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Old Aug 30, 2025 | 10:22 PM
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Default B2723 h & c

I got B2723 code. Sometimes will start, sometimes not. Tried both keys. Can this still be the theft deterrent relay? Old posts here seem to suggest this. But none of them mention if it was intermittent. New battery. Checked connections. Cables look good. Everything else looks in good shape. 2003 60,000 miles. Sometimes security light stays on when it starts. Sometimes not.Thanks.
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Old Aug 30, 2025 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette-Dan
I got B2723 code. Sometimes will start, sometimes not. Tried both keys. Can this still be the theft deterrent relay?
Nope. Lock cylinder or BCM.
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Old Aug 31, 2025 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Nope. Lock cylinder or BCM.
The actual lock itself not the switch? I will need new keys too I assume.
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Old Aug 31, 2025 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Corvette-Dan
The actual lock itself not the switch? I will need new keys too I assume.
New keys are not required with either possibly. You can troubleshoot at the BCM connector so you don't have to guess.
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Old Aug 31, 2025 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
New keys are not required with either possibly. You can troubleshoot at the BCM connector so you don't have to guess.
The connection at the switch or at the BCM? Which one is at the switch? Looks like a few. What am I looking for? Thank you.
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Old Aug 31, 2025 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette-Dan
The connection at the switch or at the BCM? Which one is at the switch? Looks like a few. What am I looking for? Thank you.
Here is the troubleshooting procedure. You will need a DMM and know how to use it.

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File Type: pdf
1999 DTC B2723.pdf (1.13 MB, 142 views)
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Old Sep 1, 2025 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Here is the troubleshooting procedure. You will need a DMM and know how to use it.
DMM. Digital multimeter? I hsve one. Can you tell me how a lock can be changed without needing new keys?
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Old Sep 1, 2025 | 12:53 PM
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The Ignition switch contains a set of contacts at the very front, this contacts are wired out separately on two wires with a small connector. These two wires are the input to the BCM for the Pass Key System. I would first try some electronic contact cleaner on the keys resistor pellet and spraying some into the Ignition switch at a steep angle to reach the contacts, insert and pull the key several times wetted with the contact cleaner. Hope this helps.
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Old Sep 1, 2025 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mmartinez
The Ignition switch contains a set of contacts at the very front, this contacts are wired out separately on two wires with a small connector. These two wires are the input to the BCM for the Pass Key System. I would first try some electronic contact cleaner on the keys resistor pellet and spraying some into the Ignition switch at a steep angle to reach the contacts, insert and pull the key several times wetted with the contact cleaner. Hope this helps.
I will try this and report back here
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Old Sep 1, 2025 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mmartinez
The Ignition switch contains a set of contacts at the very front, this contacts are wired out separately on two wires with a small connector. These two wires are the input to the BCM for the Pass Key System. I would first try some electronic contact cleaner on the keys resistor pellet and spraying some into the Ignition switch at a steep angle to reach the contacts, insert and pull the key several times wetted with the contact cleaner. Hope this helps.
I tried this tonight. It seems to have helped but got an occasional no crank. I started it with both keys several times. When I get the no crank just a few wiggles gets it started. Should I make a few more attempts at spraying contact cleaner? Steep angle up or down? Thank you again.
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Old Sep 2, 2025 | 01:08 AM
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It won't hurt to try a couple more times, sometimes the contacts that press against the key loose their tension and you have to replace the Ignition switch, but if you do you just have to remove and transfer the key cylinder from your old switch to the new one.
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Old Sep 2, 2025 | 07:38 AM
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The "ignition switch" and the "ignition switch lock cylinder" are two differnet assemblies.



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Old Sep 2, 2025 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mmartinez
It won't hurt to try a couple more times, sometimes the contacts that press against the key loose their tension and you have to replace the Ignition switch, but if you do you just have to remove and transfer the key cylinder from your old switch to the new one.
Thanks. I will give it another go around or two and post back.
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Old Sep 5, 2025 | 10:15 PM
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Tried a few more times. Sometimes fires fight up, other times not. But when it doesn't I can always get it to work by messing with it. In other words remove key, go back and forth trying to start, ect. Always manage to get it started. Thinking Ignition switch but have a question. Can I just bypass the "vats" function i.e. the chip in the key and be done with it? Ive heard there is a "vats bypass" that is plug and play. Thoughts on any of the above is appreciated. Thanks again.
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Old Sep 6, 2025 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Corvette-Dan
Thinking Ignition switch but have a question.
...but specifically...the lock cylinder, not the ignition switch itself.

Originally Posted by Corvette-Dan
Can I just bypass the "vats" function i.e. the chip in the key and be done with it? Ive heard there is a "vats bypass" that is plug and play. Thoughts on any of the above is appreciated. Thanks again.
Small detail, it's called PassKey on a C5. VATs is just a general term from other platforms, but you will not find VATs in your service manual in case you try to look it up .

Yes, you can put a resistor(s) of equivalent value in the circuit. It can be done at the BCM with the lock cylinder connector unplugged, or at the lock cylinder itself. Not worth it IMO..the lock cylinder is easy to change, and you never have to worry in the future about how you rigged something up.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
...but specifically...the lock cylinder, not the ignition switch itself.


Small detail, it's called PassKey on a C5. VATs is just a general term from other platforms, but you will not find VATs in your service manual in case you try to look it up .

Yes, you can put a resistor(s) of equivalent value in the circuit. It can be done at the BCM with the lock cylinder connector unplugged, or at the lock cylinder itself. Not worth it IMO..the lock cylinder is easy to change, and you never have to worry in the future about how you rigged something up.
So you are saying lock cylinder then? I would need new keys? Sorty but this still confuses me.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 03:43 PM
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The whole Ignition switch assembly contains the contact block, and the Ignition lock cylinder which is the part that houses the contacts that press against the keys resistor pellet. You can take the new cylinder and your old one to a locksmith so he can install your old key core into the new cylinder so you can use your original keys.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mmartinez
The whole Ignition switch assembly contains the contact block, and the Ignition lock cylinder which is the part that houses the contacts that press against the keys resistor pellet. You can take the new cylinder and your old one to a locksmith so he can install your old key core into the new cylinder so you can use your original keys.
Not true. If you order an ignition switch, it will NOT come with a lock cylinder.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette-Dan
So you are saying lock cylinder then? I would need new keys? Sorty but this still confuses me.
Sounds like you need to take it to a trusted shop partner.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 04:24 PM
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I know that if you buy a Ignition switch it will not contain the lock cylinder, I was trying to explain the whole assembly, the Ignition switch, and the lock cylinder, and how the OP doesn't have to buy new keys.
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