Did he give you p/n 89060063?

 

Take it to a machine shop and ask them to weld material up and then machine it clean again. Simple fix. No need to go hunting for parts.

 

No concerns about strength loss? What dimension would they machine to?

 

Nope. Part number he gave me was 88894029.
What I'm looking into now. No machine shops in my small town though. Looking for one in Vegas that will do it. I would really like to have the original spec to go by.

 

I'm confused. That is the exact p/n in the parts manual I posted.

 

Whoops! You are correct. I scratched through the number he gave me. THAT number is 24222364.

 

That is the p/n for for an automatic transmission output shaft.

 

Makes sense. I did a search for it and the only image I could find was a straight, splined shaft very different than what I have. The diagram you provided has a valid number, although discontinued by Chevrolet <grrr!>. I found an image on GMPartsDirect and it is exactly what I need. Unfortunately, I have not found any NOS in my search. I figure there has to be a dealer SOMEWHERE that has one sitting on the shelf, collecting dust.

 

I would give RPM transmissions a call to see if they have a good used on they are willing to part with.

 

I think they did that back in post 16.
Any other performance transmission shops in the country? RPM can't be the only one. Any race series that has a lot of C5 running in it? A shop near one of those tracks probably sees more than an average amount of transmissions.
Blackjack Corvette Club is in the Las Vegas area, maybe someone there can point you to a local-ish place.
Same with Las Vegas Corvettes association.

 

Yep...missed that. Thanks.

 

Thanks. I didn't think about local clubs. I attended a couple LVCA meetings many years ago and found them to be a little uptight and "clique-y" but that was 20+ years ago. I imagine they've changed since then.

 

So this surprise just keeps on giving. Going to be another grand to fix this thing. $200 to replace the bearings and $800 for a machine shop to weld up and machine back down to specs.

I can't believe there isn't a service that specializes in this.

Corvette tax..

 

The questions remain......what is the "spec" , and what do they use for tolerance?.....bearing bore? Will they heat treat after welding? You could buy a whole used torque tube assembly for a fraction of the machine shop fee. Plenty out there to choose from.

 

There may be plenty out there but then I run the risk of buying one with the exact same failure. I still don't know what the spec is because I can barely find any information on the part beyond what's been posted here. I'm basically using the tolerance SKFengineer posted above.

I know your hung up about the specs. I would be too, if I could find them. But in lieu of that I will take an engineer's educated guess over putting the worn out part back in all day, every day.

 

I went back to #1.

What is the problem here again? You chose to rebuild when it was ok but feel the yoke is off?

Number one - just call Jason at Texas Drivetrain please. These are dirt simple parts, not rocket science and $1000 anything involved with this is comically ridiculous unless you are ordering a DriveShaftShop couplerless brand new driveshaft.

12mm rebuild kit is $550 with a lot more parts than most of us need HERE at Texas Drivetrain Performance

The 10mm costs $125 more.

Labor to knock some bearings in and bolt on the new couplers and input shaft should be on the outside a 2 hour job from a billing shop. It's really one hour or less if you're handing them the torque tube. These are not rocket science parts. Hammer. Block of wood. Unbolt or unspring it, knock it out, unbolt the couplers, knock or press the bearings out, slap new ones on and reverse process.

 

Definitely a possibility...but I have never seen one like yours in 20 years. I have only rebuilt 8 torque tubes myself, but I would be curious to get feedback from shops like RPM that have been doing this daily for the last 15+ years. I'm sure with patience and investigation, a good used part can be confirmed before purchase.

What tolerance? No specifics were given by SKF Engineer just obvious feedback that there should be a light press fit.

Hung up? Only because no measurements have been taken on the shaft to make an educated guess...... weighting that against the bearing tolerances. One bearing that should be a suitable cross reference for the the factory bearings is SKF 6008 2RSJEM. SKF has a great site with all the information you will ever need. https://www.skf.com/us/products/roll...-ball-bearings

 

Common automotive or industrial sense says if a bearing is loose enough to flop around on the shaft, something is F'd up.
In this case, it's obliviously not the bearing! Having specs would be interesting, but not that important.
As for the relative merits of having the old one repaired Vs sourcing a replacement... up to the owner.
I'd shop around for a used one, myself...
Good luck, and let us know how it comes out!
Edit:
Another option might be to find a bearing with the correct OD but smaller ID, and have the shaft turned down to match.

 

Hopefully he took it apart by now and found the smoking gun and give us an update. If he didnt we'll never know.

 

Did you read the posts? Or better yet, even look at the photos I posted? They very clearly show the problem is more than just bearings. And I did talk to Texas. They referred me to RPM, who can't help me either.
I reached out to Unidrive, the original supplier, last week in an attempt to get the original specs but have yet to receive a reply.

I get where you're coming from. I really do. I would LOVE to have a design sheet that lists the specs for this part. But if I can't even get a reply from the OEM, I don't know where else to go. And it is glaringly obvious to me the hub itself is worn. I mean, the photo I posted above shows significant galling and an obvious lip where that inner race press fit. Sure, specs would be nice, but if you can see something is fkd up with the naked eye, I don't understand the pushback.
I thought about your options. My reasoning of not attempting to find another torque tube is the hassle of inspection. MN6/M12 cars are a little harder to come by than the auto cars, and this part is different between the two. Las Vegas is decent enough size but it's not like these things are filling up junk yards. Sourcing a used one would likely involve either travel there to inspect or a sight-unseen purchase which could end up with me purchasing a torque tube with a hub that is equally unuserviceable.

I did consider the option of a smaller inside diameter although I didn't research it very much. Since the bearings are retained by snap rings, the amount that could be turned off the original hub would be pretty minimal to retain the grooves. Maybe there are bearings with an ID difference in the thousandths but I didn't bother checking.