Hey everyone, having an issue with my master cylinder. About 6 months or so ago I got everything put back together after doing torque tube, clutch and slave. Installed a new master cylinder as well. I installed the remote bleeder for the slave. After bleeding the slave, went to move the car and it absolutely would not go into gear. I moved the car out of the way as I had some other things to work on (house stuff) and it has sat until about a week ago when I decided to get some more stuff done on the car. So, my issue is that I am not sure if I have the master cylinder installed correctly or if I have another issue going on. When master is connected to the pedal, it seems to move smoothly but it does not depress the clutch safely switch and does not let it go into gear. It seems to contact the switch, but does not depress it. Seems like it stops right at it. I don’t see anything binding, everything seems to move up and down freely. When I disconnect the master from the pedal, the pedal operates the clutch safety switch as it should. The master cylinder replaces relatively easy, so not sure if I am just overlooking something. I ordered the master as a complete filled unit from an online corvette parts supplier. It’s an oem unit. It almost seems like the master rod is just a little too long? But seems unlikely to be that with it being an oem part. I’m going to dig a little deeper tomorrow but just wanted to see if anyone has ran into a similar issue before. If not, and I’m unsuccessful in solving it I’ll try to grab some pictures tomorrow to help show what I’m dealing with. Thanks!

 

Did you shim the slave cylinder correctly?

 

Slave was shimmed to spec. I looked around to try to find the paper with my measurements to double check the numbers but can’t find it anywhere. I thought of that but I remember really taking my time and measuring several times to make sure it was correct. Even bought another caliper to double check and everything added up correctly. I did have to use a smaller shim, but cannot remember what size but the end measurements were in range.

 

That's good to hear, at least the torque tube doesn't have to come back out, let us know what the final solution is.

 

It's been a few years but I remember the safety switch had to be readjusted to the new master cylinder.
Also be sure you have the master cylinder all the way screwed into the firewall. It's hard to get a handle on it in that tight space.
Mine were all OEM and they worked fine when they were adjusted to each other.
Don't start rippin' things apart just yet...