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I have literally gone price for price in posts before on this question. The blower sounds more expensive because it comes in one lump sum. But doing everything for a H/C kit which most do end up doing while it is cracked open adds up to be on par. Or it has within the last 3 to 5 years. I wager both options have similarly gained in expense in the current market. I should note that the cost of labor is presumed to be significantly higher for a H/C kit in the instance that an owner does not do the work themselves and pays a shop but I have never included labor in my comparisons.
To me, this is a no brainer. If I had it to do over again I'd go supercharger every time. Stock LS bottom ends are pretty stout. A good tuner is very important in any build, whether NA OR FI. But in a FI engine, especially with a stock bottom end, a really good tuner is absolutely essential to reliability. The stock rods and crank are fine. The stock hypereutectic pistons will also handle a lot of power. What they wont handle well is detonation. Forged pistons are much stronger and are able to withstand less than ideal tunes. I have a friend who has an '02 C5 Z06 with the A&A kit. Totally stock internals in the motor. He's had it on his Z06 for over 15 years with absolutely no problems. A few years ago he did install a performance cam, and it now makes over 600whp. Still no problems. Find a really good tuner and your stock internals will live a long time......
I would recommend a well valve event timed camshaft to get more horsepower and torque.
This does not have to exhibit bad driveability with excessive overlap, however the stock camshaft is weak and it holds back all these cars.
If it is a decent camshaft you will not see too much degradation of fuel economy or range, it will sound better at idle and will not cause heat issues under the hood.
My car is a 1999 manual transmission car. I live in NY and will have to pass smog inspection.
It is a weekend cruiser.
My budget is 6K, but I am flexible.
Thanks.
have a 99 also in westchesterNY they don’t smoge check or computer check you. Aslong as the brakes work and the lights you pass.
I’ve had mine for a full year and only did a full exhaust no tune yet. To be honest I say stay in this area The car is 25-26 years old. If you start tossing a lot of power at it your wallet will feel it. The car is light relatively quick. Doo full bolt ons. So intake manifold intake and full exhaust with a tune and it will be more then enough. If you want a fast *** car to race b58s and hell cats parts will break and cost you money
If the 1999 is not fast enough, sell it and buy a 2003-04 ZO6. Look for one with headers and a tune. You will have more power and stock reliability.
Or you can put an LS6 in your car add headers and a tune and have a reliable car that is dependable and mostly stock. If you do not have access to
a lift and cannot do at least some of your own work you can dig a deep hole in your pocket before you know it.
I put REDUX ITBS my 99 FRC, and nothing else. Got 30+ hp at the rear wheels, and sound and looks come with them..Very satisfied
with the mods. No change in MPH, but a lot more torque.
This is the best answer. There is nothing else even close to the HP/$ of a V-3 Si which is CARB approved. Look at the A&A Corvette site. They are a forum Sponsor. https://www.aacorvette.com/c5superchargers.html
I put REDUX ITBS my 99 FRC, and nothing else. Got 30+ hp at the rear wheels, and sound and looks come with them..Very satisfied
with the mods. No change in MPH, but a lot more torque.
Probably depends on what you're going to do with the car.
I really wanted a centrifugal. Had a long talk with A&A and it was going to be a crap-shoot as to how the motor would hold up. It might be good or it might not. But, my car is almost exclusively used for HPDE. Was told it really needs forged pistons and properly gapped rings for reliability during extended WOT on the track.
I ended up doing cam, headers, springs, pushrods (larger Manton w/restricted flow), trunnions (CHE), timing chain, chain damper, injectors, and tune by Doug at ECS. Did it all myself except for the tune. Did not replace the heads or lifters. That was back in 2012. Car still runs great after all these years and many hours on the track. When / if this motor gets toasted, it will be replaced with LS7.
LS7? Or an LS based 427? I think people often mix the terms but mean the latter. I'd be on an LS2 or LS3 block base and use the rec port LS3 heads if it were an HPDE car vs LS7 or LSx build. I can vouch the machine work to clearance for a CCW crank is a low investment and per those who run them competitively earns you more years between bearing replacements.
If I wasn't doing track-day stuff with my car, I would have gone with a centri supercharger like A&A's kit. It's the best bang for the buck. But most people who try that seem to run into cooling issues, because power creates heat, and the intercooler reduces the effectiveness of the already-marginal radiator. And tracks give a lot more opportunity to use power than streets.
For naturally aspirated upgrades, you basically have a choice between a bunch of outside-the-engine upgrades that each add a little bit of power (headers, intake manifold, throttle body, air filter, air bridge, etc, etc), or a cam that gives a lot more potential, plus all those little upgrades. I mostly depends on your budget. And the cam choice depends on how much low-speed roughness/surging/weakness you're willing to sacrifice in order to get more power at higher RPM.
For HPDE... I figure 400 rear wheel to 500 is about perfection and probably more than most can use fully. I know I can't. I just drive like a bay out of hell on summer Sunday mornings out through the hills. I agree that 20 minute sessions of wot would pack a lot of heat into your system and add about 4k in cooling upgrades between oil and coolant, let alone any aero mods to move heat from under the hood.
I put REDUX ITBS my 99 FRC, and nothing else. Got 30+ hp at the rear wheels, and sound and looks come with them..Very satisfied
with the mods. No change in MPH, but a lot more torque.
Just for giggles, did the ITB setup come with any sort of air filter setup?
For HPDE... I figure 400 rear wheel to 500 is about perfection and probably more than most can use fully.
Full throttle in third gear can make the rear end step out a little bit, if the steering wheel isn't pointed straight ahead (with endurance-ish 200tw tires). It's a fun problem to have... It is only an issue in a couple places at my local track, and I just got into the habit of easing into the throttle coming out of those turns. My heart skipped a beat the first time it happened though.
There's a couple slower corners where even lower-powered cars can get sideways if you use 2nd gear and stomp it, and that's kinda fun since it's at 30-40 mph. But I am not at a level when I can take pleasure in getting sideways at 75+.
Just for giggles, did the ITB setup come with any sort of air filter setup?
Yes ,but they were quite restrictive, so I went with the old school fine mesh screens. There are larger filters that might be used like the big 4-cylinder motorcycles of the 70- had. or custom make an aluminum oval box to contain an appropriately sized oval f
ilter, but since I wasn't worried about dirt so much I used what you see.
Last edited by PapaFred; Jan 3, 2026 at 10:32 AM.
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