Clutch grind when hot
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 104
Likes: 10
From: Alabama
Clutch grind when hot
Hey guys, i’ve recently been experiencing a grinding noise when taking off from a stop (reverse or first) at the clutch bite point, that continues even when clutch is fully
pressed back in until RPMs drop back to idle.and along with that a grind when the car is revved in any gear with the clutch fully pressed in. it seems to only do this when hot. Master/slave/pilot bushing/clutch assembly is brand new with maybe 1200 miles on it. i’m at a loss honestly. i’m assuming it’s the clutch not fully disengaging but i’m unsure of how to fix this.
pressed back in until RPMs drop back to idle.and along with that a grind when the car is revved in any gear with the clutch fully pressed in. it seems to only do this when hot. Master/slave/pilot bushing/clutch assembly is brand new with maybe 1200 miles on it. i’m at a loss honestly. i’m assuming it’s the clutch not fully disengaging but i’m unsure of how to fix this.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5,954
Likes: 711
Hey guys, i’ve recently been experiencing a grinding noise when taking off from a stop (reverse or first) at the clutch bite point, that continues even when clutch is fully
pressed back in until RPMs drop back to idle.and along with that a grind when the car is revved in any gear with the clutch fully pressed in. it seems to only do this when hot. Master/slave/pilot bushing/clutch assembly is brand new with maybe 1200 miles on it. i’m at a loss honestly. i’m assuming it’s the clutch not fully disengaging but i’m unsure of how to fix this.
pressed back in until RPMs drop back to idle.and along with that a grind when the car is revved in any gear with the clutch fully pressed in. it seems to only do this when hot. Master/slave/pilot bushing/clutch assembly is brand new with maybe 1200 miles on it. i’m at a loss honestly. i’m assuming it’s the clutch not fully disengaging but i’m unsure of how to fix this.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,117
Likes: 793
From: Espanola New Mexico
First of, did you do the work yourself or paid a shop? If you had a shop do the work and they gave you a warranty I would take your car back to them. The only other thing is to remove the inspection cover on the bell housing and take a look inside.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 104
Likes: 10
From: Alabama
I did all the work myself, car is a manual swap. what exactly do i need to look for inside the bell housing ? slave travel ?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,117
Likes: 793
From: Espanola New Mexico
Having a secound person hold the clutch in while you view the clutch to verify that the clutch is indeed disengaged would be nice. My thoughts are that the clutch material expands when it is warmed up, it might mean that the throw out bearing was shimed to much, educated guess on my part.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 104
Likes: 10
From: Alabama
Having a secound person hold the clutch in while you view the clutch to verify that the clutch is indeed disengaged would be nice. My thoughts are that the clutch material expands when it is warmed up, it might mean that the throw out bearing was shimed to much, educated guess on my part.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5,954
Likes: 711
Funny thing is, i didn’t shim it at all. TOB and slave we’re just put in as is no shims used. that’s what’s so weird about it, i am wondering if maybe my fluid is getting too hot? I should preface this by saying all the hydraulics are oem, but it’s a Mcleod RST clutch. it didn’t start doing it until 800 or so miles and slowly got worse. checked fluid and it was nearly black. i used dot 3 fluid so im wondering if it overheated and got air in the system. i used dot 3 again when i changed the fluid a couple days ago, still pretty clear but im wondering if thats the issue.
