Clutch HELP
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Clutch HELP
I am running a built 2004 c5 with stock trans and supposedly “tick performance clutch, master and slave cylinder” looking at the master I’m believing that to be false. Since the car was bought it has always struggled on take off and taking off on hills were not an option. It also would slightly grind and “grab” when I’m in a gear driving and would push the clutch to rev at someone. Last time it was drove a month ago I was getting on it and it worked fine until it didn’t. WHEN STOPPED clutch in put into first gear when I try to take off it scratches / grinds pretty loud until I am rolling and peddle is fully decompressed. I’m seeing it is between master / slave / throw out bearing but I’m told different every time.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 138
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
I am running a built 2004 c5 with stock trans and supposedly “tick performance clutch, master and slave cylinder” looking at the master I’m believing that to be false. Since the car was bought it has always struggled on take off and taking off on hills were not an option. It also would slightly grind and “grab” when I’m in a gear driving and would push the clutch to rev at someone. Last time it was drove a month ago I was getting on it and it worked fine until it didn’t. WHEN STOPPED clutch in put into first gear when I try to take off it scratches / grinds pretty loud until I am rolling and peddle is fully decompressed. I’m seeing it is between master / slave / throw out bearing but I’m told different every time.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,767
Likes: 938
From: Orlando Florida
If it’s a ‘built’ car, with many high performance components, it is quite possible you have an aluminum flywheel, which can make getting started from a stop more difficult.
You say looking at the master you suspect it does not have a Tick master cylinder? Are you looking from the top, or in through the wheel well? If you can get a good sight line it should be pretty easy to tell, with the Tick being cast iron and OEM aluminum.
Do a couple driveway tests:
1) Car in neutral, hand brake set. Start the motor and let it come to idle. Somewhat slowly push the brake pedal to the floor. Listen for growling, grinding, or chattering. If it makes noise, does it occur right away, increase with pedal travel, or occur at a specific point of travel?
2) Car still idling in neutral. Push pedal to floor, wait a second or two and then shift into gear. Shift smoothly, or do the gears seem to drag or notch going into place? Return to neutral and repeat. Any difference on second shift?
3) Car still idling in gear, clutch pedal depressed. Hold pedal down 30 seconds or more. Note whether engine strains or car pulls at brakes.
You say looking at the master you suspect it does not have a Tick master cylinder? Are you looking from the top, or in through the wheel well? If you can get a good sight line it should be pretty easy to tell, with the Tick being cast iron and OEM aluminum.
Do a couple driveway tests:
1) Car in neutral, hand brake set. Start the motor and let it come to idle. Somewhat slowly push the brake pedal to the floor. Listen for growling, grinding, or chattering. If it makes noise, does it occur right away, increase with pedal travel, or occur at a specific point of travel?
2) Car still idling in neutral. Push pedal to floor, wait a second or two and then shift into gear. Shift smoothly, or do the gears seem to drag or notch going into place? Return to neutral and repeat. Any difference on second shift?
3) Car still idling in gear, clutch pedal depressed. Hold pedal down 30 seconds or more. Note whether engine strains or car pulls at brakes.
Last edited by redzg; Apr 29, 2025 at 08:39 AM.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
So from the top when i push the clutch in start the vehicle as im releasing it you can hear a faint scratching just for a second until released. Then push clutch in no noises put into first gear all good no strange noises vibrations or movement but when I start letting off the clutch around the time I get to the grab point it starts scratching real bad and seems like I have to let out a lot more just to get the car to start moving. Once moving and foot is off the clutch noise is gone. Clutch in shift to second same thing noise as I decompress the pedal. Fluid is correct level and clean I had to switch to high temp fluid because the clutch would “boil” and the pedal would stick down. Hasn’t done it since fluid was replaced. I’m assuming the clutch master cylinder is original just from the looks of it and it being corroded looking. As far as your tests car idols fine and even drives fine aside from take off
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,574
Likes: 7,251
From: CT
Can you record the sounds and share?
My first guess is clutch chatter which is common to some aftermarket brands, especially when still new or not broken in. Chatter will occur when in neutral and disappear when the clutch is engaged.
The alternative could always be that something is worn out and needs replacing. Impossible to tell over the internet.
My first guess is clutch chatter which is common to some aftermarket brands, especially when still new or not broken in. Chatter will occur when in neutral and disappear when the clutch is engaged.
The alternative could always be that something is worn out and needs replacing. Impossible to tell over the internet.
