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I accidentally tried starting my car while it was hooked up to the wall charger for my battery. Cranked it, couple clicks and then nothing. I lost all power to the car. I used a test light to check the fuses on the engine compartment fuse box but nothing lights up, I can’t find a busted fuse. Nothing lights up on on the interior box either. Checked the big fuses and none are popped. Did I just destroy my ECU or PCM? 😫 I’m horrible at electrical, but any suggestions would be appreciated.
First and foremost, pull the battery cables off the battery, clean thoroughly, and reinstall — making certain the bolts are tight. No, not 30 lb/ft tight, but I have seen 11 lb/ft listed in more than one place.
Battery is fully charged (shows 12.8V)and everything worked before I cranked it. I pulled off the negative to see if the system would reset overnight. Hooked it back up to no avail. but I’m not getting power to the fuse box.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
You should have two (2) fusible links at the starter solenoid. One is a 16 gage fusible link for the main car wiring , and the second is a 20 gage fusible link for the battery gage in the dash. You need to check each one a replace the one(s) that are bad
Positive battery voltage is wired from the battery to the engine fuse box, and there is a second cable at that same connection point that supplies 12v to the interior fuse box. The one fuseable link by the starter is the output wire from the alternator, it's purpose is to provide short circuit protection if the alternator shorts to ground.
Last edited by mmartinez; Apr 10, 2025 at 01:14 PM.
First of all, fill out your profile with at least model/year information. All C5s are NOT the same.
Originally Posted by Traviper
I’ll check it.
Lot's of misinformation in this thread, except for forum members redzg and mmartinez
While there are fusible links from the alternator to the starter, they have zero to do with power from the battery to underhood and IP electrical centers.
Just because your battery shows a surface charge, does not mean it can support a load. If in any doubt, have the battery tested.
As already suggested, battery cables should be free of corrosion, and torqued properly.
Inspect the the negative battery cable connection at the engine block above the starter for absence of corrosion and security.
The underhood and IP electrical centers are directly connected to the positive battery cable. Remove the cover from the underhood electrical center. You will see two large terminals. One is from the battery, and the other provides 12v to the IP electrical center. You should have 12v there at all times. Check that nut for security .
Thank you all for the help and suggestions. As someone stated, it was the loose positive terminal. The odds of it getting loose and not contacting at that exact moment baffle me.I drive it every weekend and the positive never gave me issues. I am relieved to say the least that it was an easy fix. Thanks all.
Last edited by Traviper; Apr 10, 2025 at 11:18 PM.
Car has zero power
