Shifter Bolt Removal
Someone molested these t 40 bolts to the point I can’t even put one on there. Got the first one out by pure luck with a pair of needle nose vise grips. This one is not moving for anything. Hit it with plenty of penetrating oil and heat and still no go. Suggestions?
How did you heat the fastener?
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The other two bolts that go into the tube don't need any. The bolt in the clamp likes to come loose over time getting heat cycled. If you use too much torque you'll break the clamp but if you use RED Loctite and correct torque it will stay. If you scared of RED Loctite because you are concerned with removal you just need a little heat. When you can smell the Loctite it's ready to come off. I prefer this method to pulling the console next year because you're finally fed up with fighting the shifter to get into first or reverse.
I also recommend maximum downward pressure with Torx, especially these big ones. Sometimes cheap driver bits that don't fit great or tools that aren't meant for this job will give you a head start on stripping the heads. Use a Torx driver on a wrench that you can put some weight behind, don't use a L-wrench or a multi-wrench-folder thing just because it's the only correct size you have. You really should have a torque wrench for that bolt on the clamp.
PS: Perfect time to upgrade that box.

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I also recommend maximum downward pressure with Torx, especially these big ones. Sometimes cheap driver bits that don't fit great or tools that aren't meant for this job will give you a head start on stripping the heads. Use a Torx driver on a wrench that you can put some weight behind, don't use a L-wrench or a multi-wrench-folder thing just because it's the only correct size you have. You really should have a torque wrench for that bolt on the clamp.
PS: Perfect time to upgrade that box.

The other two bolts that go into the tube don't need any. The bolt in the clamp likes to come loose over time getting heat cycled. If you use too much torque you'll break the clamp but if you use RED Loctite and correct torque it will stay. If you scared of RED Loctite because you are concerned with removal you just need a little heat. When you can smell the Loctite it's ready to come off. I prefer this method to pulling the console next year because you're finally fed up with fighting the shifter to get into first or reverse.
I also recommend maximum downward pressure with Torx, especially these big ones. Sometimes cheap driver bits that don't fit great or tools that aren't meant for this job will give you a head start on stripping the heads. Use a Torx driver on a wrench that you can put some weight behind, don't use a L-wrench or a multi-wrench-folder thing just because it's the only correct size you have. You really should have a torque wrench for that bolt on the clamp.
PS: Perfect time to upgrade that box.

Proceed at your own risk kids.
For me.... the loctite on the linkage.... with the frequency up until now that I have changed shifters that it not a viable answer. I have been fortunate to never have one work loose I guess, though I have never heard of them coming loose or failing either. I tend to have a strong grip and maybe my hand making them tight is not the same as someone else's. As for the hoop it goes into.... I bought a steel replacement from Texas Drivetrain to have on hand if either of mine ever present an issue in the future - or for the next time I change the clutch and want to pre-emptively install it.
Everyone has different preferences. But mine after a lot of experience trying different units is either a twisted shifterz plastic ball, or Alex McMahon (found on facebook's Corvette Track Enthusiasts page... not sure of his user name here) makes what for me is an awesome elliptical **** which is easily grabbed like a ball **** which is normal for my style but has a long base under it which can also be grabbed pistol style. A great product. He just got married two weeks ago so he could use the diversion with a few orders!













