New Brakes Question
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 38
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From: Des Peres Mo
New Brakes Question
Hi everybody, I have the wheels off my 98 vert, for new tires, painting the calipers, and general cleaning. I decided that with 36k I would go ahead and put new brakes on. Just going to go with OE parts, I have the pads, and am getting ready to remove the calipers so i can get the rotors off for turning. My question is this, I have the actual caliper off of the left rear, but the bolts for the part that carries the pads are really stubborn. Before I open the can of whoop azz, is there anything I should know? I.E. left hand threads etc.....
Thanks for any help, Doug
Thanks for any help, Doug
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Re: New Brakes Question (DougTimme)
RH threads and they shouldn't be more than 23 ft.lbs (don't recall exactly). :cheers:
Edit: Sending you a C5 torque spec. listing.
[Modified by Patches, 1:02 PM 2/15/2003]
Edit: Sending you a C5 torque spec. listing.
[Modified by Patches, 1:02 PM 2/15/2003]
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,596
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From: Atlanta GA
Re: New Brakes Question (WhiteC5Vette)
Do the rotors need turning? If they don't it is not recommended to turn them.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2002
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From: Des Peres Mo
Re: New Brakes Question (gmblack3)
That is an interesting point. I did not know that it was not recommended to turn them. I had read other posts about dealers turning rotors that were warped. Mine have very slight warpage, but I was more concerned with the actual surface of the rotor. Sounds like I should spring for new rotors. I will still need to get those bolts out though. The car is on jack stands, if it was on a lift, I could get better leverage, but they will not budge, and if I pull any harder, I am afaid I will pull the car off the stands :bb
Doug
Doug
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Atlanta GA
Re: New Brakes Question (DougTimme)
Your rotors and old pads could of just needed a good bedding in.
Read this: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
Read this: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,058
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Re: New Brakes Question (DougTimme)
GM recommends that rotors not be turned unless there is damage (scoring) to the rotors. I believe if a rotor is damaged toss it.
Bill
Bill
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,703
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From: Defending the US Constitution in Northern CA
Re: New Brakes Question (DougTimme)
Those small bolts have Loctite on them and that can make them stubborn to break loose. Put a box wrench on them and give them a sharp smack with a hammer :smash: that shock load will usually break them loose.
For about the same money, I prefer the performance friction carbon metalic "Z" pad much better than the stock pads.
For about the same money, I prefer the performance friction carbon metalic "Z" pad much better than the stock pads.
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Verdad Gallardo
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Austria
Re: New Brakes Question (gmblack3)
Do the rotors need turning? If they don't it is not recommended to turn them.
I would not turn them, you will just thin them out and it will be easier to warp them.
I would not turn them, you will just thin them out and it will be easier to warp them.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 49
From: Sun Devil Country
Re: New Brakes Question (DougTimme)
That is an interesting point. I did not know that it was not recommended to turn them. I had read other posts about dealers turning rotors that were warped. Mine have very slight warpage, but I was more concerned with the actual surface of the rotor. Sounds like I should spring for new rotors. I will still need to get those bolts out though. The car is on jack stands, if it was on a lift, I could get better leverage, but they will not budge, and if I pull any harder, I am afaid I will pull the car off the stands :bb
Doug
Doug
:thumbs:
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Re: New Brakes Question (DougTimme)
FYI:
Front:
Rotor Discard Thickness: 1.19" (30.3 mm)
Max. Allowable Lateral Runout: .002" (.06 mm)
Max Allowable Thickness Variation: .001" (.025 mm)
Min. Allowable Thickness After Refinsh: 1.205" (30.6 mm)
Rotor Thickness, New: 1.26" (32 mm)
Rear:
Rotor Discard Thickness: .965" (24.5 mm)
Max. Allowable Lateral Runout: .002" (.06 mm)
Max Allowable Thickness Variation: .001" (.025 mm)
Min. Allowable Thickness After Refinsh: .980" (24.9 mm)
Rotor Thickness, New: 1.02" (26 mm)
Front:
Rotor Discard Thickness: 1.19" (30.3 mm)
Max. Allowable Lateral Runout: .002" (.06 mm)
Max Allowable Thickness Variation: .001" (.025 mm)
Min. Allowable Thickness After Refinsh: 1.205" (30.6 mm)
Rotor Thickness, New: 1.26" (32 mm)
Rear:
Rotor Discard Thickness: .965" (24.5 mm)
Max. Allowable Lateral Runout: .002" (.06 mm)
Max Allowable Thickness Variation: .001" (.025 mm)
Min. Allowable Thickness After Refinsh: .980" (24.9 mm)
Rotor Thickness, New: 1.02" (26 mm)
Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 675
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From: Sunset Beach NC
Re: New Brakes Question (Patches)
I think that you are talking about the bolts that hold the caliper housing to the rotors. They are on with 130 ft lbs of torque. The caliper bolts are the 23 ft lbs of torque and your wife can take those off. You need to eat your wheaties with those other bolts! I had a hell of a time changing over to the eradispeeds but it can be done. You need alot of swing room for the wrench so put the car high as you can on the jack stands and just remember to be SAFE! 'Dem bolts are a muddah! :crazy:
[Modified by vetteguy98, 12:46 PM 2/16/2003]
[Modified by vetteguy98, 12:46 PM 2/16/2003]
Tech Contributor
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Posts: 41,058
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Re: New Brakes Question (vetteguy98)
When you are working with the rotors make sure they fit on the hub correctly. Check the hub for a ring of rust right where the rotor fits around it. You want to make sure there is nothing that will keep the rotor from sitting flush against the hub flange. When you put the wheels on make sure you put the lug nuts on so the wheels are flush against the hub. Then torque them to 100 lb ft. As for replacing the rotors, if it was me and the rotors aren't scored I would throw a new set of stock pads on it and go out and burnish them in. Then after letting the car set for several hours go out and abuse them a little. I have beat the hell out of stock rotors and pads and have never had a warped rotor.
Bill
Bill