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At 82+ years of age and a new well used C5 owner reading about all sorts of horrible problems newer cars have with all their electrics, (mine included). Is there some way to bypass all this electronic/computer nonesense and still make your car run? This is a serious question as I don't really think all this electrical complication is needed to make an automobile function. Maybe I am wrong. I live in a state without annual, or semiannual smog inspections etc. so what won't work in the PRC (People's Republic of [fill in the blanks here]) will work where I live, if something exists. Back in the day things were much simpler. Gas, compression and spark, that's what was needed. My '67 427 Vette did not have these sorts of issues nor did my '66 Impala SS w/396 & 4 spd. It would seem we have gone down a bad road with all this electronic stuff which only works sometimes.
DJ99
Last edited by DJ99; May 10, 2025 at 02:41 AM.
Reason: Mostly punctuation and word choices.
It’s certainly not simple to make the car simple. Active handling and ABS can be disabled, but electronic fuel injection would have to be changed to a carburetor. No idea whether the auto would work without sensor input.
And it gets worse. Speedometer input comes from a computer instead of a spinning cable. Cruise control? Computer. HVAC? Some have manual controls, but a lot of us have the dual zone — definitely computer. Heck, there are no manual windows or mirrors.
At 82+ years of age and a new well used C5 owner reading about all sorts of horrible problems newer cars have with all their electrics, (mine included). Is there some way to bypass all this electronic/computer nonesense and still make your car run? This is a serious question as I don't really think all this electrical complication is needed to make an automobile function. Maybe I am wrong. I live in a state without annual, or semiannual smog inspections etc. so what won't work in the PRC (People's Republic of [fill in the blanks here]) will work where I live, if something exists. Back in the day things were much simpler. Gas, compression and spark, that's what was needed. My '67 427 Vette did not have these sorts of issues nor did my '66 Impala SS w/396 & 4 spd. It would seem we have gone down a bad road with all this electronic stuff which only works sometimes.
DJ99
My advice.....sell the C5. If you have reached a point of frustration(and fear) that you have to ask how to bypass all the "computer stuff"....just sell the damn car. It's not that I do not understand, as I thoroughly enjoy the simplicity of pre-electronic fuel injection cars. The pic below is my garage today. I just startred restoring my Dad's 1972 442 convertible. The only think that draws on the battery when the engine is off is the analog clock . I can do everything with a handful of SAE tools. Tons of room in under the hood. Manual seats, roll up windows, no air conditioning.
Stick with what you know, and more importantly, what you enjoy.
You're better off selling your car and buying something like what you had before, I hope you find what you're looking for.
Hi Frodo 84,
Sadly the cars I used to have are priced way beyond what I can afford! Again, back in the day, my Vette cost $2,500 and my Impala cost $600.
And, although I am complaining about modern stuff, the challenge is still there! Aren't we supposed to be just as smart (or maybe smarter?) than computers?
And so the challenge ... how to make this car a driveable runner. It must be possible, I just need to learn how. This forum is a tremendous help, back in the day
such things as this forum did not exist; remember if you like, that we did not have computers and the internet then.
DJ99
Last edited by DJ99; May 10, 2025 at 09:55 AM.
Reason: punctuation correction
My advice.....sell the C5. If you have reached a point of frustration(and fear) that you have to ask how to bypass all the "computer stuff"....just sell the damn car. It's not that I do not understand, as I thoroughly enjoy the simplicity of pre-electronic fuel injection cars. The pic below is my garage today. I just startred restoring my Dad's 1972 442 convertible. The only think that draws on the battery when the engine is off is the analog clock . I can do everything with a handful of SAE tools. Tons of room in under the hood. Manual seats, roll up windows, no air conditioning.
Stick with what you know, and more importantly, what you enjoy.
Hi Lucky,
Love your garage! You have two icons!
I don't know anything about Olds 442s but I am sure you will get it into top shape based on your garage photo! I like your bike too, my last was a 113" Dyna. I did not spend a nickle on extra chrome but did spend thousands on the motor.
I could not really work on that one either! Back in the day I had a '64 CH with fixed magneto and a Tilitson carb with three adjustable jets. I could work on that one! I got it into such tune that I could start it in my slippers (in the summer, of course.)
As I mentioned in a previous reply, the challenge is still there. I will be tremendously pleased if I can (with lots of help and advice) get our C5 into shape; and I don't have the needed funds to replace the '67 I sold in about 1972, sad to say.
DJ99
Last edited by DJ99; May 10, 2025 at 10:06 AM.
Reason: Wanted to add a comment about bikes and responder's bike.
The old timer again ... something I did not mention is that our C5 is something of a fierce drag racer. It has a Texas Speed block, blower, two plate clutch, runs on E85 and once I master that clutch the power and speed it has will really be something I think. The guy we got the car from gave me a demo, and as they used to say "put a $50 on the dash and as we go through the gears you won't be able to grab it". What a rush!
So I am not quite ready to sell it just yet; maybe later.
DJ99
Last edited by DJ99; May 10, 2025 at 10:12 AM.
Reason: Make post neater.
I would love to know how to disable active handling and ABS. I gather the ABS system is famous for failing and about impossible to repair and very expensive to replace I hear. Is that something a tuner could do?
Your 82 years young, sell it, buy a new one with a 10 year warranty/ 100,000 miles. Spend some of that money and enjoy it while you still can. Just my .02
Love your garage! You have two icons!
I don't know anything about Olds 442s but I am sure you will get it into top shape based on your garage photo! I like your bike too, my last was a 113" Dyna. I did not spend a nickle on extra chrome but did spend thousands on the motor.
I could not really work on that one either! Back in the day I had a '64 CH with fixed magneto and a Tilitson carb with three adjustable jets. I could work on that one! I got it into such tune that I could start it in my slippers (in the summer, of course.)
As I mentioned in a previous reply, the challenge is still there. I will be tremendously pleased if I can (with lots of help and advice) get our C5 into shape; and I don't have the needed funds to replace the '67 I sold in about 1972, sad to say.
DJ99
Aright then.... If you're going to stay the course update your profile with your location and the year of your car. That way we can send you a link to your Regional Forum members and you can get some local help.
Aright then.... If you're going to stay the course update your profile with your location and the year of your car. That way we can send you a link to your Regional Forum members and you can get some local help.
We live in Miami Oklahoma, northeast corner of the state, Kansas, Missouri and Arkansas are all pretty close. We are about 45 minutes from Joplin MO, about 1/2 hour from Grove OK and about an hour and a half from Tulsa OK.
My car is a modified 1999 hatchback with manual transmission.
I haven't any good photos of it yet, only have had it about two or three weeks and it's been in the garage all that time.
Your 82 years young, sell it, buy a new one with a 10 year warranty/ 100,000 miles. Spend some of that money and enjoy it while you still can. Just my .02
Hi Beast,
I wonder if I could do a "go fund me" for a new ZR1 because I deserve it because I could drop dead any day and all who see my "go fund me" and don't send me a ton of money will feel bad for depriving me of the new Corvette before I die?
We live in Miami Oklahoma, northeast corner of the state, Kansas, Missouri and Arkansas are all pretty close. We are about 45 minutes from Joplin MO, about 1/2 hour from Grove OK and about an hour and a half from Tulsa OK.
My car is a modified 1999 hatchback with manual transmission.
I haven't any good photos of it yet, only have had it about two or three weeks and it's been in the garage all that time.
I wonder if I could do a "go fund me" for a new ZR1 because I deserve it because I could drop dead any day and all who see my "go fund me" and don't send me a ton of money will feel bad for depriving me of the new Corvette before I die?
Yrs,
DJ99
Well, before you start your new corvette go fund me page, does your current C5 have any of these electrical issues that you don’t like. Or are you just worried about problems that don’t exist yet on your car??? When a problem arises, just fix it if you like your c5.
Sounds like the previous owner invested a lot in this car. Are there any problems that you’re aware of?
Im 70 and also wish I could afford some of the cars I owned in the 70’s. Cars that I could afford back then in high school working part time at McDonalds!
Still, the C5 is a great car and easy to work on. There could be issues at some point, but on the other hand things may very well last beyond us. Let us know if there is anything you need help with.
Apart from the general discussion of electronics.... what is actually at issue with the car?
I find electronics to be easy, but I grew up in them. My first car I tore apart and did a full conversion long before kits for anything existed. The interesting thing is once you are up to speed on basic EFI, you can look at any car and figure out what the same sensors and parts do on any brand or model vehicle. Any failure can be fixed or replaced
There are lights which come on for abs and the drive mode. I don't really mind those not working but would like to learn how to get the lights off without making more trouble.
I need to know what some previous owner meant with some extra wiring, also need a fuel pressure gauge as leads to old one were routed by someone too close to the headers and the insulation melted frying the gauge, too bad as it is one of the good (read expensive) ones.
I think I have either parasitic drain(s) or some bad grounds as I got sparks when hooking up my new battery. I have a battery tender I plug in at night, alt. puts out 14.5 v so that's not an issue. I can do the parasitic drain testing I think but I have no way to get under the car for some of the chassis grounds.
I am still learning how to drive this machine, the two plate clutch is a new experience for me and this car does not like pussyfooting, seems to like a firm hand, so to speak.
It is really a street legal (in Oklahoma anyway) drag racer. At one time, the previous owner told me, it made 750 rwhp (850 at the crank) and did a sub 9 1/4 at over 130. It really needs room to run.
Just to throw some crap on this thread, back in the day, I'm old enough to remember plugs and points were really Lucky to last 10k miles. Bias ply tires maybe a few more. And they would pick up anything layin in the road and you had a flat. I worked in a service station. I made a lot of money plugin tires. And swaping out for snow tires every season. Not to mention warranties on new vehicles sucked. And no such thing as a lemon law. So back in the day wasn't so great after all
There are lights which come on for abs and the drive mode. I don't really mind those not working but would like to learn how to get the lights off without making more trouble.
I need to know what some previous owner meant with some extra wiring, also need a fuel pressure gauge as leads to old one were routed by someone too close to the headers and the insulation melted frying the gauge, too bad as it is one of the good (read expensive) ones.
I think I have either parasitic drain(s) or some bad grounds as I got sparks when hooking up my new battery. I have a battery tender I plug in at night, alt. puts out 14.5 v so that's not an issue. I can do the parasitic drain testing I think but I have no way to get under the car for some of the chassis grounds.
I am still learning how to drive this machine, the two plate clutch is a new experience for me and this car does not like pussyfooting, seems to like a firm hand, so to speak.
It is really a street legal (in Oklahoma anyway) drag racer. At one time, the previous owner told me, it made 750 rwhp (850 at the crank) and did a sub 9 1/4 at over 130. It really needs room to run.
DJ99
oh gosh, I’m of no use to you. I’m the original owner of my 2004, it’s a full bolt on automatic coupe, with 3.73 gears and converter. I’m not a mechanic or electrician. I can do simple things, change oil, drain and fill coolant, an exhaust that’s direct fit, no fabrication. I can do brakes, shocks, etc. sounds like you need to find someone in your area that can help. Maybe join a car club or something. I’m in northern IL by the way. My Dad is a retired mechanic, he helps when he can, he can’t wrench no more. To much arthritis. Sounds like you have one hell of a car, forget about my recommendations of selling it.
Back in the day...
. I can do everything with a handful of SAE tools. Tons of room in under the hood. Manual seats, roll up windows, no air conditioning. 
