowerBond PB1117N with good results, however if i were to do this again (I really dont)
I would have spent a little more and get the ATI or the Fluidampr just because I don't want to do that job again.
X2 for the PowerBond. All of these, except Fluid Damper and TCI Rattler, use an elastomer, even ATI. The ATI and Summit are SFI safety rated for racing.
Hey, I get it. For example, if the original GM water pump gave up, I would install a new GM water pump. The GM dampeners have lasted for years and years, and in many, perhaps most, cases never failed.
Where I parted ways on the GM dampener was recognizing the damage that could occur upon failure. Also, better and affordable replacements parts are available unlike other components, like a water pump for example.
Most importantly, is that changing out the GM part has the implied requirement to swap the cam “while you’re in there”. So there’s that, lol.
Last edited by vette4fl; Mar 31, 2025 at 01:24 PM.
My 2000 C5 with 67K mostly weekend miles started the famous wobble of the stock HD now more than 25 years old. I replaced it with ATI Super and it was also pinned. Car runs so much smoother now. Previously had a vibration at 1200 rpm through 2000 rpm on every shift, very irritating, and now completely smooth over the entire rpm spectrum. Very happy. And no wobble now!
Hey, I get it. For example, if the original GM water pump gave up, I would install a new GM water pump. The GM dampeners have lasted for years and years, and in many, perhaps most, cases never failed.
Where I parted ways on the GM dampener was recognizing the damage that could occur upon failure. Also, better and affordable replacements parts are available unlike other components, like a water pump for example.
Most importantly, is that changing out the GM part has the implied requirement to swap the cam “while you’re in there”. So there’s that, lol.
Just a FWIW......I have been running an Edelbrock replacement Hi-Flow water pump (part# 8896) since 2014 and have never had a problem with it. If I do it is rebuildable. I paid about $300 for mine in 2014. I see they're around $475 now. Again FWIW....