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I got B2723 code. Sometimes will start, sometimes not. Tried both keys. Can this still be the theft deterrent relay? Old posts here seem to suggest this. But none of them mention if it was intermittent. New battery. Checked connections. Cables look good. Everything else looks in good shape. 2003 60,000 miles. Sometimes security light stays on when it starts. Sometimes not.Thanks.
The Ignition switch contains a set of contacts at the very front, this contacts are wired out separately on two wires with a small connector. These two wires are the input to the BCM for the Pass Key System. I would first try some electronic contact cleaner on the keys resistor pellet and spraying some into the Ignition switch at a steep angle to reach the contacts, insert and pull the key several times wetted with the contact cleaner. Hope this helps.
The Ignition switch contains a set of contacts at the very front, this contacts are wired out separately on two wires with a small connector. These two wires are the input to the BCM for the Pass Key System. I would first try some electronic contact cleaner on the keys resistor pellet and spraying some into the Ignition switch at a steep angle to reach the contacts, insert and pull the key several times wetted with the contact cleaner. Hope this helps.
The Ignition switch contains a set of contacts at the very front, this contacts are wired out separately on two wires with a small connector. These two wires are the input to the BCM for the Pass Key System. I would first try some electronic contact cleaner on the keys resistor pellet and spraying some into the Ignition switch at a steep angle to reach the contacts, insert and pull the key several times wetted with the contact cleaner. Hope this helps.
I tried this tonight. It seems to have helped but got an occasional no crank. I started it with both keys several times. When I get the no crank just a few wiggles gets it started. Should I make a few more attempts at spraying contact cleaner? Steep angle up or down? Thank you again.
It won't hurt to try a couple more times, sometimes the contacts that press against the key loose their tension and you have to replace the Ignition switch, but if you do you just have to remove and transfer the key cylinder from your old switch to the new one.
It won't hurt to try a couple more times, sometimes the contacts that press against the key loose their tension and you have to replace the Ignition switch, but if you do you just have to remove and transfer the key cylinder from your old switch to the new one.
Thanks. I will give it another go around or two and post back.
Tried a few more times. Sometimes fires fight up, other times not. But when it doesn't I can always get it to work by messing with it. In other words remove key, go back and forth trying to start, ect. Always manage to get it started. Thinking Ignition switch but have a question. Can I just bypass the "vats" function i.e. the chip in the key and be done with it? Ive heard there is a "vats bypass" that is plug and play. Thoughts on any of the above is appreciated. Thanks again.
...but specifically...the lock cylinder, not the ignition switch itself.
Originally Posted by Corvette-Dan
Can I just bypass the "vats" function i.e. the chip in the key and be done with it? Ive heard there is a "vats bypass" that is plug and play. Thoughts on any of the above is appreciated. Thanks again.
Small detail, it's called PassKey on a C5. VATs is just a general term from other platforms, but you will not find VATs in your service manual in case you try to look it up .
Yes, you can put a resistor(s) of equivalent value in the circuit. It can be done at the BCM with the lock cylinder connector unplugged, or at the lock cylinder itself. Not worth it IMO..the lock cylinder is easy to change, and you never have to worry in the future about how you rigged something up.
...but specifically...the lock cylinder, not the ignition switch itself.
Small detail, it's called PassKey on a C5. VATs is just a general term from other platforms, but you will not find VATs in your service manual in case you try to look it up .
Yes, you can put a resistor(s) of equivalent value in the circuit. It can be done at the BCM with the lock cylinder connector unplugged, or at the lock cylinder itself. Not worth it IMO..the lock cylinder is easy to change, and you never have to worry in the future about how you rigged something up.
So you are saying lock cylinder then? I would need new keys? Sorty but this still confuses me.
The whole Ignition switch assembly contains the contact block, and the Ignition lock cylinder which is the part that houses the contacts that press against the keys resistor pellet. You can take the new cylinder and your old one to a locksmith so he can install your old key core into the new cylinder so you can use your original keys.
The whole Ignition switch assembly contains the contact block, and the Ignition lock cylinder which is the part that houses the contacts that press against the keys resistor pellet. You can take the new cylinder and your old one to a locksmith so he can install your old key core into the new cylinder so you can use your original keys.
Not true. If you order an ignition switch, it will NOT come with a lock cylinder.
I know that if you buy a Ignition switch it will not contain the lock cylinder, I was trying to explain the whole assembly, the Ignition switch, and the lock cylinder, and how the OP doesn't have to buy new keys.