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I recently bought my first Corvette, 2001 convertible, 6 speed! I've never been very handy with vehicles, but I told myself this car would be the one where I learn to do as much work myself as I can.
After taking it to a dealership a couple days after picking it up, I've been quoted $1500 to replace my water pump. I don't see where this pump is leaking from. Does anyone know how difficult this will be? Looks like there's more parts I need to replace (e.g. belts) than I've seen is some youtube videos. Thanks!
It’s not too bad, I’m about to replace mine because I have a small leak, touching underneath the water pump with fingers it was wet.
When I replaced the A/C compressor had to remove the water pump to get room to pull compressor out and put new compressor back in, at the time 2018 the water pump was fine so just replaced water pump to engine block with new gaskets.
Drain the coolant, remove serpentine belt, remove the hoses from water pump, and I believe 6 bolts and pulled it off, then clean up the block put new gaskets on with water pump and hook everything back up.
Replaced both belts and all idler and tensioner pulleys in 2017 before going on out of state road trip, the belts were really cracked looking on the inside grooves, replaced all the pulleys because something had a squeak, no squeaking noise after all that.
Will inspect hoses and if look ok will reuse.
In your video it looks like a possible leak or crud buildup where thermostat housing bolts to the water pump, but you may have leaking weephole on water pump also, I believe my water pump weep hole is leaking.
Good time to also flush out your old antifreeze while in there.
I could be wrong, but your harmonic balancer pulley looks like it might have a wobble or vibration?
Might consider replacing that as well, it’s a known issue on these cars as they get older.
I've now had two mechanics inspect this car. 1st one said the car is in great shape. This was for the pre-purchase inspection. I had an engine light come on after a couple days so took it in yesterday to a different mechanic. I asked about the harmonic balancer and he said it was fine. Let's hope it stays that way for a bit. Only 14k miles put on this car from two owners in the same family. Nothing has been replaced in the car.
You’re more likely to smell hot leaking coolant, or perhaps a drip on the floor. They tend to just slowly weep at first. You might ask that one mechanic why he thought it should be replaced.
In any case, it’s an easy job. Lots of YouTube videos.
You'll need a new GM pump, a 0-80 torque wrench (Tekton makes decent wrenches that are reasonably priced), spring band clamp pliers (get both straight and angled styles and you’ll thank me later), gaskets (GM or ACDelco preferably. Mahle is a good aftermarket brand), two rubber bands, and a gallon of Prestone Dex cool.
The torque for the water pump bolts is 11 ft lbs first pass, 22 ft. Lbs. second pass. The rubber band is used to wrap around the three bolts on each side so the bolts and gasket don’t slide out of place before you can get the threads started. Use a pair of needle nose to hold the rubber band and then cut it off. Works great.
Heres some examples on Amazon. Ps. If you plan on doing a lot of work on the car you’ll also need an inch lb torque wrench and a 0-150 ft pound torque wrench. You’re not supposed to use the bottom 20% of their range, so that is why you need overlapping sizes… You won’t need an inch pound wrench yet, but if you do later I included a good set below.
If you are not mechanically inclined then you will struggle with this task. C5 is a difficult platform to learn on, and it has more than it's share of electrical issues which require advanced troubleshooting knowledge. At a minimum you need a factory service manual, a test light, DMM, fuel pressure gage, scanner, jackstands and pucks, ramps, a low profile jack...plus all the hand tools required. Videos will help, but there are more bad practice youtube mechanics than there are good.
You would be well-served connecting with fellow C5 owners in your area. Find someone to work with as you learn.
As vette4fl said this really is one of the easier jobs on these cars. His post is excellent!
If you are somewhat mechanically inclined you could probably change one of these pumps in under an hour with all your tools laid out first.
The worst part is some of these cars had paper water pump gaskets but I'm not sure when they changed over to o ring style gaskets.
The paper gaskets can take an hour by themselves to get scraped off which you have to be careful of the aluminum block and not damaging the surface.
The other positive on these cars is there really is no bleeding procedure or problems with air locks in the cooling system.
I recommend when refilling with coolant hook all hoses back up but remove the steam vent hose. Fill with coolant until it pees out the steam vent pipe (hoses attached to throttle body or under throttle body) and then reattach and you will be golden.
Last edited by Mr. Black; May 18, 2025 at 12:55 PM.
One other potential issue, will be "burping" ALL of the air out of the system, when re-firing the engine with the new pump in place. Doing this PROPERLY, and COMPLETELY, is essential.
One other potential issue, will be "burping" ALL of the air out of the system, when re-firing the engine with the new pump in place. Doing this PROPERLY, and COMPLETELY, is essential.
This has never been an issue for me for any LS powered vehicle I have owned.
The key like I said in the post above is to fill it with the steam vent unhooked until it pees out the pipe.
If you do this it literally will be a set it and forget it operation. At most you may have to top it off one time, but there will be no terrifying am I going to hurt the engine moments like some other engines out there.
I have read some posts about burping, but I have not experienced it myself. I’ve just poured it in the reservoir, run the engine, fill, rinse and repeat and all is good.
The steam hose trick makes sense since it’s the highest point for the coolant. One forum member who said he had an air pocket problem loosened the steam vent while the engine was running and once fluid ran out he tightened the bolt. He stated that solved the problem, so doing that while filling initially seems like a logical step.
Vette4fl pretty much hit the nail on the head. I wanted to add a couple of things though.
Get yourself a decent pick tool set. Removing the heater core and radiator hoses from the water pump after 20-some odd years will require sliding the pick (i usually use the 90 degree one) to help break the seal between the hose nipple and the hose itself.
You'll need some kind of pan to catch the coolant in.
Watch some videos. Keep a reference on hand as you do the job to make sure you're following it step by step.
Most importantly: TAKE. YOUR. TIME. Make sure that when you start this job you have enough time in the day to actually finish it. Not only because you're a newbie, but also because there's an old saying in the automotive world. 'You're one stripped/crossthreaded bolt away from a 1 hour job becoming an all-day job'.
DIY Water Pump Replacement
