Hello everyone! I’m new to this forum and wanted to make a post because I’m in need of some assistance.

this might be a long post so I’ll try my best to summarize. I’ll also be including photos.

TLDR at bottom.

I have a 2001 C5 6 speed Manual.

When I first got this C5, it was working fine. There was a small issue with the key cylinder where I’d have to jiggle the key to get the car into the on and start position but that was about it. Here and there as I used the car it would occasionally start no problem, but the minute I would shift into first and give a little gas, the car would immediately shut off as if stalling. I figured it was user error as this was my first manual car, but I’ve stalled before and the car would usually jerk, the times it would shut off on me there was no jerking.

At first the car would shut off maybe 2-4 times before I could get it to drive off with no problems. Eventually the issue got bad to the point where it would just keep shutting off and I’d have to let the car sit for 30 minutes up to an hour before I could get it to start again and drive off without the car cutting off.

when I got the corvette, whoever had the car before, had a kill switch installed next to the battery in the engine bay. I’m not sure what for, but my guess is because I have a second battery in the trunk of my C5 that powers an AMP, and 2 12’ subs, and a aftermarket pioneer double DIN radio.

im mentioning the above because I’m not sure if the all the electronics would somehow set off VATS? But I’m also mentioning the above because I’d usually cycle the kill switch to off for a few minutes, then back on, and repeat 2x-3x and the car would start up and run fine.

I did some limited research on the issue and found that it was possibly VATS, or the resistor on the key wasn’t working. Before I was really able to diagnose the problem, the issue stopped. For the next 8 months I maybe had 5 instances where the car would just shut off when starting and trying to drive off.

recently, the issue popped back up, but a ton of issues soon followed. I stopped at auto zone to grab power steering fluid (hose has a leak and needs to be replaced.) and I used the tip of the key to open the bottle, after refilling, I inserted the key super quick and turned to the start position and back to off on accident, and the car wouldn’t crank. I figured maybe I got fluid on the resistor but I didn’t shove the key deep into the bottle, literally just the very tip to gently open a hole.

so I cleaned the key, and tried again, no crank. Tried reprogramming the key from what I’ve read online, no crank, tried cycling the kill switch, no crank, let the car sit for a bit, no crank. 3 hours at autozone before I gave up and got the car towed to my house.

The key would go into the on position and everything worked fine, but the car just would not crank at all, and I noticed the security light was on and the brake and wheel locked. Somehow, I’m guessing the VATS was set off, but this time I couldn’t troubleshoot and fix it like in the past.

I figured maybe it was a burnt contacts on the ignition switch, and the key hole inside the tumbler was beat to **** so maybe it wasn’t reading the resistor? (car has 198k miles, so I’m not sure if the switch and tumbler were ever replaced.) so I uninstalled some screws, moved some parts, and got to the ignition switch, and sure enough, there were burnt contacts. (Didn’t clean them up with sand paper) Instead of going through the process of buying a switch, new tumbler, and getting a new key to program, I opted to buy a used unit off eBay.

I bought a used ignition switch/tumbler that came with a key and fob from a 01’ C5 that had 66k miles. The Part looked new with no burnt contacts, and as a plus, it didn’t have that issue where I had to jiggle the key to get it into the on and start position.

I disassembled the center console and kick panel, and attempted to remove the old ignition switch, I disconnected the 2 cables from the back, and while disconnecting the long black cable that connects directly to the switch, I noticed there was a yellow wire spliced onto the white wires and wrapped with electric tape, and the only way to disconnected the old switch, was to cut the yellow cable, so for the time being I didn’t mess with it, I ordered the new switch, and let the car sit for a week.

below is a picture of the wire I’m speaking about.



The new switch arrived, I connected the new switch, (left the old switch wired because I didn’t want to cut the cable yet) attempted to see if the car would start. The car did not start, but now the fuse center relay box (I believe that’s what it’s called) under the passenger floor started buzzing very loudly, like if something was being fried, and wouldn’t stop. The buzzing only stopped once turning the key to the off position. Each time I attempted to turn the car to the on position the buzzing would progressively get louder.

Finally, I cut the yellow wire to disconnect the old switch, and tried connecting the new switch fully, and not only does the car now not start, but that yellow wire had to be to the gauges, because now nothing lights up anymore when I turn the car to ON, and the buzzing is intensified.

Now I’m here, on the forum seeking help. I want to try and troubleshoot the problem myself before I tow it to a shop and drop money on labor and repair. (If it comes to that, I’m in SOCAL around the IE if there’s any shop recommendations.)

TLDR: VATS keeps activating, buzzing from center fuse relay box, cut spliced wire to old ignition switch to connect new switch, and now nothing lights up. Need help, can’t go on joy rides anymore.

 

Sometimes it is better to let experts to sort out the problem and fix. Suggest contacting the local Corvette club for help finding a shop that can do both.

 

Buzzing sound means the battery is very discharged and what you are hearing is a relay. Have your battery load tested. The car stalling is the 2 mph fuel shut caused by issues with the column lock system, you should purchase a LMC5 column lock bypass.

 

Since there is a "kill switch" at the battery someone has probably fubared the wiring and used that disconnect to keep from draining the battery. Good Luck.