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Those types of codes will pop up as soon as you turn the key on vs having to drive it like PCM codes?
Some may come back “key ON”…or come on while driving…scan before you shut the car off and any DTC’s will come back as “C” or current..other than looking at DTC’s I’d be doing a good visual inspection…a compression test would also be a good idea…if you can find a shop with a labscope they can do a “relative compression” test which takes 2 minutes vs using an “old school” compression gauge which takes 2 hours…you don’t even have to open the hood to do a relative compression test…your DTC’s are for the left and right door control modules and the RFA module which concerns the FOB and TPMS system…those U codes can caused by low battery voltage.