When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Since I have owned it, reverse lockout has not been functional, which is a PITA.
I had the car at the shop for alignment and some other things and asked them to troubleshoot and repair. I was assuming it to be the lockout solenoid, and that was bad, however, the PCM also was not cutting the common to the solenoid, therefore the lockout would not engage, I opted to replace the PCM.
Lockout is still not working. We can hear the solenoid clicking (using a scanner to manually engage and disengage the feature), but no lockout.
I am not smart enough to offer any guidence to the shop and they are swamped, which means my car sits until they have a lift available for guesswork.
Since I have owned it, reverse lockout has not been functional, which is a PITA.
I had the car at the shop for alignment and some other things and asked them to troubleshoot and repair. I was assuming it to be the lockout solenoid, and that was bad, however, the PCM also was not cutting the common to the solenoid, therefore the lockout would not engage, I opted to replace the PCM.
Lockout is still not working. We can hear the solenoid clicking (using a scanner to manually engage and disengage the feature), but no lockout.
This does not make any sense. IF the scanner is indeed commanding the PCM to provide a ground to the solenoid....and IF what you are hearing is the solenoid making noise, yet you still cannot shift into reverse....then the problem is NOT the PCM. I would load test the PCM trigger at the solenoid connector and check for 12 volts at the solenoid connector. If all good, the problem is with the solenoid or trans.
So they misdiagnose the problem, change the wrong part, and have the audacity to tell you they are swamped and cannot fix the issue? I would get your old PCM back, and have the car towed at their expense to a trustworthy shop that knows how to troubleshoot.
This does not make any sense. IF the scanner is indeed commanding the PCM to provide a ground to the solenoid....and IF what you are hearing is the solenoid making noise, yet you still cannot shift into reverse....then the problem is NOT the PCM. I would load test the PCM trigger at the solenoid connector and check for 12 volts at the solenoid connector. If all good, the problem is with the solenoid or trans.
So they misdiagnose the problem, change the wrong part, and have the audacity to tell you they are swamped and cannot fix the issue? I would get your old PCM back, and have the car towed at their expense to a trustworthy shop that knows how to troubleshoot.
Partly correct. What I was saying is the reverse locklout is still allowing the shift into reverse when it is activated by the scanner. It is NOT preventing shifting to reverse. The shop did test for 12 VDC at the connector, they also tested the common side of the switch wires to be certain it was not shorted to ground someplace. The PCM was definately bad for that particular connection and it had the good old battery leak marks all over it too. The shop is owned by a buddy, so I am not concerned with the car sitting for a couple of days between troubleshooting efforts. My concern is spending a lot of time troubleshooting a problem that can only be repaired by a trans rebuild at this point. It is a general automotive shop, not a transmission specialist shop. The car drives fine, just will shift into reverse when driving if you are not careful.
Has the car been tuned before? You can adjust the speed at which it will enable/disable at.
If you replaced the PCM then that rules that out. VSS from the T56 is what will tell the PCM the speed.
If it was able to be manually cycled with a Scanner then both the PCM and Reverse Lockout are working. Then again that's if it was what you heard.
Yes, car is tuned. I am not sure if the reverse lockout speed was changed, but I would assume it was not.
I feel fairly certain that we heard the solenoid clicking, as I was standing next to the car, watching him enable/disable lockout and heard the click from that area as he was doing it with the scanner.
So at this point, we have replaced the PCM and the entire reverse lockout (solenoid and the detent pin housing).
We hear it actuate. Still shifts into reverse.
I am wondering if the shift gate plate or something else could cause it. I just don't know enough about the transmission working to have an idea at this point.
Partly correct. What I was saying is the reverse locklout is still allowing the shift into reverse when it is activated by the scanner. It is NOT preventing shifting to reverse.
That's the way it is supposed to work. When you activate/enable/energize the solenoid with a scanner, the PCM provides a ground to the solenoid, and you can shift into reverse. The PCM enables this function below 5 mph. Above 5 mph, the PCM de-energizes the solenoid, preventing you from shifting into reverse.
Originally Posted by Davcruz
The shop did test for 12 VDC at the connector, they also tested the common side of the switch wires to be certain it was not shorted to ground someplace.
So you are saying they confirmed there is no ground present until the PCM provides a ground to the circuit? If you have 12volts and a ground (that can be switched on/off with the scanner), then the problem is with the solenoid or trans......
Originally Posted by Davcruz
The PCM was definately bad for that particular connection and it had the good old battery leak marks all over it too.
So the PCM was bad for the reverse lockout function, and it was replaced, but you still have the same problem..... I know this is your friend's shop, but it sounds like your PCM was obviously not the culprit.
Reverse Lockout is a Solenoid assembly completely outside of the T56 Transmission itself so if you get it to work correctly with the Scanner, and it shifts into Reverse fine, how would it be an internal Transmission issue?
That whole process literally rules out the Transmission.
So the problem remains with a new PCM, and new Lockout Solenoid assembly. The Lockout Solenoid works with a Scanner and not with the PCM, that tells me the circuit is working fine.
Only thing left is the tune so if the new PCM was tuned check that section of the tune.
On another note I don't understand how some of you people out there can literally throw money, parts, and time at a vehicle when those parts are working fine..
That's the way it is supposed to work. When you activate/enable/energize the solenoid with a scanner, the PCM provides a ground to the solenoid, and you can shift into reverse. The PCM enables this function below 5 mph. Above 5 mph, the PCM de-energizes the solenoid, preventing you from shifting into reverse.
So you are saying they confirmed there is no ground present until the PCM provides a ground to the circuit? If you have 12volts and a ground (that can be switched on/off with the scanner), then the problem is with the solenoid or trans......
So the PCM was bad for the reverse lockout function, and it was replaced, but you still have the same problem..... I know this is your friend's shop, but it sounds like your PCM was obviously not the culprit.
I probably did not state it well, but eitherway the reverse lockout is set (engaged.or disengaged) the shifter will move easily into reverse. Sorry if I did not say it well.
The 2 wire circuit (12 V and common) that feeds the solenoid is good now. 1 side has 12 V, the other has common and the common makes and breaks as it should when operated by the scanner, we can hear the solenoid working.
I agree, we have another problem now and I do not believe it is the solenoid.
Reverse Lockout is a Solenoid assembly completely outside of the T56 Transmission itself so if you get it to work correctly with the Scanner, and it shifts into Reverse fine, how would it be an internal Transmission issue?
That whole process literally rules out the Transmission.
So the problem remains with a new PCM, and new Lockout Solenoid assembly. The Lockout Solenoid works with a Scanner and not with the PCM, that tells me the circuit is working fine.
Only thing left is the tune so if the new PCM was tuned check that section of the tune.
On another note I don't understand how some of you people out there can literally throw money, parts, and time at a vehicle when those parts are working fine..
I am literally trying to NOT throw money at the car replacing good parts, hence my initial post here. The PCM was bad, the old solenoid was not and he offered to put it back on but I opted to keep the new part, it was $150.
I will contact the tuner and ask about the tune and reverse lockout but I feel that is not a likely culprit, or at least low probability. However I am open to all suggestions.
So just thinking this out, not sure how it could be in the tune if the solenoid is engaging and disengaging from the scanner. I will still ask the tuner. Also, full disclosure, I did not test drive the car, only used the scanner to test the operation. So maybe I should do that.
The both of us said it above, in the computer programming you can adjust when you want the solenoid to engage and disengage, it works off of speed. Under 5mph it's disengaged and you can shift into Reverse. Above 5mph it blocks you out.
With the scanner and the car sitting still you are manually commanding it so you are hooked to the computer and telling the computer to engage or disengage it.
So by doing so, you literally just tested every component and got it to work and the circuit is clearly working fine.
At this point the only remaining factors are the tune because some people who tune don't know what they are doing and mess with settings and then we get problems like this, or you have no vehicle speed input into the computer so it won't disengage on the side of safety.
If you've had the car this long you would notice the speedometer not working so that probably rules out the latter.
At this point I really don't know how else to explain it either you get it or you don't.
The both of us said it above, in the computer programming you can adjust when you want the solenoid to engage and disengage, it works off of speed. Under 5mph it's disengaged and you can shift into Reverse. Above 5mph it blocks you out.
With the scanner and the car sitting still you are manually commanding it so you are hooked to the computer and telling the computer to engage or disengage it.
So by doing so, you literally just tested every component and got it to work and the circuit is clearly working fine.
At this point the only remaining factors are the tune because some people who tune don't know what they are doing and mess with settings and then we get problems like this, or you have no vehicle speed input into the computer so it won't disengage on the side of safety.
If you've had the car this long you would notice the speedometer not working so that probably rules out the latter.
At this point I really don't know how else to explain it either you get it or you don't.
Just because the solenoid makes noise does not mean it is functioning mechanically.
I will reach out to the tuner and I will also test drive the car. As lucky stated, hearing it click may not mean actual function. Any suggestion to test function other than removing the assembly and watching it engage/disengage?
The both of us said it above, in the computer programming you can adjust when you want the solenoid to engage and disengage, it works off of speed. Under 5mph it's disengaged and you can shift into Reverse. Above 5mph it blocks you out.
With the scanner and the car sitting still you are manually commanding it so you are hooked to the computer and telling the computer to engage or disengage it.
So by doing so, you literally just tested every component and got it to work and the circuit is clearly working fine.
At this point the only remaining factors are the tune because some people who tune don't know what they are doing and mess with settings and then we get problems like this, or you have no vehicle speed input into the computer so it won't disengage on the side of safety.
If you've had the car this long you would notice the speedometer not working so that probably rules out the latter.
At this point I really don't know how else to explain it either you get it or you don't.
I understand what you are saying. Yes, the speedo works and always has during my 4-5 year ownership.
I will reach out to the tuner and I will also test drive the car. As lucky stated, hearing it click may not mean actual function. Any suggestion to test function other than removing the assembly and watching it engage/disengage?
When you get in the car and turn the key to "On", not starting it just turn the key on to get everything to light up you will hear it click. You'll hear it every time because the car isn't moving, and you'll be able to shift into Reverse with the car off just sitting there. The car doesn't have to be running for the Reverse Lockout Solenoid to disengage.
Yes, checking it mechanically in your hand isn't a bad idea but if you can get it to work with the scanner and shift into Reverse fine, it's all working.
Yes, checking it mechanically in your hand isn't a bad idea but if you can get it to work with the scanner and shift into Reverse fine, it's all working.
Other than the fact that it shifts into reverse ALL THE TIME regardless of speed.
Put the scanner on the car, get driving about 10mph. Using the scanner command the Reverse Lockout Solenoid OFF. Push the Shifter over all the way gently to see if it's blocked. Not over and up into Reverse, just over into that gate. You'll know if it's in 5/6 or the Reverse Gate. You dont need the Clutch in to do this, just horizontal movement.
Do that, then command the Solenoid ON and see if there's a difference. Do this a few times it'll take two people or you can do it on your own if you're confident.