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The E/M switch on my 1999 MT is switching itself. It started a few months ago with an occasional change on its own from English to Metric. Now it is much worse and changes a few times every minute. The rest of the buttons seem to work as long as the E/M is not acting up.
No codes unless I hold the button down. Then I get this code: B1532 DIC Switch 5 Signal Short to GND "E/M"
Searching through threads I have found:
Spray some electrical contact cleaner. Tried this, no change.
Hold the button down with tape. If I hold it down with my finger, it usually stops switching. Perhaps taping or jamming it in place may work somewhat.
Use a jewelers screw driver to get under it. Have not tried this.
Replace switch 5. Not yet.
Replace all the switches. Also not yet.
Before I replace switch 5 or all the switches (or find someone in the Cincinnati area to do it, I am wondering if there is something else. Is there a way to disable the Metric?
If it’s a short to ground you can check that after disconnecting the switch or just check the switch with an ohm meter or test light…if you see 5 volts on that wire it’s not being shorted to ground and you can try shaking the wires down to see if that value changes…you can use the diagnostic flow chart below and if you have a Tech 2 or similar that helps…basically you have 5 volts on each signal wire and when you press the button and that 5 volts gets pulled to ground the value changes…with the switch removed and a test light connected to ground you can pull it to ground that way…the test light is your finger pushing the button…as you can see if you hold the button down for longer than 60 seconds the DTC sets…could be a button, short to ground or a bad IPC.
Thanks C5Diag. I was hoping for the magic solution that would plug in a Tech2 and disable the E/M in the E setting.
It looks like pulling apart the dash to get to the switch is my next step.
I don’t think you can disable it with a Tech 2…first step would be to see if you have the 5 volts then shake the harness to see if the 5 volts disappears.
hey bookyoh i'm gonna send my IPC to Specmo in Michigan this fall. they claim they can fix the DIC problem. have tried numerous other people that was a no go. I also picked up a 98 ipc but I don't like the mileage difference (mine is 55k and the 98 is 105k plus). odometer would have to be changed from my 97 to the 98 to read my 55k and I would rather just have my 97 fixed. this seems to be a problem with the c5's and the fix seems to be a visit to the salvage yard. I really don't like to salvage 30 year old electronic parts as a fix. don't have the equipment or knowledge to Diag. this problem. just about all the failures with the DIC problem seem to be the bad IPC. if you have a fix this would be good info. for the forum members who have this problem.
hey bookyoh i'm gonna send my IPC to Specmo in Michigan this fall. they claim they can fix the DIC problem. have tried numerous other people that was a no go. I also picked up a 98 ipc but I don't like the mileage difference (mine is 55k and the 98 is 105k plus). odometer would have to be changed from my 97 to the 98 to read my 55k and I would rather just have my 97 fixed. this seems to be a problem with the c5's and the fix seems to be a visit to the salvage yard. I really don't like to salvage 30 year old electronic parts as a fix. don't have the equipment or knowledge to Diag. this problem. just about all the failures with the DIC problem seem to be the bad IPC. if you have a fix this would be good info. for the forum members who have this problem.
I am glad you joined the discussion. I know there is a nice video on dash removal by Dennis Ory and I have read a few posts about cluster removal, some of them seeking short cuts to get the DIC buttons out with less disassembly. Do you have any advice on getting to the DIC buttons. I am fine using wrenches but not very confident in plastic panel disassembly.
i'll be taking the IPC out this fall. I've watched the video's just like you. I'll remove the IPC and send the whole thing to Michigan along with the DIC setup. the short cuts look good. I to am good with wrenches. my spare IPC did not have the DIC buttons with it so not sure about the complete IPC removal to get them out. some very reliable sources have said most of the problems in the DIC not working right is a faulty IPC panel. I'm a little surprised there is not more R+R on this problem. I will keep you posted on this repair as I can't stand not using the DIC buttons. plastic panel removal is touch and go with me. old plastic seems to bust easy. did talk to a fella that said to check the harness from the DIC to the IPC panel as he has seen one with a short in it and was loose. my spare did come with the DIC harness and I'll try the swap before I send it away.
hey bookyoh i'm gonna send my IPC to Specmo in Michigan this fall. they claim they can fix the DIC problem. have tried numerous other people that was a no go. I also picked up a 98 ipc but I don't like the mileage difference (mine is 55k and the 98 is 105k plus). odometer would have to be changed from my 97 to the 98 to read my 55k and I would rather just have my 97 fixed. this seems to be a problem with the c5's and the fix seems to be a visit to the salvage yard. I really don't like to salvage 30 year old electronic parts as a fix. don't have the equipment or knowledge to Diag. this problem. just about all the failures with the DIC problem seem to be the bad IPC. if you have a fix this would be good info. for the forum members who have this problem.
I am hoping for a bad switch or loose connection. They all worked fine up until the e/m started flipping on its own. Even now, I can get the rest of the buttons to function most of the time. The e/m will respond some times to a button press too.
One thread says that I can get to the DIC switches by removing the center console, knee bolster, and drop the steering wheel a few inches. Need to study the service manual to see the GM procedure.
there is a member a while back that removed the IPC without removing the center console. I have it on my favorites. removing the console is not a big move but it's just one more thing that you don't have to mess with. i'll try the DIC harness from the spare 98 ipc before I remove mine completely. it's worth a try.
there is a member a while back that removed the IPC without removing the center console.
That would be interesting to see — can you share your link? Mine is almost out, just stuck on getting the connector disconnected. Ran out of morning cool yesterday. As far as I can figure the center bezel, left pillar trim, and left half of the dash pad have to be moved out of the way to get the cluster out.
i'll try to get that link to you. most nobody removes the pillar trim and any dash pads. some say they can do it in about 25 minutes. that means all day for me. i was wondering if those connectors would be a pain. i do have an advantage of having a spare (98) ipc to refer to.
E/M DIC switch acting up
